Keep going and let us updated! Good luck!

 

Are you familiar with them? Any idea how I could get rid of the inconsistencies, is the cure time too long? Or is that jsut from not cleaning it fully?(I did leave it under uv lamp way too long I think)

 

Just a little bit. Try to tweak a little bit on curing times, may they are too high. Also ensure that you're using the full resolution of your display. And try! For sure this little babies are far easier than FDM ones to use

 

Awesome!

 

Might start with something like that, will be much easier to tinker on an existing machine and try to improve it than go for a more advanced one from scratch

I'm guessing i can still upgrade the lcd backlight later on but just as a ballpark figure, what would the cure time be with a stock screen?

Just need to find some good resource to read up on for the vat and build platform, coming from the FDM printing side those are the parts that i know least about so far If you know any good resources, please let me know

Thanks for the help!

 

Here's latest on the Instagram post by mattmann • Apr 7, 2017 at 3:07pm UTC

 

Awesome, already found an EU supplier of FEP film and designign a flexvat for the ipad screen size

1 other thing, i've seen all the printers usually have a vivid colored acrylic cover, like the bright orange on form 2 and couple of others, green on some, etc. Im guessing thats not just for aesthetics?

Do you need a special kind of cover over your printer / special kind of acrylic?

 

That is also a Thing that i keep searching right now.
What Material will block near or everything of the UV Light?

The Formlabs use this Orange and a few other "cheaper" use red.
Maybe i should get some glow in the Dark Material to print with my FDM and test it with a few "hopefully" cheap Acryl Glases.

 

Was checking a bit and aparently acrylic wont pass much uv light as it is, amber/red especially

"The results show that this material has 0% UV transmittance for 200~400 nm."

Hopefully that will work for daylight curr as well

 

1 Other Thing.
Does it matter how far away the LEDs are from the Display?
If yes how far should they be?

 

What you think about something like this? TX Aluminium Heatsink Cooling Fan+44mm Lens 60 degree For 50W 100W LED Chip (Heatsink+60 degree lens) - - Amazon.com

 

What is the latest thought on using this 15.6" 4k panel?

 

Are any of you familiar with this tech? it sounds similar to what you are trying to achieve. Technology – Structo

 

long time no seen evilcc66
fyi, the printer was indeed of poor quality. One day for some month ago i came back to my workshop and it was messed up with resin all over the floor during a lack of construction of the printer. Calling their support was no luck... So i took a break again.

now im thinking of redesign it using some updates from their community-members and pick some information from here. what i need to do is replace the lead screw, pcb and screen and reuse the shell....

Your concept of printer, have you succeeded to print with the setup or do you have a suggestion of replacement screen? thanks for advice!

 

Hi TeeKay, what supplier do you find for Ipad screen size ??

Thanks

 

Fepsheet.com has custom sizes you can order.

 

Thanks TeeKay !!

 

Hi,

You guys mentioned my previous iPad printer (on page 5) in this thread.
Seem like there is some good information here on this page.

If I could interest you in my latest printer
Mini Daylight SLA - Kvistholm

This is a cheaper and more minimal printer in every way.
Less electronics and so on.

Ask me here if you like to know more.

 

Tjena och tackar för att du hoppar in och kommenterar samt introducerar din nya maskin.

Perhaps and if you don't mind, create a new thread with in depth details on how you made everything work. I am sure there are people who want to build but are not as skilled as you. I know I would love an in depth build thread. If you do, please post a link to the thread in this thread.

I want to try replicating your Mini Daylight SLA.

1. What resins do you use ?
2. What is the Z resolution and is it possible to run it layer free or is blank/black periods necessary for new resin to flow into the cavity ?

Oneminde

 

Hi,

I'm affraid I will not be able to post a step by step instruction.
But I guess there are others that have done that.

My point is to try introduce what hardware I used so that someone who is unsure what to order, knows what could work.
I will however as I said try to answer some questions, starting with yours.

1. What resins do you use?
>> Photocentric Daylight Resins - link

2. What is the Z resolution and is it possible to run it layer free or is blank/black periods necessary for new resin to flow into the cavity ?
>> There is no fixed Z resolution, you can set what ever you like. There is a trade-off with time as always.
>> No, it's not a continuous printing solution. To do that you need a quite expensive VAT material, which also has it's limitations.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Since I've not used Nano DLP yet, do you mind sharing the layer settings you use unless it is recommended settings from Photocentric ?

 

Hi,

I don't have close at hand but a 50 mic layer cures at 45 seconds.
Vertical lift I use 5 mm.

 

I've been printing with FDM printers for close to two years now, and have recently been bitten by this SLA bug. I've considered just buying one of the Wanhao D7's, but I'm the kind that likes to spend four times as much building my own (that may or may not work)...

I just wanted to say that I've enjoyed reading through your thread, evilc66... I hope you have success with your project, and thanks for all of the information you've offered so far!