@Elmo Clarity Will you post your modified glide bodies? I'd like to have a go with using the TR8*2 nut that came with my rods rather than making & tapping a nut out of delrin or nylon. I realize it's for 20x40 but I can narrow them down to fit 20x20 again, that's about the level of my 3D design skills at the moment.

 

I could apply the modifications to the 20x20 version since that part isn't effected by the width. However, the brass nuts used are not universal so the mods may not work for your nut. I can try getting the OpenSCAD file cleaned up and posted later. It contains variables you can set to match your nut. Not sure how quickly I can get to it, but should have it done by the end of the day.

 

Thank you sir, that would be great. No hurry as my current printer is down until my new Bowden fittings arrive. I threw a caliper on my brass nut, it looks like the holes are spaced at 11.5 mm center to center.

 

Took a quick look at the code and was able to knock out a quick change for this. This is only for the right side. The left one will be about the same. You can play around with it and see if it works for you. I haven't been able to test out all the variables so it might need some tweeking.

 

Forgot to include the base STL that script works with.

 

Here is the script for the left glide. I tested out some of the parameters and the NutLength does adjusts the length of the mounting screws, it doesn't change the height. So don't change that. It shouldn't really be an issue.

I am including all 4 files just for completeness.

 

I am using an anti-backlash nut on my printer.

 

Thanks Elmo, I'll dig into this tonight. Cheers!

 

Keith, have you seen any problems with the heated bed shifting because of fast Y axis movement? I can see some shifting if I push on the plate because of screws/spring holding it up. Might have to find a different mounting solution with the heaver bed.

 

Double up your springs. Your heat plate is twice as heavy as a normal one. Or go to a double nut lock in place arrangement?

 

I switched to some heavier springs and still have some play. Will probably end up using the double nuts.

 

Looks like a nice build I'm struggling with an A frame reprap so it's time for an upgrade...

How does this handle PETG printing? Any special considerations to be made during the build?

 

Keith, do you have any pictures showing the routing of the wires?

 

I print eSun PETG at 235C with an e3D Lite6 that has the lined barrel with no problems.

 

I was meaning the physical location of the wire routing. How the wires from the Z and X axis motor are routed around the extrusions. I think I have the carriage wiring route figured out and some ideas for Z and X, but wanted to see how you did it. The instructions were not all that clear about those parts.

 

Thanks for the responses regarding the PETG filament, never used it but thought it would be worth a try.
In regards to the hot end, the genuine 1.75mm E3D ends have a PTFE liner that terminates in the heat break - any reason you use a PTFE lined barrel? Unless I'm confused and I'm actually talking about the same thing?

 

It has been a while since I assembled my e3d Lite6 hotend, but from the cut away image about half way down the page in the following link, that liner goes all the way to the brass nozzle.

Lite6

 

There is a difference in the tube between the lite and regular V6. The lite is make for lower temperatures because the tube goes further. The regular can do higher temperatures because it stops at the top of the heat break and is not directly exposed the the nozzle temperature.

 

Hello Keith, thank You for your previous support.
I'm starting to build 300x300x300 TrueUP. Modified some parts to fit 300x300: Y Mount Bracket, Y Calibration Jig, PSU Hangers and PSU Spacers to use with my 24V PSU. Want to publish this remix on thingiverse with build manual in Russian, if you don't mind. All (c) will be in place.

Searched a 8mm nylon rod, don't find it near and got 15m of trimmer line 1,6mm diameter. Printed Z bushings with it. Cut them to tight fit. They fit pretty well. 15m of line costs me about 1,5$.

And, again, have some questions:

In BOM there is a O ring, is it a standard rubber O ring from water supply systems?

M8 Nylon nut(not the nut with nylon insert) has some play on M8 threaded rod. Is this normal and fake nut will solve this, or i need to search more tight nuts?

I will use MKS SBase instead of MKS Base. It has some major differences in USB/SD/Eth/PWR connectors and don't fit with power switch.

Also i want to use Titan extruder with e3d volcano, and, in future, swap standard e3d heat-sink with Titan Aero. Saw a bondtech extruder mount here. I think it will fit for titan with standard heat-sink, but don't think it will fit Aero.

Except those parts, already modified by me, what i will need to modify for 300x300x300?

Your design is to good, to brake it, but my design skills are not so good and don't allow me to modify yours to fit with my hardware.
If you can help me to fit SBase and Titan Aero in. I'd really appreciate it.

Attached MKS stl and jpg with mount holes.
MKS SBase stl i got from here.

EDIT:
And i want to use SSR relay to power hot bed directly from PSU, i know how to wire and config my electronics for that, but as always can't modify your design for that, to stupid for this type of things atm.

 

I am working on a 300x300x300 version. I started a build here (eTrue Glide) to document it. I am using the Titan Extruder.

 

My WIP TrueUP Glide 300x300x300 by Reanimator2k if you interested in my attempts to learn how to draw in Fusion 360.

Do you have/like to share X Carriage for e3d Titan?

EDIT: Your build is using 20x40 X Rail, my uses 20x20.

 

I have done all my design in OpenSCAD. Fusion is on my list to learn when time permits. I used 20x40 because I was reusing parts from another printer, but increasing the size, the extra strength.

I can post what I have for the carriage tonight. Since it uses the standard Titan mounting, you can use both the Aero and Volcano with it.

 

Thanks, Elmo. I can import in Fusion 360 in various formats, but even stl will be good enough.

I have an unfinished build of 20x40 printer.

I start to search a simple and fast build because i can't fix, calibrate, level, fix, calibrate, level .... my Wanhao i3 anymore. Want to build fast, reliable printer that just print. Never succeeded to print ABS parts (needed to complete my build of core xy) on i3 without a big bag of magic and luck.

 

Here is the carriage I am using. It is very simple. It has two parts, the carriage and a belt clamp. The clamp is held in position with square M3 nuts and M3 Bolts.

 

If you want to discuss this more, it might be better to take it over to my build so as not to clutter up Keith's.