Hi I have bought the same spindle and plan on using the x pro 3. Where have you mounted it?

 

Hi Ryan Thank you. Are these parts available anywhere. I have no way of making them.
Ken

 

@Ryan Lock

So, I think I ordered my OX last August, What upgrades have been made to the Ooznest OX since then? Is all the cable shielded? I am just curious as once in a while my machine will start by moving to the first cutting position and then stop. I have to restart the job, or sometimes it does nothing and I am thinking shielded cable and usb may be a way forward.

Incidentally, I noticed someone has a Henry/hetty hooked up to their ox. Have you seen these home build cyclone separators?



The cheap one came one top, so I bought a Chinese cyclone and a plastic drum and I am going to build one. Poor Hetty gets a battering.

 

@Matt-Sparks

V Channel Blanking plates? I have just double belted and I am looking for a neat solution to clamping, yours seems the easiest but it I can do it neater, I'd like to. I've looked for your blanking plates but can't see anything, maybe you are calling them something different?

Thanks

 

Any of you guys use Mach3?

Would you be kind enough to share your Motor Tuning and setup Settings.

I have the OX 1000 x 1500

 

@Ryan Lock

I received the ferrets, I assume the single 8mm goes on the z axis, which end?

 

@Ryan Lock

Thanks. I didn't see the writing till I had posted!

 

Sorry another question,

I have the cable trays all connected, and want all the cables to come over to one side and through the y axis cable chain,

Is the a tidy way of feeding the wire from the motor on the far side (slave), i thought about passing it through the track underneeath the x axis cable tray but the t-nut is in the way?

 

Hi Ryan, I was wondering about the Ferrets in my kit. Where do they get set for each? Any help much appreciated. Order in for more GT3 belt, think I'll double belt from the outset!

 

I literally just emailed you the same question.
So ferrites don't have to be both ends?

 

So whilst installing the double belt mod I looked around for double belt tensioners.

Couldn't find any and I've looked high and low so I decided to design and 3D print one myself.

The simplest solutions are often the best! Whilst wandering through Wilkinsons to get some brackets I stumbled across some knock down fittings aka modesty blocks

If you drive a slightly oversized bolt through them they give a nice thread. The top block has an oversized hole with no thread so it tightens easily. The bolts sticking out are currently a bit long but with a smaller bolt and a plate on the end of the bolt they will tension nice and evenly. I had to recess the back of the block out to go over the existing bolt heads

 

Yeah, I didn't stick it down . Double sided is great stuff but if you screw up sticking it down it's an absolute pain in the ***.

 

thanking you

 

Evening @Ryan Lock

I have been reading various and i see that its wise to add a fuse and a TVS between the OX power and the xpro v3

Is that the same with the full kit (using provided 24v power), still needed? I have what I need, thought I'd ask.

Also, re my question on fast decay, my v3 seems to have 2 columns with three pins. i cant work out from the piccie on the back which pins to jump still. If you have a picture of such, it would be amazing.

Thanks in advance!

Rob

 

Here's chance for me to give back to the forum.

Rob:
I needed to do the same thing for my machine to run better. At the local hobby shop I purchased a small, battery operated solder gun that came with some very thin solder wire. I added dab of solder between the first two contacts as indicated on the schematic for fast decay. After I did that, the machine runs beautifully. I've attached before and after photos with a mock up of where to put the solder.

 

Thanks man. Wow. So I solder the back of the board! I was thinking it was on the front side of the board and putting a little 2.5mm plastic jumper over the pins!

I'll break out the solder iron. The picture. On the back makes more sense now too!

Thx for helping me out.

Rob

 

You're welcome. Ryan Lock from OOZnest has been very helpful to me getting my 1500x1500 up and running. He told me about the fast decay soldering. Your solder dots don't need to be as small or neat as my photo retouching dots. Just don't let any solder touch the right most contacts.

 

Got it. Thx for the help. I've been putting limit switches on the machine today and they will need a bit of solder on the switches so I'll break out the iron! And the magnifying glass!

 

I got some of these limit switches from Ryan at Ooznest. Rather than solder the wires onto the switches, I was thinking of putting some connectors on. They seem to be 3.5mm connections, but I cant find anything suitable. Can any of you more experienced peeps think of an elegant way to connect these without solder. I couldnt find any 3.5mm crimps, but a small plug onto the com, no and nc would be lovely. Scared of my solder iron!

Rob

 

Cool thx Ryan.

I'll get some shielded cable and solder them for now or maybe solder on a connector with wires. I shouldn't need to pull them about too much anyway. I'm over thinking it all probably.