First post, so thought I'd drop in the Ooznest thread. Ive bought the kit from Ryan and have built it over the last few evenings. Great, quick support from Ryan when needed, can recommend using Ooznest if youre in the UK.

N00b question..Just how "loose" should the X & Y mounts be when installed without motors.. Should you be able to push them away and watch them roll or should they stop when you stop moving them?

My set up is running ok for a first attempt, I think. Drawing things with Sharpies is fun, but I do get a fair bit of noise on the Y axis (wondering if belts or wheels are too tight) and I see a fair bit of vibration up on the X motor when its doing shorter steps, the whole Z assembly vibrates.

And I'm keen to understand wheere the Ferite motor shields are best placed, havent found that out yet!

Any tips for watch outs much appreciated. I've only read through 83 pages of this thread so far.

Looking forward to learning from everyone here and finding out how CNC is going to help me make more arcade machines!

Rob

 

I usually say that when you turn each wheel you want it the point where you want some friction to be there.

Regarding the noise, this could be due to the xPro, they now come defaulted in Mixed decay mode, but fast decay mode does make the motors run smoother.

Ryan

 

First I would like to add my recommendation to yours for Ooznest in the UK. They have been a great help to me too, sorting out a few issues. Many thanks to them.
Adjusting the X & Y mounts. I've found the best way is to use a finger method on every wheel. Using two fingers and a spanner to adjust the concentric nut, gently rock each wheel until you feel just a little friction as it touches the rail. By doing this you can make sure each mounting wheel has the same adjustment (feel) and that all the wheels are being used equally. Remember also the wheels are adjusted in pairs across the rail. Happy CNCing.

 

Thanks Jim, this is exactly the way I have done it, makes sense to feel each one for tension.

I want to put my xpro v3 setup with fast decay, to see the difference, but for the life of me, I cant find a good quality image or diagram of the jumper settings. I know its on the back of the card, but I cant really see that properly! (Too terrified to make mistakes with jumpers yet!)

x x
x x
x x

If thats the pins as I look at the card from the front with USB on the right, I am assuming its two jumpers across the bottom pins

x x
o o
o o

Any help much appreciated! I'm off to make a control box!

 

Hi,

On the v3, there is 3 columns 4 rows of jumpers all unsoldered. And when you take the board off the back it is pretty self explanatory what to do. I can't remember exactly off the top of my head, but i think it is the middle and left column you need to jumper each row on for fast decay.

Best Regards

Ryan Lock

 

Curious why the Openbuilds Parts Store does not carry OX Plates

 

I get that ,but as long as there is an effort made to make it as universal as possible. whats the harm, its still using Openbuilds components to make it all move. is it really that different then the

NEMA 23 Reduction / Stand Off Plate

or the

Build Plate

 

Was looking at the top of this post and there is a place that sales aluminum OX sides. Does anyone know if he still offers these and how much the shipping would be?
Not much info in the site other than price seems kind sketchy

 

Rick I have a little problem . I have a xpro v3 with nema 23 motors wired up. it is all on desk and not installed on my xlarge. when I test it out the cloned y motor keeps shutting down. I have adjusted current and nothing helps. any ideas?
does not matter what one of my motors I put on cloned y it will not run long.

 

Hi everyone, I'm gonna build the 75x50 ox cnc, at the moment I got all the v-slot aluminum extrusions, I need to cut them to length however at the moment I'm restricted to my smartphone to browse the site and can't view the drawing files. I need the exact measurements for each rail, besides the 75 cm and the 50 cm rails what's the exact length of the other pieces ?

Thanks a bunch.

 

Hi @Mark Carew,

Please let me know what post processor option you're using for your toolpaths in ArtCAM. I would like to know which post processor is compatible with the OpenBuilds OX machine, which is driven by the Spark Concepts Arduino xPro V2. Thank you very much for your help.

 

Many thanks for sharing this information.

 

I'm looking at turning this into a 4'X8' build has anyone tried it and if so what kind of problems have you had if any. Would you use drive screws or do you think the belt will work that big?

 

The 4ft width is not a real problem. Belt drive will work on that length, but Acme or Ball Screws will be better. For 8ft there's no question in my mind that you would need ballscrews, there's too much stretch in a GT2 belt, in my opinion. The other issue may be finding 8tf long V-slot. The OB parts store has 1.5 meter V-Slot in stock, but I have not seen 8ft pieces anywhere.

 

The 8' 8020 is not problem for me I have a friend making me a set of 2' steel keys for the side V slots and then plan to pull it all together with all-thread using 2 4' pieces.
now just need to make mounts for bearings and ball screw.

 

watch out for screw whip and rotational inertia with long screws. Rack and pinion is generally more cost effective for routers in longer travels. Using wide belts could also work but you may want to step it up to a 15mm wide belts and also add in a "double belt" system too.

 

why, when pocket right side like this ?

 

Well, someone is making some of it work: SprayPrinter "climbs walls" to spray colour graffiti. Check a recent article here : SprayPrinter's latest graffiti robot hits new heights

Here's a YouTube of the prototype already at work :



Not so ridiculous after all, eh ? No need to etch through layers of paint, it uses colour "dots" to end up with an image that makes sense from a distance.

Add a laser to etch the surface for added depth. I will admit, routing/milling the surface would require that the device can hang on firmly as it digs into the media. Gecko like grip is already being shown as workable for a few other uses (ex: tires which don't slip on wet surfaces).

Beyond the imagination, it takes someone to actually go out and try it. Think of the person who first used the wheel ...



So the PoleOX ... or even your CNC rice grain engraver could be done. By the way, how the heck do they engrave anything ** BY HAND ** on a grain of rice anyways ?! I have trouble keeping the screwdriver on the screw head ! ;(

 

Been a bit off helath wise, but still ticking. Time just seems to fly.

I'll be catching up on things with myOX, the C-Beam and OpenBuilds.

I started to play with 3D jobs more recently, instead of just 2D and 2.5D. But those jobs can take forever and a day to run ... so better have a steady power source as I ran into a few issues of brown outs. Don't start the long jobs if a storm is brewing !!