Here is what my final settings are. I've now run them for about 25 hours of cutting with no chattering or broken bits. I'm getting very nice cuts. Dewalt Router at highest RPM setting (27,000) 38 ipm feed .015 depth of cut. Material: 5052 Aluminum This is the bit LMT Onsrud 63-610 Solid Carbide Upcut Spiral O Flute Cutting Tool, Inch, Uncoated (Bright) Finish, 22 Degree Helix, 1 Flute, 2.0000" Overall Length, 0.1250" Cutting Diameter, 0.2500" Shank Diameter: Spiral Router Bits: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Any reason for using 5052 instead of 6061? are you forming parts into boxes or something after the cut? With the dewalt set at max I hear most people don't get too much life out of brushes at wide open throttle, did you have to replace them after 25 hours yet? Looks like you should get about 100-180 hours according to this thread.. for what it's worth, something to consider Dewalt thread
Yes, some of my parts I'm bending so that is why I use 5052. Good to know about the Dewalt, I've got to be getting close to those numbers in total time of usage. I run it alot. I guess if these start going out I will have to get a regular spindle or do you know of other options?
yeah a brush-less spindle would be the best option, any universal motor (all the trim routers I know of) with brushes will have a short life at high RPM's, brushes are not too expensive though you have to change them before you get arcing and damage the commutator.
I really appreciate the heads up on this. I hadn't thought about it, just figured these things would run longer than that. Do you have a link to a good brushless spindle? Thanks
I just checked and the brushes appear to have a lot of life left. However, I ordered a replacement pack to have on hand. They are very easy to replace so it's a cheap and easy consumable to be factored into the process.
Hi thanks for sharing your build it is most useful. I have a question have you found any issue in relation to back lash with the threaded rods or are you using acme rods. The reason i ask is i'am looking to make quite small scale model items and struggling to find any information on whether these choices impact accuracy do i need ball screws ? I will be working in 1/14 to as small as 1/35th scale so some detail will be quite small Thanks Mark
Hi Thanks for your useful information I have looked at the small machines with a brush-less motor as well. Think in the end I many need two machines one for lager items such as 800mm long chassis parts and a smaller machine for small detailed work. The search continues which is good as I want to make the correct purchases first time, Thanks again mark
Thanks for the post, Journeyman. I'm building a 2XL very much like yours and it's a big help. I also have a Dewalt router and will order spare brushes as well. I'm working designs to swap out the router for a 3D printer head and a 3D scanner head. I increased the Z dimension to 0.5M for printing and scanning, but will drop the X axis to a preset at 0.25M when I'm cutting with the router. Heated bed for the 3D printer seems to be the main challenge at this point. A couple of questions ... 1) What are X/Y dimensions of your Aluminum plate, and where did you buy? Was it 6061 Al? 2) What is the inner dimensions of your cable chain, and where did you buy? Looks like it works well, lays flat. Thanks again.
1) 30 inches by 30 inches. 6061. Coast Aluminum | They have a local warehouse 2) 15mmx30mm x 1 meter long. Bought it on Amazon.com
Thanks for sharing your work, I have a question that I hope someone can help me with. Is the machine like this one suitable for making 40mm deep aluminium molds? I can't see why it shouldn't be, but perhaps I'm missing something, as I'm new to CNC milling. (I have some experience in 3d printing in plastic) Thanks
I think you'd need to make it taller to fit that deep of a mold. Rigidity is the biggest issue with aluminum cutting. Mine worked well for quite a bit of hours but now I need to take it apart and see why the bed is jamming.
Thank you. This is what i needed to know. I imagine Y/Z axis mount can be reinforced a bit to help make taller Z as rigid as your original. I hope you diagnose that bed issue quickly. I'm still working out the kinks in my Prusa kit 3d printer (not exactly the same but precision required is similar), i know some of them can take quite some time
It turns out one of my motor drivers was going bad and that was causing the jamming issue. Swapped a new motor driver in and it's back to cutting aluminum.