Not sure what to do I just finished my build a couple weeks ago, ran great for a while now x axis is stuck. It just shimmys/vibrates then shuts off. I've reprogrammed the xprov3 messed with settings, and when off I can move the motor by hang smoothly.

 

What current/amps should each motor have for the OX build ?

I have the
- NEMA 23, peak current = 2.8A/Phase motor (NEMA 23 Stepper Motor)
- xPRO V3 Stepper, "Drive 4 motors with DRV8825 Stepper Drivers - 2.5A (peak) with 1.75A (RMS) with up to 1/32 microstepping" (CNC xPRO V3 Controller Stepper Driver)
- 24V powersupply. (24V /14.6A Meanwell Power Supply)

Meassuring (and Im a newbie at electronics, so that might be where the fault is ) I get that I can adjust from 0.8 to 1.6 amps to each motor.
Where is the normal sweet spot ? Default mine was set to 0.9 amps.

The reason Im doing this is I have alot of chatter when doing circles,round stuff, where both axis has to move together, and read somewhere to make sure that the Y motors got the same current.

EDIT: Just tried with 1.2 amps to each motor and so far the machine is running alot better. Will do more tests!


Thanks in advance

 

I'm sure it's been asked before but I haven't found it yet. Is the OX rigid enough for a 1.5kw chinese spindle? Will I need to strengthen the frame?

I'm looking to prototype with some aluminum the 2.2 and 3kw units make short work of aluminum but the weight and torque are too much for these aluminum framed machines (I think).
The Makita or Dewalt c611 look to be a little bit light for machining shallow aluminum enclosures.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Robert

 

Hi, I just started my ox cnc build project/journey. Ordered most of the pieces, pcs by pcs...
But I haven't ordered the V-slots yet, so question: The "spoil board" mod, where the spoiler board is closer to the z-axis, is there any practical reason to have this mod, except for getting closer to the z-axis?
It's a few dollars cheaper and lighter (postage) to go with the lower version.
I have virtually no experience with cnc machines, today I own a "toy" Chinese cnc

 

Hi guys.

I've just finished assembling my very first CNC machine, I researched for around 10 months and of course settled on the OX. I'm nothing further than a hobbiest, and having never built one before, I decided that the best start for me would be to buy a kit and take it from there, rather than trying to fabricate my own.

To that end, I settled on;

- OX CNC Mechanical Kit, 750mm x 1000mm (Kit) OozNest
- xPRO V3 Stepper, "Drive 4 motors with DRV8825 Stepper Drivers - 2.5A (peak) with 1.75A (RMS) with up to 1/32 microstepping" (CNC xPRO V3 Controller Stepper Driver) OozNest
- Nema 23 Stepper Motor 1.9Nm 2.8A 4-wires 6.35mm (NEMA 23 Stepper Motor) eBay
- DC12V 201W 16.5A Switching Power Supply (12v/16.5A Power Supply) eBay

I've built the kit, added the motors, wired in 6 limit switches (3 sets of parallel), adjusted the eccentrics so everything feels nice and rigid without being too tight, I've found the sweet spot for current to the motors and run a bit of g-code, everything looks and sounds sweet.

Next obvious step is to add a spoil board and cut some material, but I can't seem to work out exactly how I tell the machine where ZERO is for each axis. This got me to thinking that there must be some calibration/setup I need to go through in the software, so I had a poke about and my god are there a lot of things that I have no idea about! Steep learning curve inbound!

Quick question - Is a 12v PSU substantial enough? I thought so, but after reading Bjorn's post [#3401], I'm thinking I've missed something critical!

Anyway, glad to be on board, thought I'd just take the time to say what a sweet bit of kit this is and I very much look forwards to finding out what it's capable of once I know how to use it!

 

HELLO, I am working hard to get my OX cnc from Ooznest finished, but I am stuck at the UGS setup. I have followed all the steps in the manual up to 5.2.2 and began the test to jog the motors. At this stage I got no response from the OX motors. I restarted everything and when I reopened UGS I got the message that no serial port was found. Now I am stuck and cannot get UGS to recognize the serial port. Any ideas? I am running this on a Mac laptop with Seirra 10.12.6.

I'm completely stuck at this one step now and happy for any advice on how to proceed!

 

I am about to build a OX machine myself. I'm waiting for all parts to arrive. I decided to try and source all part the cheapest way possible, hence the long delay for all parts. I found one kit with four nema23 3.0A steppers and DQ542MA drivers, the kit came with two 36V 350W psu (link to kit).I don't know it that is overkill, but it is quite a big difference to yours 12V 201W psu

 

That's a beast! I imagine because you're also powering stepper drivers, that you'll need the extra power, where my router is a Bosch GFK600, and independently powered, so I'm really only powering the XPro v3 and 4x Nema 23's.

That being said, I splashed out on a 24v PSU, so I can wind it down to 23v -/+ to be sure

 

hallo ... this is my first post and my english use google translation.
when i pocket toolpath inside the corner looks rounded like the picture below.
I use mach3, "stop cv on angles" I tried to set 80, 70 and 45 degreee the result still looks like that, where is my mistake?

 

Perhaps this has been asked before but what is the max speed this build could run using 2a nema 23's? Would like to get a cutting speed of 175ipm

 

Cutspeed of 10 gauge mild steel with a Hypertherm Powermax 45 at 45amps. More curious if the motor,pulley,belt combination in this particular build is capable of that speed safely

 

Hi Mark, I purchased a OpenBuilds OX CNC Machine large (From Maker Store in Australia) with the Arduino(Compatible) UNO R3 with usb cable and the cnc shield with with 4 x A4988 stepper drivers and heat sinks. as well as the Maker Store NEMA23 stepper motors. OK built it and the machine works through input via UGCSender on all axis and returns home great.but it i try to run a small example program it goes Insane
Now i Have to experiment with ugs settings for it to function correctly . Is there a list of settings with this machine that will make it work when finished. i have adhered to
the design that you built on line that is used as a example. copy of what i currently have on machine.

any advise will be welcome Pete from Tasmania.


$0=10 (step pulse, usec)

$1=25 (step idle delay, msec)

$2=0 (step port invert mask:00000000)

$3=0(dir port invert mask:00000110)

$4=0 (step enable invert, bool)

$5=0 (limit pins invert, bool)

$6=0 (probe pin invert, bool)

$10=3 (status report mask:00000011)

$11=0.010 (junction deviation, mm)

$12=0.002 (arc tolerance, mm)

$13=0 (report inches, bool)

$20=0 (soft limits, bool)

$21=0 (hard limits, bool)

$22=1 (homing cycle, bool)

$23=3 (homing dir invert mask:00000001)

$24=25.000 (homing feed, mm/min)

$25=1000.000 (homing seek, mm/min)

$26=250 (homing debounce, msec)

$27=5.000 (homing pull-off, mm)

$100=200 (x, step/mm)

$101=200 (y, step/mm)

$102=200 (z, step/mm)

$110=1500 (x max rate, mm/min)

$111=1500 (y max rate, mm/min)

$112=1000.000 (z max rate, mm/min)

$120=20.000 (x accel, mm/sec^2)

$121=20.000 (y accel, mm/sec^2)

$122=20.000 (z accel, mm/sec^2)

$130=600.000 (x max travel, mm)

$131=760.000 (y max travel, mm)

$132=52.000 (z max travel, mm)


$H = HOME

$X= UNLOCK

 

Hi Gary,
in answer to your questions. all axis operate in the correct directions
Z screw = 1 300mm 8mm Metric Lead Screw / ACME
Pulleys = 3x GT3 Aluminum Timing Pulley – 20
as to micro step i have not set up anything i believe.
in essence i just assembled the ox as per instructions and Marks Carew's Video and expected to function like his did
I should point out i am a 66 year old "Newbie" so any help is welcome

cheers pete

 

Gday Gary, Well That's a Lot of information i was unaware of. I will let it soak in why i try to study up on it.

However, i went straight to the shield and looked beneath the driver just unused pins see jpegs below
so there is no micro stepping at this time,
So What would you advise 1/8 1/4 or 1/16 if i understand it the greater the steps the smoother the machine travels.
if i understand it to change it to 1/16 i have to connect all the pins as shown in the last photo but only the ones beneath the stepper drivers . on my machine i have also cloned y axis

hope you understand above

thanks again pete

 

Pete, like most things, there is a give and take scenario with the micro stepping. Since this is a milling/routing machine, and not a 3d printer, 1/8 steps is the most you want to go. Better yet, 1/4 steps. Google the stepping, there is a LOT of info on the pro and con of higher stepping.

 

Hi to all. I'm new here but have been looking at this build for a long time. I'm interested in one thing. I plan to use this machine as engraver but not for engraving flat surface. By that said, machine should have some king of sensor to constantly read distance between blade and material. We want to use it for engraving some pictures/text on motorcycle motor parts. It would be very cool for custom build Can it be done? Thank you very much and best regards, Danijel.

 

Often done in two passes with some software having surface probing. First pass is to 'read' surface at a specified number of points (the more the merrier, but longer the process will be). Then the software remaps the g-code to 'level' unto the scanned surface ... A process often done to engrave on PCB where a limited number of scan points is used to determine the 'flatness' of PCB - more like angle of board relative to the engraver's plane.

EDIT : example of above = Auto Probing With G-Code Ripper

An other approach seen is to define the surface in some CAD software which then maps the 'engraving' unto the surface before the g-code is generated. This could be done with SketchUP Make (not necessarely obvious or easy) and Fusion 360 (not any easier if you ask me) for possibly 'free', not counting your time. Vectric VCarve or Aspire, 2nd is expensive at nearly 2k$, seems to make it much easier. But not as versatile since the surface might need to be defined with an actual CAD program. However, the text CAN be changed quite easely compared to doing it all in the CAD program.

Best approach would probably be a combination of all of the above. First probe the actual surface to be milled in as much details as possible (maximum number of points to get good representation of the surface). Second use the mesh of points to create your surface in a CAD program. Refine the surface within the CAD program. Third use something like a Vectric software, Aspire being most versatile, to map the text OR drawing onto the simulated surface. Fine tune things running its simulation... Finally, generate the g-code off Vectric and run the job on your machine. Fingers crossed your surface scan and zero are dead on !

NOTE: I've never done the above, so your mileage WILL vary. The links supplied are not necessarely the best examples. They're what I quickly found Googling the 'Net. There are better examples, I'm certain, and probably much more recent examples. But this should get you going.

Have fun ...

 

Hi, I've started building an ox from a kit, and I'm having some trouble with the x-axis linear motion. Firstly, it's quite tight, even with the eccentrics adjusted out, but it still moves. If I give it a flick, it comes to a stop straight away, as opposed to the y-axis, which glides a little before stopping.

But I think this tightness is leading to a bigger problem. If I leave the x-axis alone for 20 minutes, then try to move it, it is "bogged down" in the position it was left in, and I have to force it out. Then, when I move it around, it "clunks" every wheel rotation. After some movement, and maybe manually turning each wheel while holding the plates, the problem goes away. What I think is happening, is the tightness is squashing the wheels down, causing an indentation, which causes the clunking.

When I look at the wheels, they do have a slight indentation around where the "v" starts going down on the v-slot.

This also happens with a single 20x60 installed, and when that single 20x60 is on the front or back. It also happens when the x/z assembly is off the machine and lying down, so it's not the weight of the assembly.

Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

Thanks Rick. I read the previous comments about plate versions, and I measured my plates with some calipers. They appear to be correct, according to the drawings, and the numbers you've quoted previously - 85.8685mm between outside edges.

Is there anything else you think could be wrong?

 

I just went through an took a heap of measurements, comparing with the model. Everything looks ok... the wheels, v-slot, plates, holes, bolts... I can't measure too accurately though, and I'm not sure of the width/angles of the V in the v-slot and wheels.

The only measurement that didn't match was from the outside of the top wheels to the outside of the bottom wheels,when assembled. The model says 104.954mm, where I measure about 104mm.

So, I re-assembled it, with the bolts only just nipped up, and now the v-slot slides fairly well. However, the wheels still thump after being left for 10 minutes! Argh! So, I think these wheels are just too soft...

I might proceed with the build, trying to keep it loose, and maybe upgrade the wheels later on. Before every use, I might just need to manually work the flat spots out...

 

And I got the kit from Maker Store - Maker Store here in Australia, who have been great so far.