Is this the board you're talking about?

 

Thanks Mike, I do plan on using proximity sensors, will they work with the Uno? What is filtering or opto-isolation? I will thank you in advance as I will surely be asking many more (probably dumb) questions.

 

maybe no longer watched (this feed is quite date) but I have the same question and found this on the web:
not tested yet. WARNING this is for xpro v2 on the V3 the probe connectore are screw connectors betweenthe USB plug and the main power screw connectors

 

So I am posting those here because we all have the same board even though it’s only because of the board and not the ooznest kit.

I’ve set up homing and soft limits and this works on the z and x axis.

However.... The y axis only moves a short distance. I either get Alarm :9. Couldn’t find the limit switch within 1.5 x of the work distance. ( around 1250mm )

Or

it stops with in a short distance and just shows as having worked. I am not sure if it’s a false trigger or not.


So, i’ve Reflashed the board, changed the homing direction, reinserted the distance, disconnected the limit switch on the y axis, moved the cables around away from the other wires. Disconnected the switch at the end of the wire and manually tripped it.

Nothing makes any difference! Apparently the X Pro v2 has isolators on board so the only thing I can think of is the cable and or a grbl bug.


By the way. It runs fine during normal ops with no homing or any kind of limit enabled. It doesn’t stall due to over heating. It’s grbl 1.1f.

Suggestions?

Thank you!

 

Hello

I know this is a very old post. But I am trying to get more tweaking info for my C-beam. Can you share your tweaks so I can get my machine not to sound so rough and loud? If you need any information from me I will be more then happy to provide what is needed. I am literally 1 day in after assembly and trying to iron out all the kinks ie: calibration etc to get it accurate and running like a lawn mower.
Thanks

 

Hello all

I finished assembling my C-beam machine. About to go thru the calibration process. Can anyone share their setting for me to start from?

 

Thank you I'll do that.

 

Hi there,
Not sure what you mean with the calibration process so I apologize for being quite broad and not so specific in this reply:

• For the Gcode you may look at appendix 6.1 for the Ooznest manuel here.
• For the Z azis zeroing, I use a touch plate linked to the Xpro like this one.
• I've quicly added limit switches to have physical limitation and avoid messing up my material.

Then for the calibration, I have drew a reticle on my base board, mount the mesh on the router and put it right in the spot manualy. Hit the Reset Zero and then use the touch plate to reset the Z axis. (this is good for laser printing or cutting (using the same point to the left down corner of the sheet to cut or print).

NOTE: The calibration has to be in accordance with the job you want to do. If you want to mill on a 1 inch thick piece of wood or aluminium, make sure to set the Zero at 1 inch high in your milling program somewhere on the piece and then manualy zero your machine on the same spot. I put the touch plate on the piece, make the calibration for Z axis and deduct the thickness of the plate to set the Zero for Z.

According to the thing I want to make, I usually prefer to set zero on the down (y) left (x) top (z) of the piece I mill and set the passes depth according to the material I'm miling (mdf, aluminium, foam, hardwood, etc).
Sometime (e.g. circular pieces) I chose to calibrate the machine zero in the middle of the prime material, having previously set the gcode accordingly.

You'll see, at the beginning, calibration sounds like a nightmare and after a few calibrations and recalibrations, It becomes a routine (which you should follow-up like a captain pre-flight checklist ;-)

Enjoy your machine and, remember, only your imagination is now the limit !

 

I got my machine running. After the first xpro v3 board was unresponsive I replaced it with a 2nd one I bought. (OPENBUILDS: what can I do about this? I purchased the board about 2 years ago and barely opened the package and connected it to my cbeam yesterday. Can I get store credit?)

1) My problem, my X-stepper randomly stops moving when ordered to. Both manually and while executing a file. I read in the forums of a similar problem but don't recall which thread and the solution to it. All wires are connected properly. I have to disconnect the USB and the PSU and reconnect after to solve the problem which occurs again.

2) I am having difficulty finding a software that is not ridiculously expensive. What I am trying to do is level a waste board and drill holes for counter sunk t-nuts. I have tried sketchup with sketchucam...and about to do fusion 360 but both are way complicated for the simple task I want.

I created a custom waste board dimension of 360L x 360W to accommodate the cuts I want to do.
Anyone able to help?
(I am actively searching for answers by reading threads and using the search function. So far search results are not helpful)

 

I just purcahsed a license for Estlcam. Is it possible to do a face chat thru facebook? I am a newbie and CAM/CAD eliterate. Some help would greatly be appreciated. I learn from being taught rather then reading and watching videos. if you can you can find me with my email [email protected]

 

After spending a day on fusion 360 I was able to make a wasteboard for the C-Beam. wasteboard 02-09-18 | Fusion 360 | Autodesk Knowledge Network
My new problem is getting my C-Beam to start working. I am having difficulty with the probe I have. I wired the probe according to this picture from openbuilds. http://www.vslot-europe.com/127-thickbox_default/cnc-xpro-controller-stepper-driver-v3.jpg
The ground being the aligator clip (red wire) for the drill bit and probe for the aluminum piece (black wire) that rests on the wasteboard. I'm using bCNC at the moment, and according to this youtube video
I enter a negative value for the probe Z and click on probe. The machine is suppose to cycle and stop when it touches the probe. What it does instead is go down to reach the negative Z value I entered. Even when it touches the probe the machine continues till it reaches that negative value then I get an error message "Probe failed". Yea obviously it did...but I don't know why...

 

And now my X-axis motor is not working....This machine is beginning to get under my skin....
I used the higher voltage (but not all the way as recommended) and the X-axis motor is not working....I have no idea why it was working fine after replacing the Xpro board. @OpenBuilds I think you and I will need to talk...this is becoming way out of hand. I've tried to set this machine up for the last year. Now when I feel I'm at a point where I can start cutting the parts don't work...What gives?

 

Firstly check you z probe wiring by just getting the ends of the wires and touching them together and seeing if it stops.

 

On my v 2 I had an issue where one of my y axis motors would just stop working randomly. Replaced the board all was fine. Msg spark concepts. He’s very helpful.

 

dear Michael
I ordered OpenBuilds MiniMill with Nema 23 and 24v power supply.
I installed, its look very nice.
I had CNC xPRO Driver v2.
when I connect the stepper motor to the driver, it's become overheat.
as I checked later the CNC xPRO Driver v2 is peak current 2.5 A, and the Nema 23 is 28 A.
is this setup is ok or I need to change the driver of the motors.

regards

 

I received my CNC xPro v3 and to test it I connected one Nema 23 stepper and a power supply (24v). When I turned it on the LED's lit up, and the stepper started screeching. Before I could pull the plug smoke erupted from the board. What could I have done wrong? I'm certain that I hooked it up correctly.

 

Hi there,
first I would like to thank user olecam for his findings about the bluetooh problem, it saved me lot of time. This week I tried to use my bluebee from SparkConcepts but got same problem described by him, no matter what no command was sent to my board (kickstart batch). I agree with him that there is some problem with the TX-0_FT/RX-I_FT lines "occupying" the DOUT/DIN bluebee lines. Olecam said that unsoldering pin20 solved the problem. I have no idea how he made that, seems a very difficult job to unsolder just one pin from ftdi, and as this would make USB unusable, I found another route. I noticed that the board has a SPDT switch for the atmega TX-0/RX-I lines called (uart_ss) serial select. So I just used (applied 5v to) that switch to disconnect TX-0_FT/RX-I_FT and connect TX-0_IDC/RX-I_IDC to TX-0/RX-I. Then I used IDC lines for BT and all worked as expected. I also had to follow Michael instructions about the 5v line, as I am NOT using an ATX power supply, I did had to inject 5v to the board to communicate with atmega. At the end I just replaced my bluebee by an HC05 to fit inside my case.

 

I’ve bought an ATX PSU and have a RN42 BT module too.

I went down the Xbee route but it stopped working. I got the Bluetooth connected with the RN42 and the 24v PSU but GRBL kept sending the initisation over and over and I assume the power wasn’t stable enough and it kept rebooting.

I will report back with findings if it’s more stable with the ATX. Unfortunately this means either moving the board off the back of the ox and into a box ( placed there in the ooznest kit ) or mounting the ATX on the gantry.

 

Ryan, you don't need ATX power supply, just add an LM2596 to step down your 24v to 5v and inject that to the 5v terminal. I have done that and works fine.

 

Hi there,

on V2 the probe pin is in the little brown pin block (check on Youtube: )
on V3 (as below) the Z probe is on the side between the reset and the spindle direction.

 

Cool. An ATX is a bit neater though.