Where did you get the plates from?

 

The plates are from the same people. I'm not sure where they got them from...

 

Hello all, I am very new to the world of the CNC machine but am looking forward getting going with this build. Ordered my extrusions and other hardware that should be arriving in a couple of days. I am preparing a table stand for the build and would like to know what would be a safe working height of this build. I am planing on putting a shelf above the build. I am shooting for 1000mm X 500mm and useing the plates that are given with this build. Thank you for an awesome site and for any help you can give me. Well, let me go ahead and ask, are there anyone in the United States make the plates?

 

So now that I've had my OX for a few years I'm getting the urge to change to a linear rail system, ball screws or something else besides the belt driven approach. Is there any builds out there that started with belt system and successfully converted?

 

Rob,

Check out this thread. https://openbuilds.com/threads/ox-upgrade-kit.8523/
He also has an excellent youtube video on the build.
Also check out this build:

I have attached a photo of my upgrade, before completing the spoil board, installing the control box fan and calibrating the machine. I have ran a couple of projects, but I need to have a re look at my speeds and feeds since I think they need some adjustments from the previous belt drive system.

Cheers

 

@Lasersc a quick eBay search will reveal a few USA plate producers such as BLUE OX

 

Guys cheers from Greece. this is my first post i think here and i need some help as i am totally lost trying to set up a ox 1500x1000 that i bought back on 2017.

Some specs beyond the known ones ( belt pitch, z acme etx) are that i am using a g540 for a controller and mach3. The whole system runs on a 24v from one power supply

Now i am in the process of setting steps per unit for x axis ( bipolar series wired stepper) and the way the stepper moves doesn't sound like it should.

I am using mach3 calculator for the steps but it gives me slower than slow movement. I know that there is something that i am doing and/or did something wrong and wish it is just a software matter. I tried to search for a easy formula i am reading here and on the cnczone some posts but i cant get where is the problem.
Even this that looks very similar to mine setup doesn't help it run well.

Anyway if anyone can help me look in the right direction to get this thing up and running would very much appreciated.

Pavlos

edit: guys i am feel a complete a**e . It was a velocity problem as it was very low. All up and running well ( so far).

Something else i have notice about the spindle and the vfd. The spindle has 4 pins saying the 4th is the earth-ground. I have left it unwired . is it ok? I have read here somewhere that i have to ground it to earth.
What is the case, do i have to plug it or it is not needed?

 

Congrats on your OX build!! I am having a similar problem with mine but I’m curious what the gcode velocity setting is. Is this the acceleration setting? How did you repair the issue?

 

it is the "speed" as i understood. no the acceleration is a different thing. i had my velocity down to 100 so i raised it up on 3000 and things work better this way . just double check that this is the problem for you . if i were you i would wait for some gury from here to step in and guide you,

 

Hmm. I am using bCNC...different software but surely it has a similar setting that can be adjusted like your velocity in Mach3. I will take a look! Thank you for your help!

 

Just downloaded the plate .dxf files. Why are they so big? Shouldn't they be drawn to scale?

 

Yes, I am aware of this.

When importing them into my sketchup model they came in huge. 2.5mm holes were 5in.

 

I'm working on a hybrid version of the OX and making custom modifications that come from a few different files. I've been using sketchup for over a year and have never seen an option for import scale. Where can I find it? Thanks

EDIT: Never mind, I found it. (Always thought Sketchup was advanced enough to automatically convert units!)

 

David thank you for the guidance. Issue resolved! I hope that this helps someone else in the future...

 

Can someone please help me! I built my C-Beam about a year ago and I'm having the hardest time trying to get it to work properly. I am trying to use Grbl panel release 1.0.3.0 with Fusion 360. I have an Arduino uno with a V3 shield. The problem I'm having is in trying to cut a simple pocket, 1" dia x 1/8" deep with maltible depth of cuts. The first cut looks great but when the bit retracts and moves over to start the second depth of cut it rapidly plunges into the part and at other times it will start the second cut in a new location. I have checked the code and the code appears to be correct. I have a 2.2 kw spindle with a cutting speed of 15,000 rpm and feed of 20 inches per minute and entry speed of 8 inches per minute. I am at a loss and ready to give up again.

 

Those VFD spindles cause a whole heap of electromagnetic interference. Sounds like your VFD is causing it. Take the bit out power off the VFD completely and try running your code. If it runs smoothly, you've found your problem. If that's the case you will need to shield and properly ground your VFD and cables.

Read here.Electromagnetic Interference: What Drive Users Need to Know | Control Engineering

 

I'm sorry this is still really new to me and I am unsure what you mean by taking the bit out power off the VFD.

 

It's ok, I was new once

Remove your cutting bit also known as your end mill from your spindle. A 2.2kW spindle is powered by a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive). Do not run the spindle. It produces a huge magnetic field through the wires that lead to your spindle. When large voltages are present in an unshielded wire it produces a magnetic field which can affect sensitive electronics and cause data errors. What I'm suggesting you to do is to remove your cutting tool from the spindle (so you don't crash the tool) and run your program as if you were cutting your part but, do not power on the spindle. If your spindle is not running there will be no electrical interference (magnetic field) present. If your machine does not do unexpected moves (as you suggested before) while running the program then, your spindle will be where your trouble is coming from.

 

what can somebody do if this is the problem. are there any workarounds ?

 

Put the VFD as far away as possible from the electronics and/or put the VFD in a metal housing that is grounded. Also, as beazlybub has writtne " When large voltages are present in an unshielded wire", shield your wire that go from the VFD to the spindle.

 

Hello everyone, I was wondering if you can help with a new build. I am very green and really have no idea of what I am doing, but I thought I can learn in the process. I am in the process of acquiring parts to build a 500x1000 Ox using some electronics I purchased years ago when I first attempted to build a machine. That machine never got off the ground for a number of reasons, but none of that matters. The reason I am going with that odd size is that I will mostly be doing small inlays in wood and saw a great technique where someone was using a v-bit to engrave a name, then in a contrasting color wood, engraved a mirror image that was then glued into the first engraving. They then planed off the contrasting wood to leave an inlay of the name in the wood. These would then be made into small boxes to be given as gifts.

The hardware is all ordered and I will be placing an order soon for the rails, but the 2040 I will source locally through Graingers. I have an account through work which will save me on shipping. The price is the same as mailing for it, but by not having to pay for shipping, I can get about double the length for a bit more. The only problem is that it only comes in 4 or 6m lengths, so I might have to hacksaw it in the parking lot to get it home. The remainder will be used for building an Acro which I will cut the plates using the Ox after I get it running.

My question is with the electronics. The machine that I had planned on before was totally different and as a result, I have 3 270oz NEMA 23's, 3 Keling KL-4030's, and an breakout box that runs off a parallel port. I also have 3 Arduino Uno's along with some LCD panels that I can use to display locations kind of like a 3d printer. I also have 3 NEMA 17's and 4 NEMA 14's along with DRV8825's if I can find what box I threw them into. The power supply I currently have is a 36v 9.7amp. I may have a 12v supply around somewhere also, or I can source one if needed.

My first question is since I will be making this first build with belts, should I run 2 of the 23's for the x axis and use a NEMA 17 for the Z, or go ahead and buy another 23? also, with the KL-4030, could I run both 23's off of one driver, or should I also source another one of those.

Secondly, I plan on eventually upgrading to the Vectric software, but will start with mach 3 or something similar. Could anyone recommend a controller that will work with my hardware that will not break the bank or should I use an arduino or the parallel board I already have?

I know I will have a million more questions when I start my build. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks for any comments.

 

Thank you for all that. I had thought Vectric had the controllers built in. So, breakout board or Arduino? If I do Arduino, it will give me leg up when it comes to building the Acro. But if it is easier to use, then I can always get a new board.

Sketchup still scares me. The last time I used CAD software was in 1984 with a old version of AutoCAD. I was planning on using the Vectric to idiot proof my first few projects, but I'm sure I will make a few errors anyways along this process.

One reason I was looking for a different board is that this old breakout board has no memory and requires the computer to do most of the work. It also cannot use a laptops because of the power features on them. Also, I was considering picking up a laptop for the shop without the parallel port, so I would need a work around if I kept the old board. If I stick with the Arduino, then I am going to have to learn a whole new language along with all the CAD and Gcode, so it might be a little overwhelming.

Thank you again for taking the time to walk me through this build. I have been reading as much as I can and soaking it all in, but until I actually get hands on building, it's still a bit over my head. BTW, can you recommend any setup videos or resources. I'm fairly confident in my building abilities, but the electronics is still new to me, so any research I can do before I get to that point will help.