I have finish to test all printed parts \o/

I am now working on a vslot hand cutting tool. I use the Kyo design for this as a base and add some improvements (thanks Kyo if you read me).

 

I am not an expert, this is the first time I am cutting aluminum profiles. However, it seems that the best choice is the miter saw. Circular saw works too but better to make a crosscut sled for it.

There are saw blades that are special for aluminum which helps a lot to get a nice cut.

 

Hi all,

I have build a V-Slot hand cutting tool for those that does not have a miter saw. It and it is very accurate when used properly (means taking time to prepare it). For now it is on Thingiverse only but will come soon here as well : V-Slot Hand Cutting Jig by pekcitron





It has been inspired by the awesome work of Kyo : V-Slot Cutting System

 

Thank you for your comment, really appreciate

 

I have updated the first page :
- update images with latest printed parts
- add details about cutting v-slots
- add details about drilling the frame
- gives more details on dimensions and printed parts positions

 

I have just published the v-slot hand cutting jig on Openbuilds : V-Slot Hand Cutting Jig

 

I have add the DXF of the frame for those that want to use their CNC
prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/optional_parts/alu_frame at master · gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade · GitHub

 

Some early builders found an issue where zip ties head were entering in contact with bed carriage. It is now fixed

 

Thanks for that! Can not wait to see your build!!!

Too late for the "Tall print wobbling test", I have just finished the build . If you would like / have time, you can contribute to the project and adding this test, would be very helpful.

I am working on PSU parts, almost ready! I can not find the PSU cover stl/scad file that match my MK2s, I suspect it something is different between MK2 and MK2s here, grrrr.

I have decided to remove the black angle bracket on the alu frame side, too hard to square and I could not see any difference in rigidity (someone p.builds mention that problem in the beginning of the project, he was right ).

 

p.builds mentioned in the beginning that it might be hard to tighten the Z aluminum frame and he was right. After several testing, I decided to remove black angle corners on the frame and rigidity does not seem to be affected, still sturdy. I finished the first build this week-end!

First results :
- Feels much sturdy in hand
- Less noisy
- Less vibration (my spool was previously shaking a lot during quick movements)
- Prints are better (less ghosting) on the PSU side. However, it is not that much better on the side of the RAMBo case. This Alu frame is not strong enough. I am pretty sure MK3 will be similar, if not worse.
- Easier to maintain

Next steps :
- I will try to design new motor mounts that will be fixed on both frame and extrusion to make this alu frame sturdier. If it will not be enough, then I will switch to v-slots for Z axis as well.
- I still would like to do very little updates on some pieces (to ease build and maintenance)

 

You are the first "Prusa i3 clone" to build my upgrade, very cool. Do you have the power supply outside the case?

 

In case of you can get the openbuilds STEP files here : https://openbuilds.com/projectresources/step-parts-library.162/

 

nice case

 

Do not forget to check out the manual as well : prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/manual at master · gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade · GitHub

Having a belt tensioner on Y idler would be very good. I tried few designs but I could not find something "acceptable" to me. So I decided to go with simple solution until I get the perfect idea. Feel free to design one and share it, maybe I will add it to the build as well

I am working on version 2.0 now and it will be split in 2 different builds : Full and Half upgrade. The Half upgrade corresponds to the v2.0 of this build and is almost finished (parts and manual are done). If you want to try it, check here : prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/half_upgrade at dev · gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade · GitHub

 

Very nice, can't wait to see a Half Upgrade v2.0 in the wild!!! You are safe with V2.0 on Half Upgrade, it is only refinements (and in case of you can use your second printer, I will be close to my email in case of and I can react quickly). I am going to open a new build for V2.0, do not want to mess up V1.0 and V2.0 as I introduce a new printer (the full upgrade).

Just one think I heard about Ooznest is that their tapped holes (in V-Slots) are less deep than what I recommend. I decided to use quite long screws and maybe this was useless... I heard someone used smaller screws and that was totally fine (15mm long if I remember well). Anyway, if you have time to give me a feedback on this that will be very welcome . I have to add a note somewhere about this in my documentation/manual.