Not sure that's going to help. STL would be OK for viewing, but if I want to edit it I think I would be out of luck. Don't suppose you could save it as .3DS or .DAE?

MG

 

Yeah, I've been looking at it but I have a lot of time and effort invested in Sketchup at this point. Not sure I want to start all over again with a new program. Will it save an .SKP file?

MG

 

Hi guys, I finally got my table finished. It took a moment to build it, longer than I had planned, but I am glad I took the time and built something solid that will last.



The next stage is now to build the router.

 

Whats the hole in the middle for?

MG

 

Openbuild routers like the Workbee dont have that much Z

The Workbee doesn't have the greatest Z-range which is ok if you consider what you pay for it. However, as I will be milling panels and engraving medium sized wooden blocks, I thought it would help to have a partially lowered section in my table to gain some height. The hole is 78mm deep (60mm box section and 18mm plywood). To enable this trick, I will remove my spoil board and place the larger work item onto the lower section. To adjust things so that I am within the Z-range of my Workbee, I will make a number or spacer boards that I can place under the work items. Further, I will place T-tracks along the edge of the hole so that I can firmly hold down my items. Key to this, the router has to be firmly attached to the table, otherwise the router will start dancing up and down.

For really big items, I could technically remove the bottom plywood section (8 screws only) and put items through the table and find a way to securely attached them. Now that is a topic for another day as I already spent some time thinking about that but haven't found a simple and satisfying solution yet.

Hope that all makes sense .

 

Hello,
First post here
I'm considering buying a workbee 1000/1000.
I have little space in my workshop and a solution for me would be to store the workbee on the ceiling when I do not use it (above the car).
I would make a wood torsion-box of + - 15cm thick to put the Workbee on it.
Then I have a winch and pulleys and will tie the four corners of the cables.
Has anyone already realized this type of solution, do you have a contrary opinion, recommendations?
Is the workbee "self sufficient" or it's better to attach it to the table for more stiffness ?
Is storing vertically against a wall a better solution ?
Thanks a lot !
Seb

 

@artfuturo That is a very nice looking table! Well done. Is that some dust collection for the Workbee I see under the left side of the table?

Hi @sebcbien , welcome for the forum. The OpenBuilds C-channel, which the WorkBee uses for the side rails, is really strong. Have a stiff table underneath is good practice, but isn't strictly needed. In one of the threads of conversation there was talk of just supporting the Workbee at the ends. I've not seen any pictures or stories of someone doing this yet, however it is feasible.

 

Having the machine suspended by cables would be a very poor situation. It will flop around like a fish out of water when running because of the acceleration of the gantry.

Having the machine bolted down is a must in any kind of suspended situation. You don't want the thing falling on your car...

I would recommend either a rolling bench that you could just roll out of the way when not using it, or a wall mounted table. Wall mounting is a bit difficult because of the height of the Z axis, but it's do-able.

Or, you could just give up parking in the garage and have a proper shop... (I haven't parked in my garage for 25 years...)

MG

 

Hi, thanks everyone for your advice..
Here is my shop...



My car is almost always outside, but during the winter, when there is ice and snow, with the kids, at 6h30 am... well I prefer it inside than having to defrost the car for 15 minutes ;-)
As you can see, my shop is already well "stuffed", even the miter saw bench is designed to have the nose of the car fit under the table ;-)
All other workbench, Table saw, router, Tools cart are already on wheels.
I will not use the CNC hanged of course, it will be on top of one of my existing workbench when in use.
I already have the winch, it was for a heavy roof tent, but I do not have it anymore.
So it's more a question of rigidity and staying square, even when not put on an heavy workbench.
But you answered my question, if it can be wall mounted, it's rigid enough.

 

That is a nice looking workshop. If only we could make the WorkBee collapse nicely into some Systainers, like you have under your bench, then it would be easily portable and could be stored.

 

Hey there! Finally found the time to put together my 1000mm x1000mm screw kit. Really enjoying it so far!

Ran into this though:


The grub nut for one of the lock collars didn't have any threads! Where is the best place to get a replacement quick in the US?

(Of course I find this Friday evening...)

 

I've used an M5 low profile 6mm screw in a pinch... The low profile head will clear the inside of the c-beam.

MG

 

Hmmm... I am in Portland and Hobby King's west coast warehouse is just a few miles away. As are a bunch of Fastenals. Thanks for the tip on both of these! Sadly neither open until Monday morning so I am just going to sit on my hands until then.

 

Hah. You are answering questions I had been mulling. I was looking to get some steel beams for a nice heavy workbench. The Clackamas Steel referral is great! Thanks.

 

Slowly but surely getting there, absolutely loving putting this together. It's my first CNC so I am taking my time and learning each step of the way. Instructions are so easy to follow, I zealously pushed on a few times and had to redo things but all my fault.

I will hopefully be able to post a video in the next week or two of its first steps. Thanks to Ryan and all the Ooznest people for releasing such an excellent product.

 

Evening all,
Very newbie here but having so much fun with our new Workbee. I seem to have a problem with the finished work lately in having a lot of leftover strings. Is this the wood (Oak) or a blunt bit maybe?
Much appreciate any advice,
Thank you.

 

Jim:

Could be several things. Dull bit, feed speed not right, router speed not right. There are a lot of variables that only lots of practice will get you the answers to. It may be the type of wood as well, oak is notorious for splintering.

What type of bit are you using? Looks like at least some of it was a flat nose bit. A spiral downcut bit will make cuts with a downward shearing action that eliminates the fuzz on the edges, and although not usually recommended for inside cuts, yours are shallow enough that it may be OK. I have never seen a downcut ball nose, however, if that's what you are using.

Get yourself one of these:



It's called a sanding mop. Available at lots of woodworking stores. It will get rid of all those fuzzy edges easily without destroying all the detail in your carvings. Get one with a fairly fine grit, 120 and up. You run it in your drill press, at the highest speed setting it has. Be gentle.

MG

 

Metalguru,
Thank you very much for this. I have never seen such a sander but will add one to my kit. There is a lot to learn but will get there. I was using a 1/16th ball nose but have been using it a lot so maybe it is dulling.
Best,
Jim.