Thanks, Ryan, may try this. In general, how long would you expect a bit too last? (from the kit on your site) I know this is obviously governed by how much you use it but say 10 jobs?

 

First I am new to the forum but want to say there is a ton of great information for people just getting started. I am looking forward to hearing my Workbee has shipped.
I have taken the advice about tables and started building a torsion box which should be complete soon. It really was a fun project

Jay

 

Hi guys
I was rather quiet for the last two weeks, but that had a reason, I was having fun . It took me a bit longer to put everything together but I wanted to get it right first time. I am really pleased with the result.
@Ryan Lock, I have to say that your kit was exemplary. My background is Electronics-Mechanic (although a while ago), so I had a little advantage. However, things were made as easy as you possibly can make it - every little bag was nicely labelled, all plans with the correct references to the materials, high quality drawings, what more can you ask for. Since my model is the 1000x1500mm screw-belt version, that made it a little bit more complicated, so I assume a pure screw or belt model would even be easier.
When I switched the machine on for the very first time, it worked perfectly, nothing to correct or adjust. Now that put a big smile on my face.
I am hoping to put the spoiler board on tomorrow so that I can run a few proper tests early next week.
Thanks again to everybody for your advice, you guys were spot on and I really appreciated it.
Cheers
Phil

PS: I have attached a few pictures.

 

Finally got around trying to test some g-code on my 1000x1000 workbee, but encountered some issues in UGS with soft limit alarm. Im hoping someone could give me some input as to what im doing wrong?

I'm simply trying to do a 2mm 2d pocket on a defined stock at 200x200mm (anchor top left) (see the images below + attached g-code).

I homed my machine first (-3, -3, -3) > moved to x-400 (machine coordinates) > reset work space to zero > tried to run the g-code > and soft limit alarm appeared.

With the test setup I did, it seems I should have lots of movement space on both X Y Z axis?

Did also setup the GRBL settings (screw driven) as noted in the setup guide.

Im getting the following error:
"An error was detected while sending Z15: (ALARM:2) Soft limit alarm. G-code motion target exceeds machine travel. Machine position retained. Alarm may be safely unlocked. Streaming has been paused"

Disclaimer: im all new to this

The soft limit error


the g-code setup


Edit: attached single images for better view than the thumbnails

 

Hi I am getting very similar error messages but have yet to find a solution, getting very frustrated so let me know if you find a solution. I will do likewise

Lee

 

Hi I had many problems with WorkBee and CNC xPRO Controller V3 with UGS. Generally most things were sorted by going home $H then pressing RESET ZERO, then jogging to new material position then RESET ZERO again. (I'm very new to this too!) My problem now is that any cutting that takes longer than 20 min the system freezes with no way out.

 

Gary
TY. Board dual fans, PC not on any Sleep / hibernation mode, Router not linked to program. I have just saved the original g code file within UGS software and run it with out router on. That was fine (33min Prog) Just started it for real. will let you know if this solved it. Any idea what the lights on the board mean. Paul (in Hampshire)

 

Gary.
Ahhhh! Dry run worked fine. Real run failed (locked up) with only 1000 lines of code to go out of 36k lines. Only difference is truning on the router and vacuum. Power lines or static ???????????? any thoughts?

 

Hello all, I am new to the forum so just wanted to say hi - hi! I have been doing a lot of reading on here and thought it only right to thank everyone who has contributed already, this is a great resource. I have finally taken the plunge and ordered a 1500x1000mm belt/screw version of the WorkBee so I am eagerly awaiting its arrival.

Speaking of which - do we know when the next batch of WorkBees will be shipped? I ordered a black version back on the 9th March but sent an email to say I would be happy with the silver version if it can arrive quicker - Ryan and his team replied very quickly so I can already vouch for the good customer communication!

 

Welcome to the forum Tobin. I just finished building the very same model and it was great fun. Right now, I am learning how to use Vectric Cut2d Pro so I can hopefully run in my first job this week.

 

Thanks Ryan, got the problem sorted I didn’t have enough Z clearance, I repositioned router and all good, happily carving away now.

 

Ordered a workbee 1000x1000 screw driven today... can’t wait!!!
Already have the ox 1000x1500 with some modification for a stronger z...
My experience with the OX was great, So I know I’ll be pleased with my choice for another ooznest creation. Thanks guys

 

SO FAR! it looks as if it was a static problem via 4m of PVC pipe (now earthed) Progs. have run with out freezing. TY Paul

 

@Paul Rapson
I added two smooth idler pulley just under and either side of the GT3 pulley so the belt wraps round more tooth. Change the Z axis to a trapezoidal and bolted straight on to the stock Z plate. By removing the original Z axis, I ended up with parts to add more wheels to run along the X axis, top and bottom. Also bolted the x axis extrusions together. I’m using a heavy water cooled 2.2kw spindle with no slipping or bowing issues.

 

Oh and did the Double belt thing.
Also search for a thread titled “longest x axis”. That’s where I got the ideas from and read through the thread to find more pictures of what I did.

 

Can someone please help me! I built my C-Beam about a year ago and I'm having the hardest time trying to get it to work properly. I am trying to use Grbl panel release 1.0.3.0 with Fusion 360. I have an Arduino uno with a V3 shield. The problem I'm having is in trying to cut a simple pocket, 1" dia x 1/8" deep with maltible depth of cuts. The first cut looks great but when the bit retracts and moves over to start the second depth of cut it rapidly plunges into the part and at other times it will start the second cut in a new location. I have checked the code and the code appears to be correct. I have a 2.2 kw spindle with a cutting speed of 15,000 rpm and feed of 20 inches per minute and entry speed of 8 inches per minute. I am at a loss and ready to give up again.

 

Hello All,

First reply here and will read the 11 pages of posts tonight. I am researching CNC routers and designed one years ago in solidworks and never built it, but prices have come down so much it makes sense to just buy one now. For my needs the 1500mm x 1500mm size is perfect. I will be using this to cut thin aluminum sheet for a homebuilt airplane. Most of the sheet is .025" and .032" 6061-T6 with a few other parts in the.125" thick range. For the this sizes mentioned can I cut through on one pass? I am OK with a slow feedrate but do not want to have to make multiple passes to cut thin sheets. I will also need to cut MDF or Corian to be used as a hammering buck. I also have more questions below.

• Is the machine only open loop or could encoders be added? If so are there inputs for encoders on the drivers. I have some Renishaw linear encoders not doing anything.
• for my needs, I will install a large sheet of aluminum and will run a routine of a small drill through the sheet at various locations. I then will install a Cleco in the sheet to hold the sheet down in that area. Than install the proper cutting end mill and run the actual cut file. When the machine cut file is made, can I let it know where the clecos are so it avoids them? To do this I would probably need to remove the vacuum attachment.
• If I draw a part in solidworks with some feature contours can it cut them. 2.5D I believe. Ie a radius on the edge of an mdf part.
• Is there a way to go from a solidworks file to the cut file with the included software or will I need to learn a 2.5d CAM package.
• Where are people buying these machines. Seems there are many retailers so want to pick an approved one.
• AliExpress has a 1500mm x 1500mm version with leadscrews and I see the original does not offer that to avoid leadscrew whip. I imagine this is an unapproved copy. Thoughts on this version?
• Having an all leadscrew or ballscrew version would be my 1st choice. Especially if I end up cutting aluminum open loop. I do have a pretty tight accuracy/repeatability requirement on a few items.

That's it for now...

Thanks in advance,

Marc Webster

 

Thanks for the reply Ryan. I was thinking for the Cleco avoidance I could just have the endmill extend far enough out that it makes the base of the router clear the top of the cleco.
Clecos, Cleco Fasteners, Cleco Pliers for Sheet Metal, MRO Tools , Nova® Pneumatic Drills, Carbide Cutting Tools

M only concern on cutting very thin aluminum with multiple passes is that it may buckle a bit or move out of the way as it cuts. Anyone here have experience cutting thin sheet aluminum?

In regards to the 1500mm screws are you saying that you carry a 1500 x 1500 version that is all leadscrew and no belts? Are you using antibacklash turcite nuts on the screws? Can you give me a link to a few of your re-sellers?

Best regards,

Marc

 

Thanks Ryan. It was the spindle cable creating noise because it was not shielded. I shielded that cable today and things seem to be working fine now. I'll run more test morning.

 

So having owned my WorkBee since last year and not having actually done anything with it yet I really need to sort the last few things and get using it.

I need to secure the spoiler board down to the extrusions. I am going to use drop in t nuts and low profile bolts as I have seen others doing. I have some left over t nuts but need some low profile bolts. I am using an 18mm spoiler board. I am assuming a 25mm low profile bolt will suit and wont be too long?

Also what is the recommended workpiece fix down method? Is drilling multiple holes through the spoiler board with pronged t nuts behind the best method? If so what size pronged t nuts are people using, M5?

I am also wanting to run a pass over the spoil board to ensure its all one level. Can anyone recommend a bit to use for this? Im using the usual Dewalt router.

Cheers

 

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-4-Inch-Cutting-Carbide-Cleaning/dp/B01N9I773D
Works well for me.

If you can't order from amazon, just search "1/4 x 1 surface planing bottom cleaning" . The bit is made in China and several places carry them.

 

Which way have you got your supports?

I run my supports 'flat' (but i Have a sphinx) - I think you can do the same on the Workbee.

I use a 25mm MDF lower spoilboard that is screwed through and secured to the workbench I build, effectivel sandwiching the CNC frame and securing it to the work trolley.

On top of this I screw my actual spoilboard (Again 25mm MDF), countersinking the screws to avoid hitting them if i go too deep by accident.

The weight of the 2 25mm spoil boards adds quite a bit of stability to the machine as well - added bonus.

As i mainly cut MDF for my arcade machine business I just screw through the sheets into the spoilboard. MDF is cheap enough to replace every few months and its only the top sheet.

 

When I screwed through I took care not to hit the supports.

Makes for a very secure fix without having to alight nuts etc.