Oh Cool... Yes the car ones are lower profile and could work, but I need to use clecos to match the rivet sizes so can upsize the hole for another clamping method. They make low profile clecos.

What are you building? I bought the rights to the Raceair Skylite and Lill Bitts and I plan to begin tooling up to Kit the Skylite and want the CNC to help with development. Once sorted out I would likely have kits water jet cut. Myself and a few other guys in EAA club finished an all plans built Cygnet SF-2a and its been flying since March last year. I am also about half way done on a build of a Zigolo MG-12 and the Skylite will be the next project....

 

It was a plans-built "Poorboy" LSA (single-seat pusher - too heavy for Part 103). Unfortunately, it's at that 90% done, 90% to go stage - for a few years now....

 

Very cool, I didn't know what Clecos are. Thank you for sharing that video.

 

Can anyone give me an idea about spindle weight and how it affects speed and acceleration on a screw driven workbee?

I'm deciding between a approx 1.5kg router like the makita and a 2.6kg- 3kg 800w spindle. How much weight is too much? I realise there is no hard limit but at what point do you have to slow way down or otherwise limit performance?

Is the difference between 1.5kg and 2.5kg enough that you'd have to slow down?

Is there a sweet spot between power, weight and noise?

 

Incredibly basic question - on a workbee that isn't square (ie 1000x750) which is the longer axis?

I think I saw pics showing the Y axis being longer but I haven't seen anything conclusive.

Would be a good thing to add to the description on ooznest.

 

I plan to get myself set up for one of these routers so thank you for all the previous answers. However, I need a bit more y axis travel. Could a 1500mm x 3000mm machine be made by joining extrusions and longer belts? Or perhaps 1000mm x 2000mm? If so how would I request to have the longer tubes or extra tubes added? Seems even if I buy through a local distributor, they contact you anyhow. Or I just buy direct from you...

 

I finally ran my first 'proper' Workbee job, making a clamping system. I am using Marius Hornberger's clamping design based on pressure exerted by a lever system. I broke my first bit too which was kinda cool, there was flex in my wasteboard that I think caused it. I'd a bit of cleaning up to do on the belt sander but I think that's down to the quality of the bit and/or my plywood. Delighted with how it went, was weirdly nervous before running it but it worked out well! Next project is a dust shoe

 

I finally have my 1000x1000 Workbee screw driven machine ready and trying to understand couple of things:

1. On Workbee Full Kit Assembly Manual, 4.1.1 X & Y Limit Switches, I don't get how far from the end of the extrusions the X-Axis Limit Switch should be... Is the Manual statement correct? "The distance between the Limit-Switch-Plate and the end of the extrusion should be 10mm." It cannot be since the width of the Y axis C-Beam extrusion is 40mm. See pic attached. If I will leave it to 10 mm, the X axis carriage will never hit the switch, right?


2. Does anybody know the meaning of the leds on XPRO v3 board associate with each step motor... it turns from red to yellow and green ... but could not find the meaning. I definitely have to spend some time on debugging it, however, I need some guidance on LED indicators before getting into more details.

Thanks,
Andrei

 

I guess I was answering myself on item (1) . The X axis carriage could travel above the Y axis C-Beam extrusion ... just missed it.
However, on (2), I am still uncertain.

 

I am on the cusp of ordering my first cnc router. I have it narrowed down to the Workbee and the Shapeoko.

Which is the stronger and more rigid machine? Which would be more accurate?

I like that the Workbee uses screws, but i have not been able to find any information on the rigidity compared to the Shapeoko.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

 

The rigidity would mostly be based on the overall size of the machine you intend on buying, and on the type of spindle or router used. A water cooled system is not only very expensive but very heavy! I looked at Shapeoko also at first, but went with the WorkBee as I liked the idea of it being highly configurable. As we speak, I'm adding a couple more C-Beam extrusions to the overall design to raise the cutting depth and strengthen it .............. not that it really needs strengthening, as it's solid as a rock


TURK

 

I would say that the Workbee is far superior to the Shapeoko. More wheels, Workbee has 48 Extreme V-wheels, Shapeoko has 12 delrin wheels. Better extrusions, better base construction, screw instead of belt drive. No comparison, IMHO. Workbee is 4X the machine that the Shapeoko is.

MG

 

Clecos are kind of like a temporary, reuseable pop rivet. You use them to hold 2 pieces of sheet metal together while fitting or drilling, in a hole.

 

I recently purchased the workbee kit from openbuilds. Can anyone tell me if there is a kit somewhere for all the parts it doesnt include?

 

Not really. You need a controller (arduino), stepper drivers DQ542 or equivalent, and a power supply. Everything except the Arduino is available at the OB store. Or, if you want to spend some more money for an improved system, try the Buildbotics controller (Buildbotics Open-Source CNC Controller). There are literally thousands of ways you could go with this. Even an ESS or UCC100 and Mach3, if you wanted. All have stepper drivers and power supply in common. I use Sainsmart stepper drivers and the above power supply and arduino mounted on a panel that fits on the back of the X axis, so no cables and no separate control boxes. Just a power cord and a USB cable.



Make sure you run 14Ga ground wires to all moving parts of the machine and base, and put fuses in your power leads to the stepper drivers.

MG

 

Thanks. Great info. I already have the CNC xPro V3 controller stepper driver. What else do I need to get this thing going?

 

I would definitely NOT recommend the Xpro. Anyone who's seen my posts knows I have an extreme prejudice against that particular piece of hardware. Suffice to say IMHO it has no business controlling anything bigger than a NEMA17 motor. Just because you CAN use a particular piece of kit, doesn't mean you SHOULD.

I already gave you the complete list of what you need. It's all there in the previous post. You can add all kinds of accessories, like limit switches, probe, e-stop, spindle control, etc, but they can be added at any time.

If you have specific questions, ask away. Perhaps read the blog on my website, 3DTechWorks.ca. It has loads of technical info.

MG

 

Ok Im going to see if I can return the Xpro.

How about this combo.

Controller: https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Uno-...e=UTF8&qid=1530079489&sr=1-4&keywords=arduino

Drivers: https://www.amazon.com/STEPPERONLIN...pID=51qw46At05L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


Also, what size wire should i use for all of this?

 

I prefer the Arduino Nano and it's screw terminal shield, its a lot easier to work with than an Arduino UNO. 1/4 the size as well.

The stepper drivers you show would work fine.

Stepper driver power should be 16Ga wire with 5A fuses to each driver. Wire each driver individually back to the power supply, do not daisy chain the power. Wiring for the input side of the drivers to the arduino can be 22 or 24 ga, not critical.

DO NOT connect the motor power supply DC ground to either chassis ground or Arduino ground. The Arduino (and therefore your PC) is isolated from motor power by built in optoisolators in the drivers, don't compromise this. Ground all parts of the machine (X,Y,and Z) axes and main chassis to the AC power ground on the power supply input (14ga wire) and through the AC line cord. This is important for safety, noise immunity, and draining of static charges.

MG

 

Thanks for all the help, MG!

This looks like a clone, but it should work right? https://www.amazon.com/initeq-Compa...&sr=8-7&keywords=arduino+nano+terminal+shield

And would this PSU be ok? https://www.amazon.com/EAGWELL-Univ...pID=41yaV83tFnL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

Yeah, the Nano shown should work ok. Be aware that those kits come unassembled and you have to solder everything to the board.

PSU might be OK, but you have to be careful with those noname Chinese power supplies. They very rarely have UL approval, and so are not certified to any safety standard. I'd stick with the Mean Well LRS-350-24, it is CSA and UL approved and is only a couple bucks more.

https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-LRS...0153564&sr=8-16&keywords=mean+well+LRS-350-24

MG

 

Shipping costs about 20 bucks for that one. This one is on Prime. Would it suffice? https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-LR...8&qid=1530160131&sr=1-4&keywords=meanwell+24v

Also, could you shoot me a link to a good source for the wire? Im having a hard time finding 16 gauge 4 conductor shielded

 

Whatever floats your boat. I find that stuff with Prime shipping is always a bit more money than non prime, so the difference in costs are usually a wash. There are dozens of listings for that power supply on Amazon.

Again, careful with buying wire at the local big box store. Generally all they have is thermostat wire or bell wire which is generally solid core. Definitely not good for constant flexing. I just go to my local electronics outlet, but I'm in Canada, so I can't help much with that. Don't you have the equivalent of an "Electronics Big Box Store" down there? Fry's or something? You could try the usual suspects such as Element 14, Allied, Digikey, Newark, Jameco, etc. There is a multicore wire made for Surround Sound speakers which may be commonly available.

18ga should be good enough for motors unless you have a really long run. I said 16 ga just for the short wires between the driver and the power supply.

MG

 

Unfortunately my local lowes, HD, and Menards ONLY sell it in 500ft spools. :/

 

Ok I have all the electronics ready to go. Just need to buy cable. I found a decent source on ebay, 16 awg is basically the same price so ill just run everything stepper motor related with 16awg.

Why does it need to be shielded? Just curious.

 

Doesn't need to be shielded. But you can use shielded wire if you want. Just keeps radiated noise to a minimum. Make sure to only ground the shield to chassis (not DC) and only connect it on one end, not both.

MG

 

Thanks again for all the help MG.

Would you mind sharing some more details/pictures of your wiring setup? Seems to be very clean looking ..