Im from south central Manitoba, cutting forming was completed by WB Metal Fab, a rural shop. The exchange really makes you reconsider a project like this. Adding 30% to everything pushes hobby projects over the edge.
Yes, the parts was first drawn on CAD, a DXF file (Flat Pattern) was created from there, and a drawing, then cut on a plasma table as the flat and then formed according to the instructions on the drawing. Formed sheet-metal is a wonderful thing
Once I get it up and running I plan to build a downdraft table that has a waterfilter, Hydrotron builds a simple unit. I plan to copy one and scale it down, I want the benefits of the downdraft with the filtering water can provide
I see I just went to browse their website. I like the idea of the downdraft table, but it seems to take huge air ducks and I am not sure I would have the place in my small workshop to implement it. Please share with us when done, I would like to see it. Best luck.
I just wanted to say a huge well done on what is shaping up to be a fantastic looking build, one that is very aspirational. Ive been waiting to see such a build on here for some time! Especially one which solves many of the problems associated with other methods of DIY construction, primarily as you touched upon, distortion of a frame due to weld pull vs precision bent and bolted components. On those lines, were the channel and (is it angle?) sections at the sides and rear bent to your specifications also? Ive had a look around and larger sized channel and angle in relatively thin wall compared to their overall dimensions aren't especially common over here. I assume the one part that actually was unavoidably welded would have been the folded triangular 'fillet' at the base of the leg? I loaded your leg dxf into fusion360... It's showing a tab at both sides of the leg, around 1/3 of the way up. I can't see it replicated in the photographs of the finished article? Many thanks!
Thanks for the great comments, I did weld that one formed small part on the lower section of the leg, that tab on the DXF is for forming which I cut off before paint (why it is not in the pics of the finished table). The purpose of that tab is to position the leg in the brake to touch the CNC backstop. Without, it would be nearly impossible to form this leg accurately because of the angles of the leg, require two points of touch off some distance apart. All steel parts are formed 3/16" except the slats.
Are the holes for the bolts cut by the plasma? If so, what is the smallest hole a plasma cutter can make?
Yes, they were cut with a High Definition Plasma, the small holes are 0.2" to fit 3/16" bolts. That's about the smallest I have cut, they seem a little ob-round but usable. Aluminum parts were cut with a Mach 500 Flow Jet. I have cut holes small as 0.1" with better precision than plasma.
Coming along. Unfortunately I went with a ebay gantry kit, not too happy. How smooth is running low ipm? What belt G2?
G2 belt, super smooth at all speeds, very happy with the belt. The belt system simplifies the entire build, my alternative would be rack & pinion, with that I would feel obligated to provide a tension mechanism to ensure the pinion gear would contact with the rack. With the belt, all that can be eliminated, just tension up the belt at the ends and motors can be mounted fixed.
I'm in process of putting a table together and love this design, did you make the plates for the motors or were those bought with the motors. Definitely going to get my parts together Thank You for the post Andy N
I know you mentioned in an earlier post that you plan on making a fume extractor to control dust. How much dust/fume is it actually making without any system? Can it be operated without it or is it absolutely a must?
It is an absolute must to have fume control, I run it without anything at the moment and my 60 X 30 shop already showing signs of plasma sediment on the walls and ceiling, the building has an exhaust fan that I run but it remains smoke filled for a long time after a cut.
This is a great and very simple build. Thank You! I found a local shop to cut and form the legs but they ask me what is the bend radius? Or may I have the bent SolidWorks file? Either will be fine, I just need to know how tight the bend is, Please. Is the bend radius the same for all of the other formed parts (sides & center support)? If not, what? Just to verify, the title of this build indicates "5-foot x 5-foot" I assume this is the distance between the outside edges front to back and side to side? Does this include the leg thickness or just to the outer edge of the supports? I assume the left & right sides and center support need to be shorter by the material thickness of the front and back supports (3/16" x 2), correct? Any chance you can upload images at the intersections of the inner corner and where the center support meets either the front or back support? What are the lengths of the C-Beams running front to back (2)? Side to side (1)? I'm ready to place my order with OpenBuilds now, just need this info to finalize my list. This is the best plasma table on the site, bar none! And thank you for uploading the Leg and Gantry Plate DXF files. With the exception of the few questions above, I can figure out the rest myself. Since I found your post I've been obsessing, I build a lot of 20's & 30's hot rods and I really need this table, it would save me a ton of money by fabricating my own parts instead of buying them. Thank you so much! Chris
If your into building all types of brackets, you can not go without a CNC plasma. The bend radius is 0.0312", should be dead on, the narrow tabs are to position the part to the brake backstops., I call it a 5 x 5 just because the C-Beam is that length, realistically I can get a 4x4 sheet on with room to spare
Below is the reply I got from my contract manufacturer on the bend radius so I think I am going with it. The minimum theoretical inside radius for .187” thickness (cold roll steel) is .125” (1/8) and the shrink will be .079”, the outside radius will be .187+.125=.312”
Forgot to ask, what is the height of the front to back and side to side "L & J" shaped supports that run between the legs? Please. Thank you Chris
The height and length can be whatever you want in for the side running lengthwise with the C-Beam, the other will have to accommodate the length of the C-Beam but that can be spaced with spacers so its a design that is adaptable to what works for you.
I'm making progress. I made a few changes to the gantry plates and I added straps across the bottom to allow for the water tray. Chris
While going through and adding the hardware (nuts, bolts, screws and tee nuts) I found an interference issue with the leg bolts closest to the bend. When the bolts were inserted they collide so, I moved them. Made end plates for the Z-axis C-Beam rails for extra support and to pretty it up. FInally, I inserted holes and hardware in the various metal components including feet. Next, I'm going to work on adding motors and belts. Chris
Yes, 1/4". I've been contemplating 3/8" for all the gantries but I don't want to over-engineer it or add the extra weight. From your experience what would you do different today?
I would extend the gantry side plates, get the wheels as far apart as possible on the rails to stiffen side to side play, thickness is fine the way I have it at 3/16", going 1/4" on the Z plate with those forms may have a tendency to crack during forming in my experience with forming aluminum. My Z works perfectly, copy it, my gantry could be stiffer but works fine, having a motor on each side of the gantry eliminates any stiffness issue, don't bother with limit or home switches, did that, took them off, just more wires and complexity.