I see no reason why not. The arms would maybe need to be extended, but even if the Y rails were attached part way under those Y rails it would be OK really. The big problem is the closed loop Z axis belt. At 100mm wider bed you'd need a 200mm longer belt (816). This 810 should work 784mm or 810mm 2gt endless belt - RobotDigg. In fact, I'm trying to get the time to build one 300x300 and offer it from my website. Actually I'm even considering having a detachable 90 degree angle from the front and top so it forms a box for shipping assembled.
Hi keith is there a way to export the green parts as a stl from sketchup of do you have them as stl files thanks for the great work
In Sketchup menu open the Window>Extension Warehouse.and search for STL EXPORT. Select the 3rd one down "Sketchup STL by Sketchup Team". Install it. The Export STL option will appear on the Menu>File group along with an Import option that can import STLs.
Thanks for the quick reply i did that and it exported as 1 big stl just wanted to print the green items out is there a way to just export the green items into a file for each i know i am asking a lot the reason i like your version so much is the 2040 v-slot i have a uncompleted dbot corexy. which isnt finished and my living arangments now i dont have the room. i didnt realise how big it is going to repupose the v-slot and parts to your build got it all only have to print that plastics cheers
Just figured out how to extract out of SketchUp mine will be for a plate of 250x250 the more I look at this printer the more I like it a lot
the stl export option exports only 'grouped' parts. If you have all the pars selected it will export them all in one file. If you click on each part individually, and you see it in the blue cube wire frame (indicating that they are a group), it will export only that part.
The best way to export a single part is to click on the part all the way down to where you have highlighted the raw part (outlined in blue with blue dots in the faces). That way you know you have drilled down through all the groups and components)
A 300x300 requires no changes in printed parts. Cut the 2 Y axis rails an extra 100mm long and extend out over the front. The Y belt does not need to be a closed loop belt. I use 200x300 beds in my shop and they are done this way. You might want to add a front piece bridging those two Y rails but it's not really necessary. Cut the 20x60 center bar 100mm longer and the top 20x20 rail 100mm longer and use a 900mm close loop belt for the Z axis. Add 100mm to the X axis bar when you cut it too. The X axis belt does not need to be a closed loop belt.
Hi Keith great work on the stl's thanks again can i trouble you if you have the time to post a couple of real-life photos of the bold of a link to some i am at the build stage just wanting to get a better idea the 3d pics are great but real time photos are good thanks in advance
Sorry Martin, I do not have any photos or vids of the Bold. I built it on request for a customer and didn't think to take camera to it before shipping it.
No worries Do you stock the mds nylon rod Carnt find anywhere in Australia And Amazon won't ship I can buy and ship to a us address then need somebody to cut into quarters and post to me
Martin I have 4 nylon rods that are already cut the right length. They are not the MDS, I don't use MDS on my own TrueUp glides, that was actually just for advertising since I had some MDS from another project. These are 606 nylon. Give me that usa address and I'll ship them.there, no charge
Mate thanks I'll get it now Here you go United States Name SM-2172-9584 MARTIN Thompson Address line 1 14601 North Bybee Lake Court Address line 2 Suite SM-2172-9584 City Portland State Oregon Zip 97203 Phone number (503) 736 5916 Cheers this mob will ship to me in Australia and I pay postage here Thanks again
Keith a very big thanks just got a confirmation email that auspost has them and are on there way. Just a couple of questions 1. the 8mm o/rings where do they go. 2. the 4 8mm locking rings for the threaded rod, what did you and where did you get them from I ordered what I thought they were and they came and the od is way to big and high to use thanks again
Martin The bearing on the very bottom of the 8mm Z screw is in a bracket recess. If you jab the pulley up against that bearing to keep it in place the pulley will engage the outer race of the bearing instead of the inner race. A washer is needed between the pulley and bearing that is the OD of the inner race. I use an o-ring. You cannot find washers that will do the job. But you can print one. 2mm high, 13.5mm OD, 8.5mm ID should do it. The lock collars are from Openbuilds. On my first one I didn't have any lock collars so I instead used 2 M8 metal nuts, one jabbed against the other for each lock collar. You probably will not need a washer between the bottom nut and the bearing inner race below it, nuts tend to be small enough outside size to fit the inner race
Hi Keith, I've been following your builds since I first saw the OneZ. The single stepper running 2 lead screws is what caught my eye. I think I finally have enough knowledge to give one of your designs a try. I like the idea of a 300 x 300 Bold. I will be taking my time and I'm printing off a highly modded Tevo Tarantula at the moment. How tall can I go with the Bold. I'll be using 2040 in place of the 2020's everywhere except for the front to connect to the 2 side pieces. Maybe overkill but I like it sturdy. Jim
Hi Keith I left a message about the stl's for the bold in the wrong discussion group. Sorry about that. Too many tabs open. Jim