You can focus the beam at a very low power setting. Looking through OD6, you may not even be able to see the dot though. I focused mine at very low power ("standby" power) with cheap green eye protection.

 

gents, really good advice. Thank you so much, I especially like the ramp focus idea

 

Hi,

I apologize if my question has been answered already... I tried the search function, but did not find any answer.

Would the ACRO system be a good option for a 3d printer, to move in the X and Y directions ?

In other words:
Is it accurate enough ?
Can we reach acceleration/jerk and speed settings suitable for 3d printing ?

I am working on a new project, and I have to admit that the ACRO system looks really nice and simple !

Thank you !
Jacques

 

Here are some pen mount projects that you may find useful for your ACRO. https://openbuilds.com/search/16228388/?q=pen+mount&o=relevance

 

Just got my ARCO system and need a recommendation regarding the Opt PLH3D-2W laser. All I'm ever going to use the system for is burning artwork into plywood wood surfaces, logos n such on furniture.

Will the Opt PLH3D-2W Laser be sufficient versus their PLH3D-6W-XF which seems popular with folks?

Also, is the best thing to buy directly from them at : CNC / 3D lasers - Opt Lasers

Finally, it will be hooked up to the CNC xPRO v3 driver (CNC xPRO Controller V3)

Anything else special I will need to connect (e.g adapters, kits, docking stations etc) and what wire gauge is recommended?

Lastly, I purchased the 24V power supply when I checked out. The PLH3D seems to be a 12V unit versus the PLH3D-6W-XF which is 12-24. Will I need to scrap the PS and get a 12v instead?

Thanks for insight from anyone.

Regards,

Craig

 

It’s quite a price for a 2W laser, but looks well made. A similar unit from Endurance is under $200 and he will set up the mount to fit whatever you are putting it on, if you ask.

But, for general engraving, etc. I would go for the 5.6W one - you will find other uses once you start and you will wish you bought more power. It is under $500, but not much. If price is an issue, I’m sure the 2W will be adequate, but you may wish you had more power sooner rather than later.

I cut paper and card and find situations where I wish I’d bout the 8.5W unit

You can use your 24V psu, as long as it can deliver the power (amps) you need to drive your mechanicals and the laser. Mine is 350W, so 14.5A is more than adequate for two NEMA17 steppers and the laser. Get a buck converter to drop down the 24v to 12v. I use an LTC3780-based buck/boost converter like these; LTC3780 | eBay

They can handle 10A and simple to use - wire it to your 24V DC feed and use a multimeter on the outputs while you adjust the screw until you hit the required voltage.

You really don’t need the CNC pro - you are only driving two axes.

An arduino Due and a GRBL shield will do an excellent job, and give you a range of firmwares to try out - like G2Core, Marlin, GRBL, and will set you back <$50

 

It’s only a 2-axis design. How are you going to raise your printhead? As to speeds and feeds, that depends on what you use to drive it - the mechanism can handle the stresses,

You could modify it to take a z-axis, but your working height is very limited. There’s a good reason 3D printers are tall.

 

Thank you for your reply, BNMaker.

The ACRO system would only be used to drive the X and Y axis, at the top of the printer. The heat bed will be moving on the Z-axis, below the ACRO system.
So the printer would be a "cube", with the ACRO system at the top.

I was wondering if the ACRO system can reach speeds around 50 mm/s, with acceleration around 1000mm/s/s, without skipping steps. If it can go higher, even better

 

I'm wanting to build an ACRO laser system to cut circles out of sheets of sandpaper. I have absolutely no knowledge of laser diodes. How powerful of a laser would I need to cut through sandpaper?

 

Thank you, Peter. I will give it a try.

I am currently moving out, so I had to disassemble my current printer. Since it has a big flaw (heavy heatbed moving on the Y axis), I thought about changing the overall architecture, while reusing current parts.
At the very best I will build this new printer in september, not before... I am already thinking about it though

 

Thank you Mark!

 

I am completely unfamiliar with sketchup. Maybe I'll give it a go one day.
In the meantime, here is what I started to work on, with the software I "know" (that's a bold statement):





This is a first rough draft.
I know, the four C-beam actuator are overkill, but I want to re-use what I have and that seems like the easiest option. Maybe I'll post a build if I get a sketchup, when it will look more definitive.

 

No problem.
Last request : could you provide either the blue prints of the ACRO acrylic plate set, or ideally a STEP format of the parts ? I tried the files that you provided in the Files and Drawings section, but couldn't use effectively any of these...
I redesigned the acrilyc parts that I need, but the dimensions are not accurate.
Thank you !

 

I can open the dxf file, but I can't measure anything on the drawings. The tape control doesn't seem to recognize lines, cercles, arcs, etc... so I can't measure anything.
Maybe there are options to extract these forms from the dxf files, but I don't master my software enough to do just that.

Anyway, I can live without the right dimensions ; the ones I have are close enough.

 

Has it been done, or Does anyone know if it’s possible to blow effective air assist using a 5015 blower fan?

 

You could get away with a single motor driving the other three with toothed belt and pinions. There’s certainly not much weight to move and once the four corners are dialled in, they will move in concert.

 

Rhinoceros and PunchCad can create STEP from skp.

 

I just got my new 20x20 acro built. I am using a L-Cheapo Mk6 10W laser. For some reason the drawings I am trying to engrave into wood are getting messed up. I am wondering if the default belts are skipping or maybe the system is moving slightly. I will be using this machine to engrave very intricate artwork onto knives. The knives are powder coated so the laser will engrave the coating and not the metal of course.
Just wondering how tight the belts should be. Or maybe I have them too tight. I made them snug but not too tight. Should I try clamping the frame to the table?
Or could this issue be a software related thing? I am using the xPRO v3 controller board and motors from openbuilds store. I ordered the whole bundle. Laser came from Robotics Everywhere. Amazing customer support.

 

I would say yes, clamp the frame to the table and try it again and report back. You might also try to burn some circles and squares and check for round and square and measurement.

 

Ah that is a good idea. I will try it after work today.

 

I've got the same machine and laser. I did clamp my frame to the table. My 10w came in an aluminum case, but started fading, it wouldn't run at full power. Matteo was quick to send me a replacement though. Mind posting pics of your setup? I'm developing an improved laser case/mount for the ACRO/L-Cheapo combination with air assist, and am almost done with it.

 

Another thing I was wondering about, is how tight should the small belts be that come with the acro system? I followed the build assembly video but it did not really explain what sort of tension should be on those small belts. I'm wondering if maybe mine are skipping.
I will post some photos of my build once I get it all working properly. Thanks for the help!