Hey guys-
Would it be possible to use 6mm thick plates? In europe its kinda hard to get plates with thickness in imperial dimensions...

 

You can use plates as thick as you like, you will just need to adjust the length of your through bolts.

 

Can I create all the plates needed for the sphinx with a stock c-beam plate maker? Can I make the plates out of aluminum or just steel?

 

Im thinking about making the plates at my local makerspace. Would it be possible to make the plates out of acetal or another strong plastic (I saw one guy on youtube with an acetal router) ? I think it would be easier to make them like that at my makerspace.
Kind regards
MS

 

Hello again!

So i did what Metalguru said/suggested and it worked. However i've runned into a big issue (i think). The sketch below is my cnc from above. Grey lines are the frame, bottom of the sketch is the front of the machine. When i built the mechanics to my machine (the frame etc.) and before going any further i measured it (the green lines) and it was totally square. When i mounted the c-beams i forgot to do the other measurements (red lines), which i measured today. And they are about 1cm off.. However the green measurement lines are still exactly the same (square).

Also.. When i drive the gantry back and forth it runs totally smooth.

Question 1: In my head when the green lines are exactly same on both sides, the red lines should also be the same. How is it possible that they arent?

Question 2: Is it possible to fix this without dissasemble the whole machine?

 

Of course it is possible, John! It's called a Rhombus. To have is all square you the angle between any two of your green lines has to be 90°. Normally, to fix it, you loosen the screws and press the two corners of the red line that are the farthest apart. You do it until the two red lines are equal and than you tighten the screws.

 

But the angles are all square.. Maybe i need to get a bigger/better square..

 

Squares don't necessarily stay square if they've ever been dropped. The big carpenters' square I have that was my grandfather's I've had to adjust back into square a couple of times using the 3:4:5 ratio triangle measurement. (i.e., I measure between the 12" mark on one side and the 16" mark on the other, if it's not exactly 20" it's not square anymore.)

Edit: and as for your measurements, even though your frame seems square if it's only half a degree out it will be measurable using your diagonal measurements. Trust the measurements, not your 6" long square. Geometry overrules tools.

 

Hi Kyo. On the build manual page 43, the rear X-Axis plates are different than what I received in V2 (from OX). They are a complete squre and have more holes. Am I supposed to use 8 wheels instead o 6 ? Is there any picture eo the assembly somewhere ?

 

On the build manual it shows 40T and 20T for the belt reduction on Z. However the BOM is showing 20T and 20T.
Is there a mistake in this? Should the BOM say 40T and 20T?

 

With Rev 2 plates, I purchased these online following the link on the main page of the build. They have arrived and of magnificent quality.

My question is how far back does the spindle go on the build plate/spoil board? What is the measurement from the very back of the spoil board to the center of the spindle?

How are you all facing your spoil boards to get it all machined flat assuming you are using MDF?

Can you reach all edges with a end mill to face the spoil board? If not, what is the trick on getting all of the spoil board faced off level?

 

Not sure about the plates, but I glued down a spoil board that is slightly smaller than the max working area of my router. Then you can face the whole thing, and once its gone, just glue another in place.
I use a 18mm router bit for facing with a facing tool path from fusion 360. Just be careful you don't have too much extension at the end of your tool path and it stays within your limits. (Limit switches are a great idea)

 

The spindle only goes back as far as it goes. You can't change physics. Both Y and X axis consume 170mm of travel. That's a work area of 330x330mm for a 500x500mm build.

It's my belief that the spoiler should ALWAYS fit within the travel range of the machine. Any larger and you can't surface the entire spoiler. Not being able to surface the entire spoiler limits you to material that must fit within the travel area, as overhang would not sit flat. As for the actual surfacing, I use end mills like these. I make a single pass at 0.5mm.

 

Hey, I've been looking at your set for a few weeks now and just haven't bit the bullet yet.
That being said, I have some questions and comments (don't take it as rude, i'm just genuinely unsure).
For me, with tax and shipping where applicable, my total is $64.67 less for the openbuilds set.
What are the benefits to your counterbored holes (I'm assuming this is referring to the 12 holes in the 2 "I" looking pieces)?
Where are the tapped holes and is there a benefit (does the openbuilds set not have tapped holes...their product description is fairly lacking in details)?
Is .6mm (less than 10% difference) going to mean anything in the long run?

Again, not trying to be rude...I actually didn't even know about the openbuilds set until your comment, but now you've piqued my interest.

 

I believe the counterbored holes are on the end plates for X and Y axes. The only threaded holes that comes to mind are to mount the steppers on the X and Y axes. I might be forgetting something though.

I got my plates from Chris and they are very nice and came together without any problems. Since I have never seen the ones from openbuilds in person I can't make a conclusive judgement.

 

For those looking.... you can find Sphinx Plates in our Machine Plates at OpenBuilds or you can pick up the complete OpenBuilds Sphinx

 

@Kyo I want to install a water cooled spindle but the mount it came with is big fat that is larger than the z axis plate. Please let me know if there are any options to fit this one on the OD of spindle is 80mm (std Hangyung water cooled 1.5 KW spindle) and mount is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDPFRF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Thanks. I have to figure out how to mount this one so I could make nice ones like yours . Probably just map holes to plate , drill and mount and make another set once machine is operational.

 

I make the plates one at a time on a custom precision fixture using 10 different carbide endmills and cobalt drills, chamfer and polish both sides and ship in 1 day.

The precision press-fit double counter-bored bearing holes keep the bearing from moving during heavy cuts and allow you to use un-flanged bearings, and also have a shallow counter bore so flanged bearings will fit flush to the plate.

 

@Kyo @Hayri PhoenixCNC Can anyone assist me?
I have finally (1 year after purchasing everything) started to put everything together, and have started to test/calibrate my sphinx. I am using the phoenix controller, 4 DQ542MA drivers and one meanwell power supply. Everything seemed to be working okay - set up limit switches, homing, machine maximum travel etc. I went to try out a g-code file that I downloaded that simply writes 'thomas' with a pen onto paper, to test my machine out. I received all sorts of errors and alerts and now I cannot do anything with the machine. I have tried resetting the controller, resetting my computer, but nothing seems to work. The stepper motors hold their positions, but as soon as I hit a command like $H, they do not turn (I can turn them by hand until they re-lock) and then throw errors and alarms. When I connect the controller to my computer, the controller immediately indicates an alarm state. I'm wondering whether some component of the controller board has died and is preventing the direction signals from getting to the stepper motors? Any suggestions or help will be greatly appreciated.

 

I am a noob and just finished building similar setup. If you dont connect motors and limits and reset tham in ugs or whatever gcode sender you are using, does board flash different axis lights ? If not may be reload GRBL ?
There are videos on you tube.

 

Temporarily disable soft and hard limits. Make sure you have something near to correct entered in $130, $131, and $132.

See if that helps.

MG

 

This is an amazing build, I'm slowly getting it together. I'm curious though why you chose to belt-drive the lead screw on the z? Wouldn't it be more efficient to connect the stepper shaft directly to the lead screw like the other axes?

 

If you are talking about the machine that is in the built section then the answer is to achieve a gear reduction to gain more torque.

 

Will this work using all non-flanged 688-2z bearings? the flanged ones are really hard to come buy in Australia.