Which GRBL lines are those?

 

$100, $101, and $102 = 199.1

 

Hi gang, I've finished my build and now it's time for all the hard stuff - solving any problems. The last one is a problem with the Z axis that results in a loud growl and uncontrolled movement whenever it is activated. X and Y axis is smooth as silk, but the Z is really a random mess. I've changed the stepper, the driver, I have even changed the BOB from the X pro to a BOB I was more familiar with and Mach3 software - no change. I'm trying to link a video of it in operation.

Any suggestions?

 

@stargeezer: Hi ... First I'd like to say that I am not an expert on CNC machines, however, I have a background in e.g. electronics engineering. And reading what you write:

I am thinking:

- might it be that the wires to the stepper motor are not correctly connected,
- or the impulses going either to the stepper driver or to the stepper motor itself somehow gets distorted? Again, treading carefully here, it sounds to me as if the impulses the z-axis stepper motor receives could be "contradictory" or out of timing - thus not leading to a controlled movement but noise and an uncontrolled movement ... Long wires? Wires that are not conducted/lead to this particular axis the same way as to the other two axes ... ?

Again, not an expert on CNC machines so just thinking aloud here

Cheers,

Jesper

 

It's been a while since I posted. I've spent about 40 hours so far troubleshooting this 1010. I'm sure it's my lack of knowledge (or just stupidity). I've torn down and rebuilt portions of the machine several times now to try to fix some of my cut problems (finding a lot of screws and nuts coming loose, then trying to tighten them and stripping out the heads or the nuts, arghh!). Can't figure out if it's the machine, or the controller, or the software because I don't know enough to determine where the problems are coming from; pretty much at a loss but just forging ahead trying to make do just so I can make enough parts to demonstrate to investors for my new business. I figure once I get my prototypes built I can take the time I need to fix these issues.I removed the Limit Switches cuz I couldn't get them to work and so they were just getting in the way so setting my Zero manually with every sheet that I cut. Wasted a few parts cuz the Z Axis would plunge into the workpiece unexpectedly while moving to the next location. So now I set the Zero position, turn the controller off to erase the memory, restart UGS, reset Zero, run a test of the toolpath without any tool to see if it does anything crazy, then if it looks good, power everything down again, restart, install the router bit, hit "play" and pray! There's about a 3mm variance between my CAD designs and what the Workbee cuts so I redesigned the CAD model with an additional 3mm gap between all the parts - but still getting fit problems which results in manually routing the parts to get them to fit. Not getting any "clean" parts cuz wherever I place a tab the bit cuts into part slightly creating a little 'divot' in the edge. I know it will get better but right now I have more negatives than I do positives.

 

Hi Keith ... I would first like to say that I am new to CNC so please take what I write as an "expression of good intentions" that do not yet have that much experience to draw on ...

However, when reading your descriptions of your challenges with the CNC I am thinking that if it were me I would try to make things as simple as possible. As it is I am also currently assembling a WorkBee and am using Estlcam (free to try - as I understand it it will just work slower from use to use until a license is bought, 49 Euros cost) and an Arduino Uno.

I Set it up yesterday and with a little help from e.g. people in this forum it now appears to work reliably. Needs adjustment and calibration but the axes are moving as they should ... And, again not having had the time to gain much experience with the actual use of the machine, the setup of Estlcam, the Arduino, wires etc. appears to be quite straightforward. As far as I can see no programming is needed. Just mentioning it in case it may be interesting to you.

In any case good luck with your endeavours

Jesper

 

Keith, I don't think it's a good idea to remove the limit switches. On my machine I have 6 of them. One on each end of the three axie! I don't use the limit switches for homing. I use them in case I ever have a machine runaway (never had one so far, thank goodness) or if I overzealously jog past the machine's constraints (did that a few times ). I always place my material in the middle, more or less, of the bed so I have to home it manually and that's why I don't use the switches for homing.

 

WOW! This has been a tough nut to crack, but as of 3am last night I finally have correct and smooth movement in all three axis. Turned out I had changed out a control board to fix one problem while another issue was hidden by a problem with a stepper motor.

Now I can move on to the limit switches.

Be well all and stay grounded!
Larry

 

Hey Larry, what was the reason for the control board change? I'm having problems with my Workbee and can't figure out if it's UGS or the xPro Controller (or even fusion 360's G-Code). I can't get consistent cuts when I run the same tool path repeatedly and my finished product is, on average, 3mm off from my design on diagonal cuts. I get unexpected plunges of the tool into the workpiece, etc.

 

Hi Keith, I confess to swapping the XPro for a different board just because it was an unknown factor for me. I was very familiar with the board I replaced it with and Mach3 and decided to eliminate a variable. Now that I have a working machine, I will back up and study the XPro. I must be clear about one point, the XPro was not faulty in any way, the swap was to only give me a board and software that had known qualities as I resolved other problems.

I've been following your problems and wish I could help. Are you cutting files you have drawn or are they drawings created by somebody else? The reason I ask is that if these are drawings that other people have cut with no errors, you can eliminate one source of errors in your cuts. Next, I'd make a few simple drawings to cut out, skip dovetails or gears as you troubleshoot, a square box can give you more useful data than a large drawing you can't find which lines are actually out of the relationship with another.

 

Hi

I'm starting a new build and been wondering between Ox and Workbee 1010. I might go with the Ox, but as I studied drawings for Workbee I noticed one part that that I can't figure out.



Part on the right, does it go on the corners of X axis?

As there are drawings for these builds I might as well have them laser cut and milled, I have metal workshop at my disposal and can have them make the parts almost at the cost of materials. Do they have to be 3 and 6mm aluminium? Stainless steel would be better, though using 6mm stainless would be unnecessary because of the weight.

 

Those are endcaps. Openbuilds has not released their version of the plates as far as I know, but Ooznest's original Workbee files are here: http://ooznest.co.uk/image/data/products/WorkBeeCNC/WorkBee-Files.zip

 

I found it on the drawings, thanks. That part is belt tensioner and unnecessary with screw driven router.

 

Hello all! I have been looking into a CNC router for a good while now and finally pulled the trigger last night and ordered a workbee 1010. Woot! I have some minor questions as I await my package to build.
I ordered the xpro controller, what are you guys doing for enclosures?
How much drag chain should I order?
Anyone have the bluetooth module on their xpro?
Sorry, I will lay off for a minute. Just excited to join you all!

 

Jonathon,

I used 2 meters of drag chain on my build. As for the enclosure for the X-pro, I 3d printed the mount for the workbee, from the ooznest plans on thingiverse. I also used their 3d printed parts for my drag chain mounts as well.

So the additional stuff I had to buy to complete the kit with 3d printed parts are

Endstops
more 18awg shielded wire, to extend the motors wires, as well as the endstops.
24v 30x30x10 mm fans for cooling the X-pro,
a 24v power supply (optional power switch for the power supply, and voltage meter display)
All the hardware necessary to attach the X-pro to the 3d printed pieces and and the v-slot.

I have added pics of the X-pro attached to my machine, please note it was upside down, so I had to flip it to get clearance. Last pic is of my machine on the table I build. All other pictures are of things I have cut with the machine. The brass looking thing, is actually an aluminum kick plate from Home depot, the coasters are walnut, and the clock is a vinyl record album.

Good luck with your build.

Travis

 

That is really helpful! Thank you Travis.

I will definitely get started on ordering these things.
Your projects are awesome too.
I am looking to cut a variety of things, but with Halloween a couple of months away I am looking to start with foam carvings of custom tombstones. Of course I have a pinterest list of other projects after I get some practice and things dialed in.
Would love to also add Laser to this unit in the future.

Thanks all

 

Hi Everybody!

I think this was asked earlier in the thread but unsure if there was an answer. Why are the high torque series NEMA 23s not offered as an option in the machine configurator?

Also, as a C-Beam XL machine owner, other than larger y-axis size, is the worker Bee considered a stronger machine?

Thanks!

 

Perhaps it's mostly about having a simpler set of choices? One could always buy just the mechanical package and then separately buy the higher torque motors with appropriate drivers and controller.

 

In my opinion, the higher torque stepper motors are not really needed for the workbee. Adding the extra current demands of the larger stepper motors may require the use of the 542 drivers, adding to the complexity of the build without any real gain in performance. I did build my workbee with the high torque steppers, but now have the lower torque motors on the machine. I'm very comfortable working with external drivers like the 542 that OB sells and originally built my workbee with them as I have with several other machines. I've been playing with the design to see just how light a stepper motor it will work with - so far the same motors I placed on a large 3D printer work fine. Don't worry about needing more power.

 

Ok everyone, I have it built, wired, and running mostly. I used ChilliPeppr to run it through its first movements. I was able to use GRBL Panel to set all of the parameters in the CNC Xpro V3 controller. I used a Sharpie clamped to the router clamp assembly. But when I ran the Gcode, I got the chillipeppr logo reversed, and on a much smaller scale. About 3.5 inches wide. When I use Chillipeppr to preview the actions it shows the tool scarcely moving within the preview of the logo. I am sure it is a setting somewhere that I havent found yet, I just havent figured out if it is withing ChilliPeppr or the GRBL settings of the Controller. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Hey Mark,
Do you have any problems with whip? Especially on the X axis. I am building a sphinx. The X axis had terrible whip until I put some tension on it.

 

Hi, I was told there is a video on how to assemble the Workbee 1010 electronics. I've searched your web site and YouTube and I can't find it. Could you give me a link to the video? Thanks Mike

 

the "OpenBuilds WorkBee 1510 Electronics and Software" video is essentially the same setup as for a 1010. in the 'Video' menu above, second in the list.
the 1510 is just longer on the 'Y' axis, but otherwise is the same as the 1010.

 

Greetings all,

With all the help I have received I was finally able to finished assembling my Workbee, I have not test it with an actual cut yet. I did run the Hello world Gcode and it's moving with no issues. I have noticed some movements on the Z axis, like if it was loose. (Wiggling) I made sure that everything is tight but it didn't seems it was the issue. Does anyone know how to fix this or it's a regular flaw with the workbee design?