[QUOTE = "Peter Van Der Walt, post: 72496, miembro: 69967"] Obtenga un controlador mejor que el TB6560. Explotan sin ninguna razón , así que apuesto a que ya ha muerto y por eso, a pesar de hacer todo correctamente, no se mueve.

También veo un poco de fusión / carbonización en los terminales de ese tablero [/ QUOTE]
hola no es carbonización en el terminal es del marcador
La verdad, no sé qué puede ser el motor, a veces se oye girar hacia adentro, pero el eje no gira.
Pensé que podría ser un problema de mala configuración.
este es mi motor
y si estás en la configuración TB6560


Nema23 - 23hs5628 Stepper Motor - Hybrid two-phase - 8mm shaft

 

Solamente tienes un controladpr del motor? Si tienes dos, ambos no se sirven?

Si busca en google TB6560 veras que Pedro dices sobre del esto controlador. La proxima generacion es TB66xx (no me recuerdo exactamente el numero) y son mejor con menos problemas.

 

I have a driver for each engine
but I want to move the engine now I do not know if I explain
Once the calibrated controller is in, I will move on to another phase
the problem now is that there is no way to spin the engine I do not give with the driver configuration more grbl

 

hi, i'm going to make cnc machine but don't know how to chose the correct leadscrew diameter ?
does any one know how to teoritical calculation ?

 

Is there any particular reason why there isn't a gantry plate design that is r shaped to maximise cutting space?
Crude mockup attached.

 

The wobbles, I should think.

 

In your opinion what path would you recommend I go to next to update my 1000mm x 1000mm OX that I built using the instructions in this thread to a more robust 1000x1000 beast mode machine? I'm thinking that I should follow the Openbuilds Leads project. I'm curious to know what will be throw away from my original build once I am on the upgrade path.

 

How is it failing you now? What would you like to do with it that you can't?

 

Too much flex around the gantry when cutting harder woods or doing light aluminum cuts.

 

Hello everybody!
I'm from italy and i've got an OX since a year.
I've had several problems that I've managed to solve, mostly related to the belt clamping system (placing a screw on the belt have damaged them and made them break).
Now I've got a brand new problem:
I've found that using a 1mm diameter mill, I've got a backlash of approx 0,5mm and it's really big and it creates a bad working error in my objects that needed small carvings.
I've readed a lot of posts in internet and found that my problem is related to the X axis eccentrics.
In fact, mine are at the loosest position (the wheels are at the maximum distance between them) but even if they're in that position, the gantry has not a smooth movement if I try to pull it by hand, if I just try to tighten the eccentrics a little bit, it does not move at all.
I've found in some older discussions that it's caused by the holes at a wrong distance so someone have enlarged them just by drilling.

And now there's the point:
I've readed someone suggesting to drill the non-eccentric holes on the plate and some other suggesting to drill the eccentric ones.
Could someone tell me what holes are to enlarge and what diameter should I use for the drill bit?

 

Thanks rick. What diameter will be good?

 

Following some other older discussions, I've managed to drill the non eccentric holes at 7mm diameter. It seems to be spool much better, I've got now the possibility to loose or tighten the wheels. Next step is re assembly the spindle mount and spindle in position and make some movements to measure if it moves correctly

 

Hi guys,

I am in the process of surfacing my spoil board. I have encountered the following problem: one of the X stepper motor screws got completely loose, and the anti-backlash screw and nut came completely out twice. I am using this bit https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9I773D?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title with this inexpensive router https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CQK4ZL4?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title which is super loud but works. Do you guys think adding thread lock is a must for those screws that are threaded to the plates or anywhere nylon washers are not used?
I am thinking that either or both router and bit are not completely true causing excessive vibrations. Is the dewalt router less noisy and does it run true? Has someone tried a water cooled spindle on the workbee? I would like to reduce the noise and cut down on the vibrations so my workbee doesn’t fall apart.

 

Thanks for your comments. I will apply blue thread lock then-it makes sense; I think it should be noted in the video/instructions as having screws and nuts falling off could be dangerous.
My workbee is not bolted down; it rests flat on heavy duty steel saw horses TOUGHBUILT Adjustable Height (25-32 in.) and Width (39.9-45.9 in.) Steel Sawhorse and Jobsite Table – 1300 lb. Capacity-TB-C700 - The Home Depot I haven’t noticed any movement. I would build a torsion box, but I don’t have a lot of room in my garage. In fact, my cnc hangs of a wall when not in use.
I will check my cheapo router again to determine if it in fact is causing the vibration. By looking at it, I don’t see anything wrong with it, but the shaft spins so fast it’s hard to tell. The instructions state that the dial set to 3 should be around 20,000RPMs which is what am using. I am taking 0.5mm (Home Depot 3/4 MDF) per pass with 40% step over at 333 mm/min. Bit is 1” diameter with a 1/4” shank.

 

I've just upgraded my OX CNC with the double belt mod. Switching the machine back on, I can move Z and X axis (X axis is a little rough sounding but this could be due to the double belt install) but Y axis just seems to stall. I've removed tension, but it doesn't seem to want to budge.
When I turn the machine power on, all axis lock (as in, I can't move them by hand, vs when it is turned off I can move all of them by hand)
In Universal G-code Sender, I receive an OK for every command, until I try and move either direction on the Y axis, at which point it stops responding to any command until I close and reopen the connection.
I have checked $$, and the settings appear to be correct.
Micro steps are configured to 8 still.
One thing I did do was I routed the USB cable through the Y drag chain, which I hadn't previously done. I have since undone this thinking maybe there was an issue with the signal on the USB cable.

I have tried replacement motors (no belt), having tested they work on X axis. They lock, but also do not turn on Y axis either, so I know my motors are fine.

This leads me to the xPro CNC itself as the cause.
Potentiometers are all central.
Lights on the xPro CNC when first powered on.
X - Orange
Y - Orange
Z - Orange
A - Orange

After moving Z axis
X - Orange
Y - Orange
Z - Red (-) / Green (+) / Yellow (-)
A - Orange

After moving the X axis
X - Green (-) / Yellow (+)
Y - Orange
Z - Orange
A - Orange

After moving the Y axis - / +
X - Orange
Y - Orange
Z - Orange
A - Orange

Nothing responds at this point until I close and reopen the connection.

$$
$0=10
$1=255
$2=0
$3=6
$4=1
$5=0
$6=0
$10=1
$11=0.020
$12=0.002
$13=0
$20=0
$21=0
$22=0
$23=1
$24=25.000
$25=500.000
$26=250
$27=1.000
$30=1000
$31=0
$32=0
$100=8.000
$101=26.667
$102=200.000
$110=2500.000
$111=2500.000
$112=2500.000
$120=50.000
$121=0.000
$122=36.631
$130=550.000
$131=750.000
$132=68.000

Any ideas?

 

Gary, you are a life saver.. It's working now. How did these settings reset like that?

 

I seem to be getting a lot of inconsistent movement now and it's affecting my cuts. I've tried increasing current to the motors up to the last indentation on the current pots, but I get this screeching / buzzing noise when I turn the power on.

EDIT: I reduced the wheel tension and it seemed to fix the cut problem, I've dropped current back to what it was originally, but now it seems I have yet another problem.. Part way through the cut the xPro stops responding.
I'm also having this low pitch buzzing noise sometimes from the xPro when I turn the power on, and the xPro vibrates. I first thought it was the fan, but after disconnecting the fan, the buzzing / vibrating still continues.

EDIT EDIT: Vacuum hose crossed over the USB, so I think static... moving the hose, no drop out, but the buzzing is still worrying.

 

No, I'm still having cut quality issues...
Here are some simple push sticks I'm trying to cut out on MDF. Previously these would cut out fine. 6mm endmill, 60 mm/s, 27K rpm, 4.1mm stepdown.

The handle is a little misshapen (and I removed the handle hole and added it back for the photo)
The problem is with the Y axis again.
Any ideas?

 

Have you checked the movements? Like move x and measure x? Move y and measure y?

 

Yes, that's the strange thing. X is totally fine, Y is fine most of the time. It's just some times Y decides it doesn't want to play, or when it does, it does it later than required, which can ruin a cut.
X moving 50mm moves 50mm, Y moving 50mm moves 50mm... sometimes.

 

Pick a side. Watch it intently and move the machine around. It is almost certainly slipping. Mark the pulley so you can see that it is moving smoothly.

 

So I've noticed the left hand motor on Y axis isn't locking. Looking at the board, the lights for that motor are out completely. I'm guessing this is related to the buzzing noise that started happening.
As for the test, the other Y axis motor seems to be moving the whole thing fine, which was why it looked like the problem went away.

EDIT: More details. The A axis is the one not lit up.

 

I screwed up the wiring on my Gradus m1 pro and wired both y motors the same way instead of flipping one. The two motors fought and the near motor won when I fried the other motor's driver. One can drive it but it will drag the other side along and will not be as accurate.