Also have the GRBL controller software but have to wait until I can connect things. For now it is not doing much! Would it work together with the Mk2/4 controller board?

 

Hi Bismark,

A lot of people are using the DWP611. I've shipped 8 of my OX mounting kits I designed for that router already, as well as 7 of my dust collectors for the 611. Quite a few builders are also using the Bosch Colt, Makita 700/701c and even the much larger Bosch 1617 and Dewalt 618.
I just got the first pictures today of one of my Router Mounts (for a Ridgid Trim) and Dust Collectors (and Gantry Plates) actually getting dirty! ...and from a guy who started his OX build only 1 month ago.

 

Chris, sent pm

 

Yes, you can cut the V slot rails on a table saw with a carbide tip blade. But you need to use at least 60 teeth, preferable 100 teeth to get a smooth cut without too much chipping. Try to make sure the blade is not wobbling, cause it will influence the precision of the cut. Cut slow and let the blade do its work. Not too slow, because that can cause heat build up in the profile and destroy the cut too. I suggest to cut just a bit more length then you need, and remove the remaining with a fine toothed file. You can use a precision square to get it perfectly square.

 

Does Openbuilds offer all the Parts for the Ox Build as a Kit?

 

Just to share some of my experiences, regarding the use of aluminum for the plates vs the garolite, I think the use of aluminum for the plates is overkill. I built my machine with the same garolite used by Kram, and was very impressed with how stiff the material is. Once you start bolting the extrusions and other bits to the plates, the plates become quite stiff.

The only area of the machine that I could see benefiting with aluminum plates would be the main Y axis plates. There is no support between the X gantry extrusion and V wheels.

On a related note, I think the main weakness of the machine is the V wheels themselves and how they are connected between the gantry plates. The tiny 5mm bolts that connect them is what will give you flex.

I could elaborate further (and I was planning on doing so in a Vlog style commentary, after I finish all the projects I've been working on), but I'm interested in what some of the others have to say about my 'experiences', although I think the people who started out with Aluminum plates are slightly biased

I would really like to hear from someone who has had experiences with both the garolite, aluminum (and other materials).

(PS. I think 5 mm plates would work just fine!)

-Clockwerk

 

Robert, I think you are the best person to answer this, but my eyes popped out of their sockets when I saw how much that mk2 usb breakout board goes for. Whats the benefit of using that as opposed to one of the many breakout boards you can find for <50$?

I'm guessing the main pluses are:
USB connectivity
No need for Mach 3 or other control software

I myself use the HobbyCNC Pro driver board w/ a max of 3A per axis. Downside is you must use unipolar steppers which have a few extra wires (my control box is MUCH messier than yours... envious of your meticulous nature)

 

I think you kinda answered for me there and if you factor in a Mach lic and the BOB your looking around the same cash.
I just got my Mk2 board today along with my stalk order of TB6600 driver boards
The only thing I can say is look to the future cause pp port is dead

Hehe I said pp

 

Hahaha, youre dirty.

I agree, pp port is dead/dying. Im surprised it has taken so long for the usb boards to catch on. I still feel that it seems pricey compared to other pathways. Im looking forward to hearing about your experiences with the board. I very well may switch in the future so I can make the switch to a bipolar setup and tidy up my birds nest of a machine.

 

Yes thats what it stands for. I do the same thing, have a dedicated computer for my machine. Mine didnt cost me anything as I had an old computer laying around. (A few actually)

 

a little update on my OX...
My Arduino UNO board came in yesterday (I am going to start playing with Arduino boards on the side - experimenting and such) and I decided, just for the heck of it, to hook it up to my gshield. So I uploaded grbl, removed the Seeduino board from my router, attached the UNO, plugged everything up, turned everything on, connected, and Viola!!! My steppers stepped So it was a bad Seeduino board (or just a bad match using it with the gshield). I am still going to use the TOAD4 board and EasyCNC software, but it is nice to know that everything works.

On the note of the TOAD4 board...
I received the pcb's and about half of all the electronics. Really itching to begin soldering.....

Rich

 

Im curious, as ive never used an arduino (own one but never got around to it) about how much is an arduino setup like that going to cost?

 

I started my build of the ox sizing it to 900x1500. After putting together the x gantry assembly I found that the x gantry has about 1.5mm bow to its length. I tried bolting the two rail together and it helps a little, still more than 1mm out. Any suggestions or should I just order two more 20x60 rails to see if that helps.. At 20mm thick I'm sure the y gantry would flex horizontally as well. Perhaps the vslot rails aren't sturdy enough for a mid-sized cnc router?

 

I am using an Arduino Uno, GRBL Compatible CNC Shield and 4 DRV8825 Stepper drivers (3D printer style), that cost me around AUD$40 including delivery. All sourced via eBay.

 

Just share my little mods for OX.
size 100*75cm

-Z gantry uses 4 pair of wheels
-Z screw has selfmade axial bearing block, with douple deep groove bearings. Screw is polished M10 screw with adjustable POM nut.
-X-profiles are glued together for torsional rigidity, I visited local Aluminium ship builder and asked about glue they use to bond aluminum together.
-Y-profiles have 6020 profiles in L-setup to bring rigidity
-Underneath of scrap plate is 3mm aluminium sheet to keep frame in nice 90 degree angle.
-Z-gantry is flatten in as much as possible, from center of tool to X-profile is 90mm.
-Milled recesses to plates to get rid of motor spacers, now axels reaches inside pulleys much better.
-AW-FSE 1600W 3000-30000 rpm spindle, really nice and silent.
-Electronics are really std stuff, cncshield, DRV8825 etc.. just packed them into aluminium box and put buttons top of it.

I flood some pics, hope you are interested.


I was little worry about rigidity of machine, but I was relieved as I took pretty nice cuts with plexiglass.

Thanks for inspiration and nice tips. Chris Laidlaw provided awesome plates.
Getting all stuff in beginning was bit of job.

Cheers//jukka

Btw. I use Estlcam as CAM software. I´m very pleased with it, really nice value.

 

What kind

What kind of glue was used for the beams?

 

That's great.

I was thinking about wider (taller) stance for the Z wheels as they seemed in a tight formation. The 4th set of wheels achieves this. Not certain an extra set is needed, just the taller stance should be enough, right ?

How did you make the Z block (4 start thread no ?)

So, what is the magic glue recommended by the shipbuilders ?

Using a spindle, rather than a router, certainly helps in making the Z flatter. Routers tend to be "fat". The spindle also offer wider speed range. I might regret getting a router for myOX ...

Looking forward to your progress report.

 

To glue aluminum you can use epoxy. We used to glue winches on boat decks. It's a bit of meticulous work but pays off. The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Building, page 138;
"Aluminum has always been difficult to

bond, but simplified surface preparation systems have

made the task somewhat easier. The first step usually

uses an acid wash solution to etch, clean, and mill the

surface. The second step, generally an alodine conversion

coating, stabilizes the aluminum and minimizes

the corrosion that may form upon contact with air

before you apply the epoxy adhesive. The WEST SYSTEM

860 Aluminum Etch Kit contains all necessary ingredients

and complete instructions. If you use another

surface preparation system, carefully follow the

manufacturer’s instructions."

Here's the link to the pdf http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/GougeonBook 061205.pdf

If done correctly the bond is permanent and very, very strong.

Hope this helps.

 

Hello


For routers this is my 1st experience, as starting point OX seems pretty nice. But example when I looked Shapeoko videos and how it cuts .... I just dont want to end up anything that lightweight, not even nearly.
Well to be honest I might also estimated cutting forces bit too high. Anyway I´m really interested on rigidity, its still biggest factor how machine will perform. If consider to reach true accuracy from edge to edge better than 0.1mm with reasonable cut values. After steppers resolution there is not really that much room for flexing. But thats really interesting to see lateron.

I guess 3 wheel pairs is also ok. I just wanted support to spread more longer distance than 60mm, it will better fulfill thumbrule of 1:2 for Support:Arm. And that 1:2 is for bearing slides, dovetails etc.
As I got nice plates from Chris adding one pair was easy compared to readjust all positions. center to center for each Z-wheels is 30mm and plates have room to put 4th pair about 28-29mm from 3rd. meaning that you can drill full hole to edge of plate.
Also flattening of blade center vs. X-profile carry same idea about to minimize momentum due long leverage.

Z-block. If you mean Bearing block I just cutted it in lathe. Screw itself is Polished M10 also it needed bit lathe work for recess and M8 thread. Structure is pretty similar than Ballscrews in bigger machines.

I´ll update glue type when I find the cartridge. Anyway glue is not epoxy. Its more near stuff car mfg´s use to glue different aluminum chassis parts together.
Just bear in mind that X-profiles have ~ 0.5 -1 mm gap between each others. So you need to apply glue which has some gap filling property, and I propose at least 30min open time.
Perfect fitting and gap width is most easiest to achieved when you assemble whole package together and adjust everything while glue is still not cured.
If just glue profiles against each others unassembled, I´m afraid wheels wont really match grooves afterwards.

//jukka

 

Simson ISR 70-03.

 

Quick Question for the group. Do you use micro switches on both ends of your x,y, & z Axis?

 

Also, anyone using the CNC xPro, do I need to make any changes on the board with the jumpers for use with the ox?

 

Yes and wire them in parallel this way if ether one trips the corresponding axis limit will trigger

 

Dang.... then I need to order more parts again! lol

 

Where did you get yours?

 

You need some?

 

Open Parts Store. I actually saw a Printable Switch on Thingiverse.com but I want the best quality.

 

No I'm good was just asking as I have 4 extras sitting here just no mount plates

 

Nothing can stop a 3D printer