Hey just curious. I recently ordered the lead CNC machine, everything on the bundle page except for the out of stock NEMA 23 high torque motors. After reading many post I’m starting to question the ability of the Xpro v4 board and being able to use the 23 high torque motors. Will the motors be limited by the drivers on the v4’s board? If so, how much? I’m looking to use the machine to cut multiple types of material including aluminum. I’m just wanting to double check because my order has not yet been shipped and if I need to do the mks3/4 board with the 542MA driver then I’ll call and change it. Or can I reliably hookup external drivers to the Xpro v4 board and get the most out of the motors? Thanks
The XPRO can deliver up to 2.5A, the High Torque motors are 3.0A, for optimal use with the high torque motors, refer to Hooking Up External Drivers to the CNC xPRO V3 (at the time of writing, Spark Concepts has not provided an updated article for the procedure for the V4, however it is even easier as the pinouts are now on screw terminals on the V4) for adding DQ542MA drivers. If you are looking at the MK3/4 checkout Blog - PlanetCNC for some examples of the interesting things it can do too
So I can basically just get an Arduino and upload the open builds software and that’s it. What’s the major differences between openbuilds v4 board and an Arduino board? What Arduino board would be the best?
The difference between the Spark Concepts xPro v4 board is that It had drives integrated within the board. This eliminates the need for external drives. There are many boards out there offered by Pokeys, SainSmart, Ethernet smooth stepper, or Arduino based systems (CNC Micro-controllers). Many of these will need their own software such as UCCNC, Mach, etc. The nice things about the Spark Concepts controllers offered through open builds is that you can use them with the Openbuilds G-code software easily, which is a cheap and easy solution. The Spark Concepts boards can also use external drives if need be! Which makes them extremely universal controller if integrating larger motors is in the future.
And, no wiring knowledge needed... For well versed hackers, the bare arduino is great, but most folks, find that daunting, the little bit you spend extra saves a lot of time, headache and potential for failure...
If you want an easy turnkey solution with good documentation get the Xpro or some similar integrated board. The Xpro is essentially a Uno with drivers built onto the same board. If you want a more robust modular solution and are prepared to do some learning and a fair bit of manual wiring and making decisions about the best way to wire stuff together then use the external drivers and a plain arduino , a uno will do. With my Workbee I use grbl firmware on the uno and UGS (universal gcode sender) on the computer to send the instructions. IIRC that's the same software setup many people use with the Xpro. It's a good vanilla starting point - there are other options. There's no complete instructions out there in one place, but this video shows a good start on DQ542 wiring drivers to a uno. In fact it shows a few different methods - rather more than you need to get going. However understanding all the methods helps you be clear about what the hardware can do. UNO GRBL DQ542MA Wiring Methods The external drivers are definitely a better solution, but as above posts have mentioned it is definitely more work. On the plus side you'll understand your system better if you do the learning. It depends a lot on how much time you are willing to spend learning about the hardware before you start cutting anything.
If you get an Arduino you can use the Arduino IDE software to load GRBL onto it. You need the software for the drivers to run GRBL and it makes installing GRBL to the board a lot easier. The major difference between and GENUINE arduino ($23.51) board controlling external drivers and the Xpro is about $125 more for the Xpro ($149.99). The best Arduino board is a genuine Arduino board because for an extra $6-10, you know it will work. I have never had any of my genuine Arduino boards malfunction. The one Chinese clone Uno I purchased (Sainsmart brand) for my CNC failed within a month.
Hey guys thanks for all the info. Just saw email with shipping notice so hopefully by the weekend machine will be in. Just a few questions, I’m waiting until I receive the kit to build a table for it. Want to make sure I build for what the layout is. Are there any tips on the tables design, like how heavy duty/rigid, castors no castors, wood or metal? I know a lot of that is going to be based off what my plans are for the machine, but I’m just trying to get ideas from those of you who have built something and realized afterwards either this or that would have been a nice feature. Also, does the machine have brackets to mount to a bench or is it even advisable to mount to bench. If so what would be the best method to do it?
well a Lead CNC is quite similar to a workbee if I understand correctly. On my 750x1000mm workbee I found: * Make the table as flat as possible so it supports the machine without putting any stress on it that might push it out of square. I'm using 25mm MDF on top of an old firedoor for my table top, so it is both heavy and flat. * Mount the machine up on some sort of shims that support the extrusions well, but also so that you can get a hand and/or a small spanner underneath to adjust the eccentric nuts on the wheels, clean up the chips, and pick up any T-nuts you push off the back of the spoilboard (that is if you use T nuts in the back of the spoilboard) - In short it is really useful to have access to the underneath of the machine. I haven't yet felt the need to actually bolt it down, but i'm making fairly slow light cuts, 3D carving small pieces. If /when I try to cut 18mm ply at speed with sudden corners and so on then I might bolt it down.
