Thanks this is good advice - especially on just turning off hard limits for a bit - I forgot I could do that and still use homing. I also just got back from a vacation to Denver, so my relax-o-meter has been reset anyway. I'll follow up with some more test results and info on the relay once I get some time to mess with the machine again.

 

I ordered my LEAD in parts over the last month. When I opened my wiring kit today it has the older 2-lead wires and limit switches. The old video seems to be gone showing the wiring and limit switch setup for the older kit. I have the black box but can’t sort out the limit switch setup without some documentation, and the new YouTube video is only for the new kit.

 

how did you run the spindle mount screws in from the back? did you have to take the mounting plate on the cnc4newbies off of the z axis to do it? you just used the 2 screws?

 

No I didn't take the mounting plate off. I just held the cnc4newbies against the lead mounting plate and used 4 screws to secure. The two 20mm hex head that come with the cnc4newbies kit:







And two 10mm on the bottom:


There is zero play in this. Feels so solid.

Hope this helped. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

Thanks. Thats what I ended up doing as well. I also emailed cnc4newbies with a picture of what I did to confirm that it was setup correctly. The only issue I had was that the 2 screws cnc4newbie sent bottomed out in the OB router mount before the were even close to be being tight. I ended up using 2 of the screws off the OB z axis to secure instead. Got it all done now, moving onto the wiring.

 

I want to say that happened to me too. The screws bottoming out. I think I just used whatever I had leftover from the Openbuilds Z. Nice idea sending them I picture of yours. I didn't think of doing that. Glad you got it to work!

 

I've got a little rotational play in my Z axis and not sure what the best way to resolve it is. If I grab the spindle mount from the front there is a little clockwise and counter clockwise movement that is not getting fully eliminated by adjusting the concentric spacers. They wheels are in as close as they get and it dials it out a bit, but there is a good millimeter of movement here.

 

What plane/s is/are the movement/s in? Difficult to put into words but if you are looking from the front of the machine does the router mount/ bottom of Z axis move left to right, back to front or does it rotate when looking from above? Like you I can't think of anything obvious apart from eccentric adjustment. Is this a new machine or has it put in many hours of use?
Alex.
Just spotted your spoiler board thread - apologies in advance for asking a really obvious question, but are you sure you assembled the V wheel correctly with shims between the bearings?

 

Crude drawing below, but this is a new machine, and I do believe it was all done correctly, but I will triple check.
The drawing is more of an after thought, but the arrows pointing to the the wheel contacts is where the problem is. In reality the wheels are in the channel but even with the eccentrics fully closed they are not making full contact. They are centered into the channel spacing wise just fine. The bottom of the z-axis moves left and right radially because the wheels are not fully engaging into the slot channel. My first thought is the top left v-slot wheel is flawed and the wrong diameter, but that doesn't seem to be the issue.

 

Update on my grounding issue:
The BlackBox itself wasn't grounded as well as I thought it was. I had moved it to a parts tray and grounded it with an alligator clip, but I relocated it back to being screwed in to the back like the original design.
I changed my grounding on the vacuum hose to ground both the upper and lower hose (I have a join).
I grounded the machine to a floor ground instead of an in-wall ground.
Those fixed most of my problems, but false limit triggers would still crop up sometimes.
Ultimately, I took the advice here and disabled hard limits. They were useful while I was learning and getting things set up, but with my macros and programs now, it hasn't been a problem.
I may revisit it at some point with shielded cables and upgraded switches.

 

OB Team - I'm thinking about ordering another LEAD kit. Is it possible to order it with the upgraded limit switches?

 

Alright, ive moved on to the wiring portion of my build. Off the bat i am missing the female/female connectors that go in between the male 4 pin blocks for the motor and the 4 wire cable. Dont have any of them. So i went on to putting together the power supply. Got that done but was missing a 2 pin block that connects in the front. Not sure how many of each connection block I am supposed to have? I have 5, 4 pins, 4, 3 pins, and 3, 2 pins. That doesnt seem correct?

Anyways, plugged in the psu and the switch lighs up but the open builds logo does not like it shows in the video. Is this an issue? Would be nice if it lit up for me, but if it works fine, ill get past the cosmetic issue.

I did just email customer service about sending the connectors and 2 pin block out to me. I just hope im not missing anything else.

My motors and wiring kit were on back order when i ordered the machine so had to wait on the updated wiring kit to be ready. Could that be related to missing parts?

 

Okay, I will check it out when I get back home from work this afternoon and see what it is switched to. Thanks!

 

This fixed it thanks!

 

So im starting to put my micro switches together now and thinking the wrong self tapping screws were included? They look much bigger than the m3 that are shown in the video. Should I go ahead and use these?

My entire wiring kit has been a cluster thus far. Customer service has done a great job helping me out and getting the parts I need, but so far if these screw are wrong it is day 3 out of 3 i have been working on the wiring kit where I have been missing or now have the wrong parts.

 

Already done! Rachel has been killing it over there for me! Going to stop by the hardware store this afternoon to see if I can find something comparable I can use.

 

@jamin35008 what color wires did you put where on that z axis limit switch? None of the connectors are labeled on the limit switch?

 

Nope, all good there. I upgraded to the cnc4newbie z axis, so I am not using the OB limit switch for the Z

 

Well thats a good idea as well!

 

I have updated my CNC router at home to my version of LEAD Machine. The only difference is that I used 20X80 V-Slot rail instead of 20X40 V-Slot rail and I fastened the machine to a table after putting a pegboard on the table. I 3D printed some things that align the boards to be cut so that one corner is at XY coordinates of 0,0. I'll post pictures of the machine after I finish updating the machine. It looks like the Part Store isn't open on weekends. I ordered cable chains and some other parts yesterday afternoon and they didn't ship the parts out. I have questions about the gantry plates with two ACME lead screw nut blocks on them. Should both nut blocks be "tightened" or one nut block be "tighened"?