The machine moved very slowly compared to before towards bottom left corner and then the Y axis hit the end of the machine so I did the emergency stop, the head position is now at X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
OK, go back to settings, system editor and edit homeall.g - I've listd it in full below, but all I'm asking you to change is some of the feed rates (Fnnn) ; homeall.g ; called to home all axes G91 ; relative positioning G21 ; Set units to mm G1 S1 Z94 F500 ; move quickly to Z axis endstop and stop there (first pass) G1 Z-3 F500 ; go back a few mm G1 S1 Z94 F300 ; move slowly to z axis endstop once more (second pass) G1 S1 X1500 Y1500 F500 ; move quickly to X and Y axis endstops and stop there (first pass) G1 X-3 Y-3 F500 ; go back a few mm G1 S1 X1500 Y1500 F300 ; move slowly to X and Y axis endstops once more (second pass) G92 X550 Y520 Z94 ; Set Home Position please change to your machine size. G90 ; absolute positioning The ones I want you to change are in italics. When you have saved those changes put the machine somewhere in the middle and then try homeall. Alex.
the machine moves slightly and the head position is indicating x550 y520 z94 even though the machine is still in the centre
Yes, homeall is running, so it comes to the line; G92 X550 Y520 Z94 ;Set Home Position please change to your machine size. - which sets where the machine is now as the home position for machine co-ordinates. When the machine size is set in config.g that tells the software how far away from where the home position has been set the limits of the machine are. If home is set in the middle of the machine it thinks the X and Y limits are beyond where the framework ends - be ready with the emergency stop! It is not doing the G1 moves beforehand (G1 = move at specified feed rate - Fnnn) We had determined that it would do a G1 move at F500, so I was hoping homeall would do the G1 moves if we slowed it down. still thinking .................. Alex.
Hi @Gina Botfield, could you go to settings (I think it is then machine configuration or similar) - where it shows you whether a limit switch is currently being activated. Press each of the limit switches in turn and make sure the correct indicator on the Duet Web Control reacts - ie X switch = X indicator etc.
Hi, when we press each limit switch the endstop hit changes from yes to no on each drive, each drive corresponds to the correct limit switch
I have think I have solved it, it was the limit switches. I have not done part of the configuration hereConnecting, Updating and Configuring Your WorkBee
That may indeed be the problem - if your limit switches are wired as normally closed. Once you have checked the connections on the limit switches, and changed the setup for normally closed switches if that is appropriate I will be interested to know if things work correctly afterwards. However, you will almost certainly want to change that in future - there is a very good reason for using normally open limit switches - Z and XYZ probes are really easy to make if you have normally open switches. It is not difficult to change things if you can handle a soldering iron and I'll talk you through what to do when/if you want to do that. Alex (fingers crossed)
It works Alex I can't believe it would work just be changing a 0 to a 1 but luckily it looks like it is all working correctly. Homing like it should, I have turned it off and on again and I did need to change the head positions to x550 y520 z94 would I need to do this every time it is switched on? do I need to change any of the items we have changed previously? Thank you soooooo much for all of your help, I have hopefully learnt a few things but will definitely come and find you if I need any more help. Actually I would like your opinion on which software to get thanks again, you can have a very well deserved cuppa now
Pleased to hear that @Gina Botfield. When you turn your machine on you should homeall and the head position should read X550 Y520 Z94. You should not have to change anything yourself. You should be able to change the feed rates back on your homeall.g file in the sys directory - they were originally; ; homeall.g ; called to home all axes G91 ; relative positioning G21 ; Set units to mm G1 S1 Z94 F900 ; move quickly to Z axis endstop and stop there (first pass) G1 Z-3 F2400 ; go back a few mm G1 S1 Z94 F300 ; move slowly to z axis endstop once more (second pass) G1 S1 X1500 Y1500 F2400 ; move quickly to X and Y axis endstops and stop there (first pass) G1 X-3 Y-3 F2400 ; go back a few mm G1 S1 X1500 Y1500 F300 ; move slowly to X and Y axis endstops once more (second pass) G92 X550 Y520 Z94 ;Set Home Position please change to your machine size. G90 ; absolute positioning Also I strongly recommend changing M 564 back to disable jogging without homing - unless all axes are homed the machine doesn't know where it is or where its limits are, allowing you to crash into the ends/sides if you are not careful. As far as software is concerned I use Fusion 360 - free for non commercial use, steep learning curve, very powerful software but it does everything from design to creating the G code file for your machine. Others swear by Sketchup - I believe there is a free cloud-based version. There are many others out there, including some free offerings from Openbuilds, but they tend to favour GRBL users (99.9% of hobby cnc'ers. The Duet is based on rep-rap (think 3D printers) and the Ooznest version doesn't even follow that protocol exactly. Please confirm that your machine is setting machine home at X550, Y520, Z94 when you switch the machine on and homeall. Alex. Once you can confirm that everything is working as it should be (after you have changed those feed rates back) I'll let Ryan Lock from Ooznest know the problem is solved.
Yes, I have now turned the machine back on and clicked home all and it has gone back to the correct head positions. Thats great then, thanks again for all of you time and help I really appreciate it
Another software brand is Vectric - they do a range of 2 & 3D programmes - expensive, but users say they are very easy to use. Alex.
Yes I have downloaded a trial of Vectric and it does look quite user friendly, I also downloaded Fusion 360 but that does look more complicated to me but having said that I would prefer not to pay at the moment as I am such a novice so will be giving Fusion 360 a go, any hints and tips will be welcomed
I thought that about Fusion 360 when I started using it seriously in February. You can see some of the things I have designed in it at; HalifaxAlex's Thingiverse Profile. I am still only scratching the surface of it though and don't fully understand what I am doing. However, with help from fellow forum members I have recently modified the post processor (creates the G code files for the machine - (Semi) automatic tool changes with Fusion 360) so it looks more daunting than it is. Alex.
Thanks again Alex, I am going to be mainly carving names and numbers at the moment so very basic I hope, I am sure I will be back for more advice soon though
If its within your budget Vectric would be ideal, but also look at Fengrave (F-Engrave) - it's free! Alex.
I have not heard of that one, I will go and have a look. Do you know of anywhere that references which end mill does what? I was going to buy the end mill starter kit from ooznest but didn't know if I would need most of them so decided against it, Gina
Wise decision! The bits from Ooznest are good quality but expensive - you will make mistakes to start with and break bits before you have worn them out. Look on E-bay for end mills (2 - 6mm) for cutting things out, milling pockets etc. For general woodwork get some cheap router bits from Toolstation (make sure they have a cutting edge on the tip so will cut down as well as sideways) (last time I checked Screwfix were not cheap). You didn't say what you are using as a spindle - if it is a 1/4" router look on E-bay for a collet adaptor so you can use 1/8" bits. For very fine work get some (cheap Chinese) V engraving bits. Alex.
Thanks Alex, I will go and have a browse and see what I can get. I have got the DeWalt D26200 router and mount, so would need the collet to change to the 1/8" if I wanted any of the finer V engraving bits that helpful to know, Gina
Hi @Gina Botfield, I believe you can get a genuine Dewalt collet adapter, but they will be expensive. If you search Ebay for collet adapter you should find a sleeve that will fit inside your existing collet. Alex.
I did and wish I hadn't lol Cheap Chinese bits will do me whilst I get used to all of this..I'm a Vectrician and its super easy to use but at a cost. I've been following this thread. Alex was my goto Guru when I first started so glad he was sticking with your case. all the best Regards C
Thanks Colin, I have seen your build since I had my issue and after I built mine, I wish I had seen it before I think I would have got it done in half the time, good to see what you have done with your spoiler board too. Yes Alex was a godsend over the weekend I was tearing my hair out, thinking I had done something wrong, in the end I had... but to be fair my partner and friend also read it wrong so I won't blame myself too much and will be back here if ever I have any more issues. Just need to get my bits and software sorted, get the machine out of my kitchen into the garage and then I am good to go, fingers crossed lol Gina
Collet adapter Collet Adaptor Reducer Bit CNC Router Tool Shank Reducing 6.35mm to 3.175mm | eBay 1/8" engraving bit router tool adapter for engraving collet In UWUK | eBay Engraving bits for very fine work 10X 10 degree 0.1mm engraving drill bit CNC router tool V-shaped alloy PCB board | eBay Alex.
Thanks Alex, saves me getting all the wrong ones blimey they are very fine bits. Are these ok for the cutting out and milling pockets 6pcs 2-6mm 4 Flute Milling Cutter HSS End Mills Engraving Tools ?
