I would be very interested in hearing your results!

 

Just printing version 2 - version 1 didn't quite work.
Alex

 

What is the idea your shooting for Alex? Is it like a seat for the router that would fit into the router mount?

 

No - a plate that clamps to the Z axis C-beam with screws passing through it to press on the underside of the router mount.
A bit like this (if it works)

Alex

 

The idea is to hold the router mount in position while you tighten the fixing screws after you have trammed it. And possibly provide a micro-adjustment while tramming.
Alex.

 

If it works I suspect an aluminium version might be more durable!
Alex.

 

When tramming are you guys loosing up the screws by the yellow arrows or something in the back by the red arrows. I have the cnc4newbies Z so there isn't anything I can adjust in the back and to bad Alex's tramming mount wouldn't work for me

 

I will be loosening the screws holding the router mount to the Z axis - can't see from your pic how that works with your set up - on my workbee the router mount is held to the Z C-beam with angle brackets.
Alex.

 

The newbies Z attaches with two screws through back of the newbies plate and into the router mount so I cant make adjustments there. My only option is to tram by loosing the front of the mount.

I would have to check out if this is even possible with my set up but was wondering if adding another router mount would be beneficial? Both in rigidness and tramming?
Extra Strong Double Router Mount

 

Correct (as always) - my gadget is only for the final check on the router mount to Z axis alignment as I couldn't see how - on the workbee - you could accurately adjust this bit without at least three hands!
Alex.

 

Peter, what is the best way of checking that the Z is in tram with X/Y?

 

Wow, that's slick! I've never seen that before. Learn something new everyday! Thanks for sharing that.

 

sounds interesting. Definitely interested if it works out! Now if people would quit using our 3d printers at work for work things...

 

I dont think our cnc4newbies Z has another set of threaded holes to be able to add another mount like that. I am at work though, so I cannot confirm at the moment.

 

Also at work. I was thinking if the double wide gantry plate could mount somehow to the cnc4newbies then the double router mount to the plate....maybe it would be possible?
C-Beam® Gantry Plate - Double Wide

 

Concept worked - gadget didn't work well enough - plastic not rigid enough.
See;
Tramming aid
Alex.

 

Yesterday I ran a test of clock file I’m working on for my Dad. I bought the clock face file off of ETSY. In certain parts its giving me really crappy looking Roman Numerals and what appears to be two tool paths even though I double checked the file in Vcarve and its only one. I’m carving with a 60* vbit.

I even tried creating my own vectors to see if it was the file but it happened with the circles and numbers I created in Vcarve. What’s weird is it only happens within certain numbers and in certain parts of the circles. It’s not happening in every carve. Thinking that it was the machine I checked that it was calibrated X,Y and Z and I trammed it the best I could.

The clock I’m making is going to have a road map carved in the middle and I tested that file right before doing this and it turned out great. I test that cut with both a 20* and 30* engraving bit.

I don’t know what the problem is…. The only thing I didn’t have time to do is try a newer bit. Anyone come across anything like this?

The photo with the Roman Numeral III is one of the cuts that looks okay.

Edit: Someone on Facebook suggested that it looks like backlash. I will be checking my Y screws when I get home to see if either one is loose. I mentioned to him that its possible that what it is because the bad carving is happening when there is more travel in the Y direction. Like on numbers 5,6,7,11,12,1. I will update when I get home and can see if this might be the correction.

 

Well, I found out what was wrong last night. One of the Y screws lock collar was semi loose causing the slip/backlash when the carving was relying more on the Y axis.

Can I add blue lock tight or something similar to the small screw on the collar to help prevent it from loosening again?

Photo is same file as before but after tightening.

 

I actually may have a simple solution for tramming. Going to model it up when I get a chance and post it here.

 

Post it in resources if it works @gregers05 - we get lots of queries about tramming.
Alex

 

Would something like this work? 3D printed tube that rests on the waste board and the router would rest on top of the tube.

 

Agreed
The thread below has turned into a discussion on tramming and further posts there will be welcome.
Alex

Tramming aid

 

Thanks! This turned out to be correct.

The machines vibration had loosened some of the lock collars and they had slid back from the end stops. I also tightened the drive couplers. After that, backlash was reduced to about .003" - .004", which works for some applications, but is still more than I'd like.

Does anyone have more backlash pointers or resources to read up on?

I have some optical encoders that came off an old machine at work that I was considering trying to implement, but I think that would require a change in controller, firmware, and UI software unless there is some grbl magic I haven't found yet. Does anyone have experience with encoders that could point me in the right direction to learn more?

Finally, I saw some tools out there that attempt to pre-process G-Code for backlash comp. Does anyone have experience with those or one they'd recommend?