Thanks! All very good suggestions.

Regarding the wheels, I have had a lot of trouble getting all of the wheels to make good contact, and it is hard for me to reach the eccentric nuts now that the machine is fully assembled with side panels. For example, the wheels that make contact with the X from the Z are not tight in the back since all the weight is on the front with the spindle. I just went back and watched the assembly video again where he explains the wheels should spin some (it looks like under light force), but not freely. By that definition, most of mine are too loose (spin freely) or too tight (very hard to spin manually). Also, when it comes time to replace the wheels, should I look into metal ones?

 

Is it possible that my X gantry could be slightly off causing tramming issues?

I went a head a purchased a second router mount and set up my machine like this idea that Medalguru had Extra Strong Double Router Mount

Even after adding the second mount I'm still finding that the router is off slightly. If I were to put in a large surfacing bit it would be creating steps towards the front of the machine. The bit is lower towards the front.

Should I use a square to see if the X gantry is square to my waste board? I did surface the board months ago and I didn't have any steps then. Or should I try shimming the Z axis with thin sheet metal or washers to square?

 

Very good video Peter. I did make a version of the poor mans spindle gauge and it works very well.

I feel by adding the second spindle mount and still having the same tramming problem in the same direction as before my X gantry maybe slightly off. What might be the best way to adjust the X gantry? Should I loosen and try and move, loosen and try and move, loosen and try to move kind of thing while I'm testing the levelness with the spindle gauge?

 

Perfect! I will give that a try when I get home tonight. Thanks Again!

 

Well I got home loosened the x gantry and adjusted, trammed, re tightened and now when I test the spindle gauge it is as close as its ever been since I started measuring for tram. Great I thought......

I then decided to measure some distances and see how square everything was after this adjustment and everything looked great until I measured the x gantry from the waste board to the bottom of the x gantry C beam. I got a 1 mm difference between the left side and right side. I'm low on the right side.

Some thoughts are going through my head...

1. Was this difference always there so when I surfaced my waste board it just matches the difference in the x gantry?
2. Is this difference new and now I'm just tramming my router to match the new difference in the x gantry? Which I don't think I want to do.
3. Should I be measuring the X gantry from something other than the waste board even though its been surfaced?
4. Try resurfacing the waste board again?
5. Leave it alone because it only a 1 mm over the whole X gantry and trying to fix that might create more problems.

 

My LEAD has been working pretty well so far. I'm a bit disappointed in the z height available, and I've dug through some old posts on from the WorkBee and others. Looked at the Cnc4newbie z-axis upgrade, but really I just want to get another inch up from the surface, there is plenty of travel, I just want to get 2" - 2 1/2" stock underneath. It seems the easiest thing to do would be to increase the length of the 20x80 on each side by a little bit to gain this height. What am I missing about just replacing these cut an inch longer?

 

I think that it is possible to replace the 20X80X250 extrusions with 20X80X500 extrusions. Before cutting the extrusions, put 2 1/2" stock in the machine, raise the Z-Axis as far as possible, insert a bit in router or spindle, temporarily fasten the extrusions to the machine, leave about an inch of space between bit and stock, remove the stock, and lower Z-Axis as far as possible. The bit should touch the waste board. If not, you'll have to replace the 40X80X250 C-Beam and lead screw with 500mm parts.

 

I've been sitting here cutting away while building dedicated cart table for the CNC and I had a thought. If I anchor the machine to the bench I can remove the underside 40x20 beams and drop the spoil board onto the bench top below. This would give me 40mm of additional height without really needing to do anything.

 

That sounds like a plan. Only thing I wonder is what the tortion effect would do (if anything)? Those rails probably do more than keep the height at a bare minimum.

 

You guys that are running the makita router, what are you using for dust boots? I originally planned to use the 2 piece magnetic one I found on the projects page, however it hits the Y axis rail a few inches before it gets to X0 position. I am going to try to modify what I have but curious to see what everyone else is doing.

 

Anyone add anti-backlash nut blocks to their x and y or are they only useful in the Z? Also I just got my Lead 1010 up and running, it runs well and square but when jogging from the front to the back in the y axis i get a fairly loud screeching coming from the screw on the right side of the machine once it hits about halfway. Anyone else experience this? Thanks for any help

 

Also, anyone add end stops to the x and y, currently running blackbox and think it would take some of the stress out of jogging

 

@Rick 2.0 Thanks for the help Ill give that a shot tonight wasnt sure if that was necessary or if i was just putting a band aid on an underlying problem that someone else may have come across

 

Use a DRY lubricant @Jdubster3d (silicone or ptfe)
Alex.

 

I would like to add extra limit switches to X & Y axis as well. My questions are can I hook them in parallel to the existing limit switches or do they need to be hooked in series? Also, will the extra resistance do any harm to the black box?

 

Normally open switches wire in parallel, normally closed wire in series. The only extra resistance is the wire between them - you will struggle to measure it with most multimeters so it is definitely nothing to worry about.
Alex.

 

Thanks a lot. I really appreciate the quick response. Now if I can remember I have to refresh the page, I could reply back faster. I plan on using telephone wire (6 part) for the wiring so that should do the trick without taking up too much room. Now if I can get this black box problem solved - but I have to wait till tomorrow to get an answer back from the parts people. Black box reports it can only find smoothie firmware and then shuts down the connection. Life is full of opportunities...

 

Awww that makes sense! Thank you

 

Thank you for the info guys and such quick responses

 

Is there a way to test the boards? Which board has the firmware? I have never had any power going to it but the USB. Could I have burnt out anything if I had incorrect wiring on a stepper motor or limit switch? Only thing I can think of that is possible is a DOA board. I'm sorry to be rambling. Frustration is controlling my thought processes.

 

Sorry about that. FNG