Sorry i tried searching but didnt see anything, has anyone come up with a way to attach the spoil board without have to be underneath it? Thanks again for any info

 

Also, sorry for all the questions just trying to get everything dialed in now, I built an enclosure but the bottom of it(where the Lead sits) isn't perfectly flat, i built it out of a 3/4" piece of plywood. I am using the rubber feet from the openbuilds part store but not all feet are touching(when i assembled the machine i assembled it on our granite counter top so i know it was assembled flat). Has anyone used any adjustable rubber feet to take out the unlevel surface or should i come up with a way to build a perfectly level platform to set the machine on?

Thank you!

 

please let me know if i should be posting any of these questions in the general forum, thanks

 

I'm having my 14-year-old grandson help me build the Lead Machine; in an effort to show him there a other ways to spend free time away from the black hole of video games, watching YouTube, and glued to the cell phone. However, in my haste to cut the 20x40x1000mm V-Slot, one of the 962mm pieces ended up being cut at 959mm, 3mm short of the required length. Can the machine be built using the 959mm V-Slot and trim the correctly cut, 962mm V-Slot to match the shorter 959mm V-Slot?

 

I am probably the wrong person to try to help anyone but the answer I believe is yes. You will need to make sure the lead screw doesn't extend too far out as to be caught in clothing, etc. However, if it does, 3 mm is not much to cut off a 5/16" (8mm) rod.

 

Thanks for your response. I'll give it a try.

 

Sorry for the late reply, thank you for the help. So how do you locate the t nuts from under the spoil board? Do you use the machine to measure out the locations of each drop in t nut then drill the holes?

 

I'm building the leads machine and have a big problem with my X-Axis. I'm trying to adjust the wheels on the C-Channel, and one of the wheels will not adjust to the proper pressure against the C-Channel. In fact, the wheel will not come in contact with the channel. I had no trouble adjusting the two "Y" channel's or the "Z" channel, but one wheel will not touch the channel. The other wheels on the "X" channel adjust fine.

I have reassembled the "X" Axis carriage twice, changed the eccentric spacers and am still unable to adjust the area properly. Do you have any suggestions on what I can do to fixt this situation? Is it ok to contact you directily like this?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Rod

 

Can you take a picture of both sides? That way I might be able to see something you don't. It is so easy to look at something for so long and never see the wrong thing that is the culprit.

 

Just received my Lead Machine parts from FedEx. Still working on my table so the parts are going to have to sit for a while. If the packaging is an indication of the quality then I'm in very good shape. Both boxes are extremely well packaged and tight with extra cardboard padding on the corners. So excited to get this build going. I have a smaller format CNC from another vendor that I am really quite happy with but needed the larger capacity the lead provides. I will keep the smaller one and use it for my laser work.

 

Ok I've watched all the install videos and I have put a similar one together before - only two things I've noticed in the main build video to watch out for - install the light ring while installing the router mount so I don;t have to disassemble it later to add the light ring, and run the router cord into the drag chain when doing the wiring. Any other gotchas you wish you had done first? I do plan on using lock-tite blue to secure the screws - especially the motor mounts.

 

Here is the small parts box - extremely well packaged

 

Where do you recommend the router power cord be run?

 

I am using the limit switches provided by Open Builds. I am a tad bit confused about the stepper motor wiring and limit switch wiring to be separated but yet run through the same cable chain?

 

Thanks for the answers. I think I have the idea now.

 

Extra parts ordered before I begin assembly. Just waiting on the black box controller and some small parts to secure the machine to the table I'm currently building for it.

 

In regards to the EMI questions- I've used metal braided sleeving on 2 machines. It worked well on the LEAD machine because I was able to remove the wire harnesses on the OpenBuilds pre-cut wire lengths and feed through the sleeve, then cut the sleeve to length with standard scissors. Everything still fit in the drag chains correctly. I havent had any detectable crosstalk or EMI like events.

Metal Braided Sleeving | EMI Protection

Its described as 'superior' for EMI protection, flexibility etc. I bought from Electriduct (candy store for cable management products) but there are plenty of other options on Amazon. It can be pricey but it was still cheaper than the 4-wire shielded cabling I have used in the past. I ran all 4 stepper motor wiring and limit switches through. You could also sleeve your router wiring with it, I have 2 of the dewalt 611s and the main line in can be easily disconnected and then reconnected after.

 

is it possible to fit 80mm spindle water cooled 1.5kw or 2.2 on this one ?
bee have some 3kg limit how i read
thanks

 

Has anyone developed a solution for using two Y axis limit switches to square the x-axis to the y? I can envision a couple of different ways to do it, but before I embark on any I thought I would ask here.

 

Have all my parts after receiving my blackbox and upgraded limit switches in the mail today along with a few spare t-nuts and L brackets and screws to mount the machine to the table I hope to finish up tomorrow and then it's time for assembly.

 

FWIW I have all of my cables ran together and havent had any EMI issues. Might pop up later or maybe I got lucky, but I hate wires, so having them all together nice and clean helps my OCD.

I would also double check location of limit switches. The build videos tell you to put them at X0Y0 (bottom left), but apparently you really want them at top right?

Check and double check to make sure everything is as square as possible throughout assembly