Hey guys!

Iam about to purchase the lead cnc but working on power to the shop for it. Will a 20amp breaker be sufficient to run everything? I can run a 30amp but cost goes up quite a bit doing that.

 

I've never had an issue with mine on a 20 Amp. You may want to try and run more than one circuit though, just to isolate cnc electronics from dust collection/shop-vac that can draw a lot on start-up and keep separate power for a computer or laptop. Plus having another circuit helps if you want to run any additional tools or sanders without interference while the CNC itself is working. Power for fans to keep comfortable and music for the inevitable hours you will spend are important considerations too!

 

Can the Solid V Wheel Kit be used instead of the Xtreme Solid V Wheel for the
LEAD CNC 1010?

 

Thank you Rick 2.0.

 

Ok - two questions from a newbie - when running carves in Offset mode I see a faint depression at the corners when the bit changes directions - it ends up being a noticeable line that runs @ 45 degrees from each corner toward the center of the project - once the corners meet it is a straight vertical line to the top 45s. It is typically easy to sand out but is annoying. Is this backlash and I should adjust the backlash on the Z axis - or is it perhaps a couple issue where the Z Screw attaches to the motor? I bought my lead1010 with the high torque motors - how can I be sure I have them set to the right driver voltage on the black box? I have not adjusted them at all.

 

I would double check to make sure all the couplers are tight connecting the lead screw to the motors. I had one come loose on my z axis the other day where the z axis would move, but would slip on the motor shaft when it changed directions and throw off the height. However, if this was your issue, it would continue to be off for the rest of the program and not just in the corners. I also have the high torque motors, but have not had this specific issue. Have you calibrated the motor steps?

 

I'm about to hook up the Jtech 2.8 laser to the lead but before I do does anyone know if its possible to incorporate a more powerful CO2 laser that detaches like the jtech products can? Are there even CO2 lasers that can be mounted on the same unit as cnc or are all CO2's stand alone machines?

Was thinking of returning the 2.8 and getting 7w so it would be capable of cutting through 1/8 wood material but if a CO2 was available maybe it would be better to go that route.

 

Thanks Giarc. I can see why they would need their own gantry.

Whats the most powerful diode laser that can be mounted to the Z? Is it the Jtech 7w?

 

My high Z Mod has arrived and I have begun assembly. I have gone through the install video several times. My implementation is going to be slightly different with the X Axis on the center instead of the top. The one question I do have is about the limit switch on the Z Axis. The video shows moving it to the top position. I'd like to keep it on the bottom and have the homing cycle continue to be front - left - down. This should not require anything more than extending the wires for the Z limit switch correct?

 

First impressions of the High Z Mod - this thing is robust and stiff as all get out. Talk about a solid feeling X and Z gantry. No movement at all on the Z Axis when attempting to move it by hand. I only just got it together yesterday and only used it to cut t nut holes for my new spoil board but I am very impressed.

 

Hey guys!
I've been using the LEAD CNC for a while now, and based on this experience I've started to compare its design with WorkBee CNC and C-Beam Machine XLarge. There are a couple of things I'm wondering about:

1) For X and Y carriages the basic double-wheel assembly of the C-Beam Machine XLarge is: 6mm spacer, wheel (11mm), 9mm spacer, wheel (11mm), 6mm spacer - 43mm in total. This is the spacing between the Gantry Plates. In both LEAD CNC and WorkBee CNC there are additional precision shims increasing the distance to 45mm. What was the reason for changing the design? I couldn't see a clear benefit.

2) The X carriage of C-Beam Machine XLarge includes four additional 43mm spacer assemblies (1mm shim + 20mm spacer + 1mm shim + 20mm spacer + 1mm shim). Their purpose, I guess, is to strengthen the X-Z axis connection, and to stiffen the X carriage. However, neither LEAD CNC nor WorkBee CNC use those. It seems that by increasing the part count only slightly the carriages could be made noticeably stiffer against torsion.

3) It's a pain to have to adjust eccentric nuts in pairs - I can never get all wheels tight the right amount. Have you considered splitting the long screw joining the double-wheel and eccentric nut assembly? By removing the 9mm spacer in the middle, each wheel and eccentric nut could be put on a separate 25mm screw, allowing all eccentric wheels to be adjusted independently of one another. One downside would be that the bottom parts of the Gantry Plates would no longer be connected. This could be addressed by adding long spacers (item 2 above).

 

Lead 1010 with High Z Mod - noticed when working on my new spoil board I had two issues. First was the way I had my router power cable run. When the machine would move to the left the power cord would end up hitting the X limit switch effectively stopping the job. A Simple L bracket with a spring was the solution (pics later when I get home). I also noticed that the C Beams on the Y axis on both sides had moved up from the cross beam on the front despite my having the cast corners seated properly and tightened down, they seem to come loose fairly easily. I have some V Slot brackets I want to use to stiffen up all four corners that I think will resolve this problem and keep them from separating again. This should avoid the bigger issue of leveling the spoil board with the slight incline on the Y Axis (again - pics to come after I get home tonight and make sure it works.

 

Ok - so my idea of using the plates I had to better secure the corner connectors didn't work as the holes do not align. I will have to come up with a different solution - I do have an idea in mind using the cross v slot (where you place the 2 end caps) and creating a bracket that will fit there as well as having holes to attach to the C Bean end plate where it is pre-drilled for M5 screws. Since the end cap holes are offset from the v slot holes I will have to create a custom plate.

 

So I made some new plates with the C Beam end cap holes offset and it works great. Everything is lined up properly and stays in place. I used the self tapping screws for the v channel and some M5 10MM screws for connecting to the C Beam end cap. I 3d printed the plates using black ABS filament.

 

Below is what I had in mind. The bottom eccentric nut + wheel pairs are split. In each pair one wheel and nut is held by a M5x28 low profile screw and a nyloc nut. The other wheel and nut is held by a M5x30 hex head screw, a slot washer, and a nyloc nut. This way every eccentric nut can be adjusted independently, and each wheel can be tightened the right amount.

 

I'm currently putting together a BOM for my LEAD cnc build, and wondering if the following combination of stepper/drivers is appropriate, and what performance I can expect from them.
Stepper Driver - S109AFTG 3A 40V - Maker Store PTY LTD
Nema 23 Stepper Motor 1.26N.m (6.35mm shaft) Version B - Maker Store PTY LTD

I'm a little worried at using such a cheap driver, but the specs look fine, and being from makerstore, I'm guessing the quality is much better than ebay/aliexpress? I really don't want to have to buy $70 drivers if these ones will perform as well for those size motors.
Also, what can I expect to get out of those motors? Will they handle aluminium OK (I don't mind if I have to go slow)?

 

Is this a problem?

I have not yet added the c beam end mounts. I’m pushing and pulling the lead screw and it seems to catch a bit. I can’t see any obstructions.

I bought the lead 1010 kit and never assembled it. I then got the high z mod kit and am trying to put it all together for the first time with the high z... so that I avoid building the original lead 1010 and then have to disassemble and modify.

 

In the high z mod YouTube video, around minute 40, I don’t feel like I can get the lead screw that secure. It’s pretty darn secure, but not as firm as in the video. I’m not sure what is meant by his suggestion of changing the orientation of the pitch. I thought it maybe had something to do with the anti backlash nut, but tightening and loosening that didn’t seem to do it. I’m not sure if I should just proceed with the tiny amount of slop in the screw.

 

He's talking about any play against the lock collar. So if there's any play, you need to loosen the lock collar then rotate the lead screw a bit so the grub screw sits on a different/nicer part of the thread.

There should be zero slop with any part of the motion, but you need to first put on both the lock collars before you can properly test it. Is there still slop after you put on the lock collars?

Regarding your wheels catching, my first guess would be too tight eccentric nuts.
Another option is that the bolt holding one (or more) of the wheels to the plate are too tight. This will also cause them not to run smoothly.

 

Can anyone comment on whether there is a significant benefit for building a slightly smaller machine (750x750). There should be less sag in the lead screws, less chance of whip, and overall it would be a bit stiffer. But is any of this even noticeable? I feel like 1000x1000 is more than I need, but the $$ savings is not much for a 750x750, so it only makes sense to go with the smaller build if it gives a more robust machine.

 

Can anyone also comment on the difference between the Openbuilds version of the LEAD CNC and the one being sold by Makerstore here is Australia. At a glace I see that parts like the precision shims aren't used in the Makerstore version, and also there is only 2 2040 support rails instead of 3 (and I'm sure there are other differences too if I look deeper).
It looks like the Makerstore version is the same one that sold on Aliexpress by Bulkman3D etc.
I was thinking of just buying the kit from Makerstore rather than trying to source all the parts, but now I'm wondering why there are different versions

 

I was referring to Makerstore, which are based in Australia, not Aliexpress. Are you saying that the Makerstore just resells the Chinese clones? I certainly hope not...
If that's true then I may as well just buy one from Ali unfortunately, because its far too expensive for us to buy direct from Openbuilds, they shipping is a killer to Australia

 

From https://www.makerstore.com.au/about/.

So they certainly claim to be official distributors. And the cost is definitely not low. A LEAD CNC is about AUD$1400 from Makerstore, and about AUD$700 from Aliexpress.
My concern was that if Makerstore are just a Chinese importer, then I may as well buy direct and save a lot of money. In fact, even if they are official distributors, its really hard to justify paying double to to get it locally, as much as I would prefer to support local businesses and those that designed the system/components.
I'm running out of time to figure out what I'm doing so I can take advantage of all the sales going on!