I added all the current fusion 360 & STL files I used for this upgrade to the Files and Drawings tab as MF10i3v_Upgrade_191209.zip. I did not include the files that would probably be different for other people, like Electronics mount and carriage mount. Please note that if you are NOT using M8 Leadscrew for your Z-axis, the Z-axis motor mounts might not work for you. They might be the same offset as the original ones that use the M5 threaded rods, but I did not verify this. Let me know if I missed any files. I am finished working on this machine until after Christmas.

 

Thought I had read that you weren't supposed to have your belts too tight, but after watching this video I redid the design of my X & Y Belt idler tensioner to get more movement for tensioning them & it did make the prints look better after making them really tight. It almost took all the waves out of the X. I have to work on the Y axis some more now.


Here is what my X & Y axis idler design looks like now. I changed the Y idler a little more than in this screen shot to just make it shorter.

 

That is good to know. I will back it off a little bit from being really tight.

 

I finished my 3d printing I needed to do for Christmas, so started adjusting some parts on it. I redid my Z motor mounts to make the 8mm Leadscrew offsets easier to adjust. I used the idea from the Y motor mount. I initially made the base as thick as I did on the y-motor at 11mm, but adjusted it to 9mm. Originally I had the Z mounts at 6mm thick base. That extra 3mm makes it sturdier. I recessed the M3 motor holes so I could use the same length screws. Since I am not using a heat bed, I added some .5mm cylinders around the corners so it would stay flat with also some added glue stick. It stayed nice an flat & looks really good, so I am printing the other one. I will add these new files to another zip file after I install them & make sure they do work. Here are some photos.

I also played around with Generative Design in Fusion 360 this week since it is free. The only project I could think of at the moment to use it on was the cutting profile of the 10" aluminum 3mm thick plate on my printer. I initially gave it the whole square bed to start from, but it didn't look very good, so I gave it the starting point of the cutting profile I had created. I used some aluminum beds on line as a basis for my cutout. For the test loads on the design, I used 5.0 newtons with a safety factor of 2 at all areas I preserved in the design. Most of the load is probably where the wheel holes are, but thought I would make it simple to start with. I am not familiar with these units, but from what I read that is probably overkill. Maybe I should try 1 or 2 Newtons to see how much more it takes out. Since I plan to cut this on my CNC, I used 2-axis cutting as the manufacture method for 3mm thick 6061 aluminum. Looks kind of interesting. On the 2nd image I overlaid the starting shape which is blue lines on the finished design. If someone has some better load numbers to use, I would be interested in knowing them.

 

Before taking my Z motors off, I decided to make a plastic part to get the offset distance parallel along the Z-axis for the Leadscrew. Now that I have the Z motors & leadscrew nut holder adjustable this should make it a simple task to get them right. I started this modification after printing a tall vase, it seemed one of the leadscrews was starting to bind when it got to a certain height. I am hoping this will fix that problem.
I am printing 4 of these so I can set both leadscrews at once. I added some M4 holes in case I need to clamp these parts in place while tightening the mounting screws. Here is what my gauge looks like.

 

Cool. Glad the upgrades are working for you.

 

Not sure I would recommend my carriage. I didn't allow for those eccentrics properly in that had those holes countersunk, but wasn't really a problem with plastic. I cut an aluminum carriage for mine & added 4 holes for future mounting of the Hemera. I would look in the maker Farm i3v group on thingiverse for one. Here is the link. Maker Farm I3V Group's Things

 

Let me take a look at it with a model of the Hemera attached in Fusion 360 first to make sure it fits ok. Will see if I can upload it in next couple of days.

 

After pulling the Hermera model into my design I realized it wasn't going to work as it was so I spent a little time on redesigning the mount & think this will work. It should take M3x15mm screws to mount it or you could use M3x16mm with a washer. Take a look at the STL file and screen shot of the design & see if it will work for you.

 

I have never had a print cooler on my printer before & finally decided to design one after not finding one that would work for me. Teaching Tech had a video on using the online simulator to test the air flow on these which was good timing for me. The simulation looks pretty cool. I uploaded my design to: Titan Air Manifold Print Cooler by GeoDave

 

I thought S3D was the slicing program Simple 3D? That does not do design does it. I used to use Draftsight Pro (2D) & openscad (3D & final model) for my 3d design. I now mostly use Fusion 360 & occasionally Draftsight to work out 2D geometry. There are a lot of good youtube tutorials on using fusion 360 & it is free for hobbyists. I still occasionally use openscad for things like threads which fusion 360 does not do a good job at allowing different tolerances for. I thought there were more designs for the Aero than the Titan from what I saw, but I didn't look at the details of them.

 

I wasn't looking specifically for fusion 360 models, just models to get ideas from. Although fusion 360 or step models would have made it easier. Have you looked at Grabcad.com? You can get a free membership there & I have found that a very good source for step files of designs. Some designs have only solidworks designs though.

 

After a friend suggested using a tubular grid to create a laminar flow, I decided to try 12 small 2.5x3.5mm elliptical holes for the outlets instead of the 3 slotted air holes. Simulation looks a lot better & hopefully I can test it today. I also made the air flow wider angle from 198 degrees to 264 degrees. Here is the simulation.

 

I tweaked this print cooler design a little more. The simulation was showing 2 outlets between the 2 intake tubes were not getting as much air with previous design & after printing & feeling the air underneath that was the case. A few days ago I was going to add another smaller intake tube between, but couldn't get fusion 360 to work with it. After revisiting that problem I got it to work & looks like it fixed that problem, but outer holes might not get as much air now. I did increase the transition 1mm bigger diameters to be just a little larger, but didn't run a simulation on it. I wanted to go 2mm bigger, but transition fillets will not work well with constrained distance. I could adjust the angle of transition to get bigger diameter, but then it is a sharper corner at the top.

 

The Fusion 360 file might be too cluttered to upload, but will upload a STEP file. I am pretty happy with it so far, but had a bright idea this morning which I had to see if it would work. I decided to see if I could make it like an exhaust manifold giving each nozzle its own supply tube. The 3d Sweep paths were most of the problem, but think it looks pretty cool. I changed it from 12 to 8 nozzles as 12 would have been a lot more trouble & made the nozzles the same height but a little wider. I found creating the 3d paths a lot easier in Draftsight & exporting the dxf to fusion 360. I have to redo it to see if I can get rid of a couple of problems the simulator doesn't like & add the bracket mounts. Here is what it looks like so far.

 

I lowered the manifold because the airflow looked too cramped. Simulation looks really good to me, so I am going to print & test it.

 

Air flow feels pretty good & water test looks good to me. I made a test bracket plate to hold the manifold cooler on top of the bowl of water. I didn't want to test this mounted to extruder in case the nozzle accidently hit the water and shorted something out. I might finally be ready to put this project to rest.

 

I updated the files on thingiverse & added the fusion 360 files to both the horseshoe & manifold design. I added 2mm more adjustment height for titan mount as the manifold design as the height came out 1.7mm lower than previous design. I cleaned up the fusion 360 files & renamed most of the sketches to make it easier to tell what they are for. I also cannot seem to get the bottom of the manifold design's bottom as level as I could the horseshoe design. I do like the look of it better.
Here is the design link on thingiverse: Titan Air Manifold Print Cooler by GeoDave

 

I really liked that manifold idea, but it was a little bigger so I had to revisit that design & think I fixed my problems. I changed the manifold from 1 into 8 to a 1 into 4 & then split from there. I gained a little extra space & also changed the wall thickness from 2mm to 1.8mm after looking at a test print comparison. I went from 6mm holes in the top manifold to 4.3mm holes to 7x2.5mm nozzle openings. Looks like I have more velocity than previous design.

 

I had another idea yesterday to lay the 2 outer pipes on top of each other thus shrinking that part of the diameter at that part of the design. I tried the design 2 different ways. 1st one was making the transition from 6mm to the 2-4.2mm diameter pipes directly & the other was to add air space (Plenum is probably what this is called, 2nd air flow image). With the simulation you can see the difference. I get more air flow to the last outlet with the plenum. Thought I might have a tight clearance on the e3d hotend fan, but there is plenty of room. Might have one more adjustment to make. Comparing this design to the horseshoe, I had a 45 degree downward thru those 3 feed tubes. I was angling down from higher up with that design & giving me more clearance which is beneficial with the bed binder clips attached. I will see if I can change that.

 

After tightening up the bottom part of the design as much as I could, this morning I realized I had not even considered moving in the top part. There is plenty of room & nothing magic about the location of the top transition ellipse. I did a partial design of the top rectangle transitioning straight down to a rounded rectangle rotated 30 degrees to better match the ellipse profile. I then have it transitioning 8mm inward & downward to the ellipse before going down to the 4 port manifold end. 8mm seemed like a good number to start with, but that may change depending on how the bottom piping works out. Here is what that idea looks like overlaid on the current design. The new idea is in yellow.