Do you know where to find what comes out of the cool connections on the Blackbox? Is it just like 5V signal or something?

 

N

Just saw the 24V and GND - nevermind

 

Didn't I say Peter would be along to clean up my mess? I knew that sounded too easy... Somehow I thought I remembered seeing a 120/240V switch on the side, but clearly it was a delusion brought on by an advanced case of notlookinitis.

I suppose it's only fair. The rest of the world gets real power right at the tap, the IOT Relay is the least we deserve as a consolation prize over here in the United States of Cripplepower.

Not that I'm bitter or anything.

-Bats
(they get 220V & metric standardization, and what do we get? Higher contagion counts? Amazon and ? someone was getting kickbacks when they made that deal)

 

We get amazon too (and an incompetent government)
Alex

 

As a service, sure (or disservice, depending on how you want to look at it)... But we get The Beast of Bezos itself living here *shudder*

A few years ago I would've agreed with you... but today's world has given me new standards by which to judge incompetence.

But while it feels good to commiserate, I think this place tends to be better when we leave our politics outside. So as difficult as I find it to do, I'm going to shut up now.

(err... "this place" being Openbuilds... although I suspect an argument could be made for most other places, too)

Yes! I now have the opportunity to rewire my basement for 240V and to rewire my brain for metric!

-Bats
(I suppose there's also the opportunity to sell a magic relay box to Australians... but I'm allergic to studying electrical codes, and their inspectors might send the dropbears after me)

 

I was able to get a relay with 24v that allows switching for AU power. On a smaller setup with my 3D printer I have it normally closed and switched on by 5V signal. Smaller relay obviously though. Hopefully I can just get this setup the same way.

 

Not sure on the wiring for that relay, might just do it right and get a sparky in.

 

If I have the following setup, I understand the 2 coil connections run to the COOL pins on the Blackbox, but can I just run the hot wire of the power in one normally closed and out the other? Is there more to this than I had with my 5V 240V relay? Should I maybe just look at getting a buck converter to step down the 24V out of the COOL to 5V and set it up on a single open/closed relay that takes a 5V signal? Any help appreciated.

 

Spoke to a sparky about it this afternoon. He said it was easy and I should be able to get help online. Might go speak to a better sparky Thanks for your help.

 

Is there another switching 5V out of the Blackbox? The buck was only suggest to use to get a 5V switch off the COOL. Then use that to power the coil. I won’t ask anything more than that. I don’t want someone else reading this wrong either and making bad choices based on it.

 

I am just switching on and off the cooling system, not the spindle and everything else.

 

My spindle is running off the tool head through to a VFD with help from people on here.. should I stop doing that? I thought the tool head and cool outputs from the Blackbox were for these things?

 

What does the RELAY do? I read the documentation but still am not sure

 

The 5V relay I had used in a previous project is attached. It didn’t blow up the Pi it’s attached to. Should I also stop using that?

 

Is the A0 input accessible? Also my board says v2.7 and it has different jumpers than the ones documented.

 

Got a sparky in. He said all that was connected to the Blackbox in the relay I posted was the 24v coil and it just turns on and off when a 24v current is sent through it. After about an hour (at my expense) of debating with him and showing him this thread, he said the coil inside the relay had no contact with the current running through the COM and NO (normally open) circuit. He screwed down 2 wires to the screw terminals on the base that came off a standard plug that had nothing else but an Australia plug in and plug out and it started working straight away. I got him to check for any risk factors and sign off on it. He was angry at me in the end for wasting his time, I told him I was paying by the hour and he was a little happier. I am not sure if there is still a risk as I don't have enough knowledge to debate it either way. Just not sure if I now have a device that is going to destroy the Blackbox in a few months time or potentially kill someone. The sparky offered to send another electrician down to check his work, I still have this option but not sure if it is required. I have already checked over the phone with a 3rd sparky (not his guy) and they also said they don't understand where the problem would be as it sounds like it has been done correctly.

 

Sorry for so many posts, I guess it got too confusing. I was only asking about the 5V if I was not able to use the 24V. My understanding of the wiring was correct. It was just a communication issue. This could be confusing for others too so for your own safety please follow Peter’s suggestions. Is there going to be a way down the track to post specific threads for questions or are they all staying here?