Just getting to the end of my 1010 build and i noticed a fare amount of play in my Z axis. I have the little clip attached, hoping someone could tell me if this is normal and if not how one might go about fixing it as ive fiddled with the eccentric nuts and got them as tight as i can. Thanks Bran
Yeah that's pretty sloppy. What is this clip you speak of and is the machine an openbuilds or Ooznest purchase?
The video "clip" i attached showing the play. the parts came from china. but as far as i can tell its identical to the ones they sell here in australia that are 1010 clones with the open builds black box which i own.
Hi Bran, yes, that's happened with other builders. However, the first thing to do is to measure the OD of the wheels - I suspect there will not only be differences between them but some even smaller than minimum. I believe the spec is 23.9mm diameter. Personally, I don't like the design too much because of the lack of adjustment scope in such a critical area - something to look at I guess. Cheers from NZ.
Ok thanks for the into Christian I shall get my self some calipers and measure them. By eye with a ruler they look about 24mm, seems like they would have to be seriously under sized to create this much "slop" with the eccentrics turned to maximum off set :-/
some guys have bored out the holes in the "fixed" wheels side of the plate (NOT eccentric side) say to 6mm or so to allow the fixed wheels to be pushed closer to the V slot,,, but, and its a big but, you may also have to widen the counterbores that the bolts sink into to take advantage of the larger hole you create and obviously you need the tool and gear to do that (unless the counterbores are already a bit wider that the flat headed screw). If you don't fancy that then another option may be to leave the fixed wheel side as it is, but remove the eccentrics altogether on the other side (Replace with a 7mm bush or 6mm bush and 1mm precision shim ) and just use finger pressure to take up the adjustment. Please note though, I have not tried this, so not sure what the result would be,but at least you're not altering the plates in any way so you can always put it back as it was.
I think i follow, not sure where i could find such a bushing though. I was wondering if i could just put another set of eccentrics in the fixed side ? Maybe that would create enough contact between the c beam and the wheel to stop the slop.
Ohhhh when you say a bushing you mean a spacer to make the up height lost from removing the eccentric, which would be a 6mm aluminium space to match the fixed sides 6mm space. Then i use my fingers to pull the wheel towards the V slot as i do the nut up ? Or i bore out the fixed side and re counter sink if needed then do the same thing. use my fingers to poll the wheels towards the v slot and do the nut up.... i think i follow you now.
I had basically an identical issue as well with Z axis on my lead clone from China/eBay. Had I know all the issue I was going to run into I would have never purchased from China. Not to mention the $350 import fee! Anyway how I fixed: Used my drill press to ever so slightly drill out the eccentrics so the could be MORE eccentric if that even makes sense. I also ended up ever so slightly drilled out the eccentric holes in the plates. I then used adhesive backed aluminum foil to push the eccentrics closer to the c beam Swapped sides of fixed and eccentrics Lastly I used the x gantry and a wood block to put pressure on the z axis and allow me to tighten the eccentrics. Probably not recommended but that fixed it for me!
