If you're going to use the enclosure with a CNC router that has a vacuum hose for dust shoe, how will the hose move around?

 

I was curious what thickness panels are recommended for this? I see a note that mentions 1/4" plywood. I want to use acrylic or polycarb and just realize that the slot covers can also double as panel holders. What thickness panel is required to use the slot covers as panel holders? Does the kit come with enough slot covers to use them as panel holders for all sides?

 

and are there nominal dimensions\drawings for the panels? it looks like there would need to be corners cut for where the frames meet.

 

I purchased a Workbee 1010 and haven't assembled it yet. I've been designing a tablesaw outfeed/assembly table which would have the Workbee underneath. I had been planning for around 22" of clearance, and thought this would be adequate. But am given pause by this enclosure's dimensions, which are 29" height. Perhaps other models needs much more headroom, or have I misjudged the space I'm likely to need.

 

I would have an adaptor fixed into the top panel. The main hose from the vacuum pump would then clamp onto the outside of the adaptor, then a hose of appropriate length from the router itself clamped to the underside of the adaptor (inside the cabinet).

 

I have been wanting to put a nice enclosure around my Sphinx 55 & this seems like it almost fits the bill. I want mine to be about the size of the table it is on plus I would like to triple its use by sizing it big enough to go over my miter saw for cutting aluminum extrusion & over my little laser engraver I am building. That said, I drew your 55 size design up in fusion 360 to get relative measurements for the door gaps. I see you have allowed a 2mm gap around the door frames & 4mm gap in the middle or at least measurements that add up to those gaps. One question I have is your outside height is 761mm where I get 760mm, so where does that extra 1mm come from? Also, have you thought of having an option for laser safety shielding like: 250nm to 520nm Laser Shielding – 12″ x 12″ .

Having drawn this up in fusion 360, I am now creating a parametric openscad file to look at different sizes. I find openscad easier to do this type of parametric drawing than fusion 360. I only have to add the doors to the file now. I could publish this openscad file on thingiverse after it is finished if that would be ok with you?

 

That is cool. I did not see that bundle.

After adding the hinges, looks like the offset for the side of the doors should be .4mm on each side since the M5 hole spacing on the hinges is 20.4mm in the model. So taking that in to account, I get a gap of 2mm at the top & bottom of the doors & 6.8mm between the doors. The thickness of the sketchup model of the 3 way bracket measures 5.5mm, but seems to be 5mm when working with the lengths you specified. Does that sound correct?

I attached a spreadsheet of my calculations which might be all anyone needs to calculate the V-slot cut lengths for a custom size. Only the Length, Width & Height are needed to calculate the correct lengths. That is assuming the my gap variables & thickness of the 3 way connector is correct. A double check of the calcs can easily be done by plugging in the sizes of the other 2 enclosure sizes.

 

I have this openscad script just about worked out. I just need to clean it up a little. I did find what appears to be an incorrect dimension on the top panel for the 510 series. You have the it dimensioned as 1188x728. Think that 728 should be 688mm instead to match the side widths and not the height of back & sides.

I updated the excel spreadsheet to add the panel cut sizes, so I am attaching that latest version here as well as a screen shot of the openscad model. I added variables for panel colors, so you could see the difference in choice of colors. I also made some of the hardware different colors so they are easier to see.

 

I published the openscad file here: Parametric Enclosure based on Openbuilds Modular Enclosure System by GeoDave

 

I will rework the openscad file when you finalize this. I was looking at those 1/4" insulation sheets in one of the big box stores the other day, but they seem to be folded & not one big piece like the thicker rigid insulation is. A less expensive option & gives a little insulation would be to use foam core. the 20x30 sheets are $1 at the dollar store.

 

Here are some other options for panels. You can get wider widths of foam board both white & black color in sizes up to 48x96" from Foam Board, Foam Core Boards, Black Foam Boards in Stock - ULINE , https://www.dickblick.com/categories/paper/boards/foam-board/ or how about cork board Elmer's® Cork Foam Board . Those size foam boards are more expensive though.

How about the 3/4"x4'x8' rigid insulation cut 1/4" wider than the openings & use a router to cut for fit into the slots or just a press fit size for the openings might work. They are only $13 a sheet. This might be the way I go as I could rough cut the sheet in the parking lot to fit in my car.

 

I updated my openscad script & spreadsheet on thingiverse to allow for the 2060 option. You can change the header from 2020, 2040 or 2060 by setting the variable Hd_Size = 60; //can be 20, 40 or 60. I also added the option for 3 or 4 door joining plates. Seems like smaller builds will not need as much support? Maybe you could give a guideline for size that would need beefier header?

For routing the 3/4" insulation you could probably use a tongue & groove router bit.

 

F-150s cower at the sight of a 2008 Town and Country.

 

I can get most supplies I need in my 2012 Honda Civic Coupe. I did push the limits of it the other week hauling 6 - 4x4x8' boards. I have also carried 4 - 2x6x10' boards. My main problem of course is carrying wider stuff than 24"-36". I can usually get 4x8 sheets cut by the store, but they probably would not cut insulation.
Speaking of insulation, think I found a better option. I was in a larger Lowes this morning & they had 1/2"x4x8' rigid insulation for $10. Think I can cut them 1/4" oversize on all sides & smush the side ends to fit in the V-slot . That seems like the way to go for me.

 

Did you ever consider using blind joints for the corners of the V-Slot? This video below uses this method with what looks like T-Slot. Testing a button head or low profile screw looks like it might work with V-Slot, but with the V it does not have as much aluminum to grab hold of. I measure about 2mm on each side of M5 head that touches the aluminum. Would this method hold adequately with V-Slot? That would save a chunk of money on the hardware, but is a little more manual labor drilling the allen wrench access holes.

 

@Mark Carew , Is it possible to get a kit for a 1015? Remember, some of us have a larger machine and would love to also be able partake in this wonderful enclosure!