https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJDCK9...hX0CQso1otyNMPLDy9uUdgNOQAGQKVEETKDWcKCVyphVw Do I just plug this into 'door' on blackbox and that's it? cheers
We recommend you have your Emergency Stop cut POWER (merely pausing the movements of a machine is not a good strategy in an emergency) to everything: router, controller, etc - wired before the power strip where you plug everything in For example: Don't catch on fire - also known as "what happens when you leave CNC unattended" [pics] is how i know and why for years I have stood by the statement that an emergency stop should cut power to Everything! What if the PSU catches on fire, or the power strip catches fire, or the computer becomes self aware (; or the dust inside the vacuum catches fire from a smoldering piece of chip - you really want the E-Stop to KILL POWER to EVERYTHING at once. The DOOR input will just pause motion, not stop the other emergencies
Ok roger, thanks a ton. Fire bad. Do you have something like 'idiots guide for making an emergency stop that cuts power to everything?' Is it a matter of buying that same type of emergency stop button thing but wiring it up differently? Many thanks.
If you know very little about electricity do as Peter said and hire an electrician (or keep reading to the end). But basically it is a big normally closed button you can slap that cuts power to everything. You need a E-stop switch that can handle your voltage and amperage and it needs to go in-line with the power coming into your machine ahead of all the electronics. You hit the big button and the switch is opened and all power is cut to the machine. If you want an easy solution that can actually handle 15 amps which is most U.S. circuits, get this one from Rockler. It is plug and play. You plug it into the wall, plug the machine into it, and you have an e-stop. Much cheaper than an electrician. Those cheap estops from Amazon are only rated for 10 amps. It probably would not be a problem, but for $29 you are getting a much higher quality product that is already wired for you. An electrician is probably $50-$150 an hour. I am actually thinking of getting one myself now that I found it today. I like that it has the E-stop and a power button all in one!
Has anyone tried that paddle switch shut off? Or have a solution like it? I am going to try out https://www.amazon.com/KREG-PRS3100...A5SGVZPQDZ6&psc=1&refRID=3B6QFR568A5SGVZPQDZ6 Due to owning a Kreg 64"x64" table for my CNC and having the same switch on my table router. Also it allows for 2 plugins
I used a similar one, but I had to provide my own cord and wire it myself. I like it, but that Kreq is a good choice and you get more outlets.
I've assembled my own NVR {No Volt Release Switch} from a 240v AC relay complete with a start/stop button with separate emergency stop that cuts ALL power to my Workbee 1510 and the dewalt spindle, the circuit for this is very easy I got the switches from Amazon and already had a high power relay 240vac {UK} kicking around. I've only just build my Workbee 1510 over the Christmas period, I'm yet to test it!! all I've done so far is jog the machine and homed it. I've also added an SSR for the spindle control. I'm thinking of adding a second E/S on the front of the table or even fixed to the floor.
SSRs are not suitable for high current inductive loads like Routers. Also, they have dangerously high leakage current. SSRs are meant for resistive loads only (heaters, lights)
Looks like I'll be replacing it with an EMR then, I've had these SSR's kicking around for years. Thanks for the advance.
Will this work with the Meanwell Power Supply? Fulton 110V Single Phase On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-Singl...afety+Power+Tool+Switch&qid=1610405186&sr=8-3
