Looks very sturdy, Jim! This design is not used very often in the router world but rather in the 3d printing world since it needs a very big footprint for the same useful cutting length on the Y axis. But truth to be told, I have a machine that can cut 1200mm on the Y axis and, so far, I never used it. Max I used so far is 600mm. I could have built a machine similar to yours and get away with a smaller footprint.
Thanks, the footprint of the machine will end up at 700 wide and 760mm deep with a cutting area of 380 x 500mm. I could certainly get a bit more cutting area for the footprint with another style of machine but I am shooting for rigidity over size. I am going with this size as it is perfect for my basement work area (in an enclosure) and it should do most of the small projects that I want to do. I do plan on building a larger cnc router with a laser that will live in the garage.
I think fixed gantry machines are underrated in general by hobbyists, and would have been the way I'd gone if I didn't have some fairly specific multi-axis requirements. This looks very promising!
I saw this and immediately thought, "I need to make mine bigger." KRE Mill V3 - Concept Since our builds are so similar, I should mention a few things that gave me grief. The Y rails and shaft need some kind of protection. I ran mine wet which made things a lot messier a lot quicker. Even using less corrosive fluids, I would avoid flood and strictly use air. I just didn't have a compressor. Make sure you cover up that Y motor and belt assembly for same reasons above. What spindle are you aiming for?
Your KRE mill looks awesome. Thanks for the input, I will plan on working something out for protecting the rails and especially the belt and motor. My plan is to use a 1.5kw 65mm air cooled spindle.
Hmm, I'm building a machine that resembles your Z assembly quite closely. What thickness of the Z plates are normally used on machines like this? I too use a 1.5 kW spindle.
The z-axis that I have has a 15mm thick backplate at the sides the center is thinner to allow clearance for the ball-nut. . I had this unit on another machine so I thought I would use it because I am unable to build on this nice. This unit is made to use v wheels so I have made a adaptor plate out of 9mm plate to fit it to the linear bearings. The first machine that I built, I build I bought the parts as kind of a kit, they were 6mm thick. I think if there is a normal it would be around 9mm. Hope this helps.
Ok, thanks! Seems that in Europe alu plates cames in standard thickness of 8 or 10 mm, so I'll have to choose a thickness from that. 10 or 8, hmmm.
I would get the 10mm, if you have to face it off to make it flat you will have extra thickness to work with.