I've got a Sainsmart Genmitsu 4030 PROverXL that I picked up about a month back. I got it for a specific use, and it is working well for that: (I'm going to have to do that for probably a couple hundred parts a year going forward). However, I've realized that almost all the work I need to do for for making the Japanese braiding frames can be done on this machine. There are a few parts that will have to be tiled (1/2" wide by 1/2" deep by 18" or 22" long slots on 1.25" square wood stock), which is why I'm thinking of upgrading it. Sainsmart finally announced pricing on their 6060 upgrade for this machine at about $350. I've seen several people say that you can do an upgrade to 1010 using parts from here for the same price. I'd like to also improve the machine at the same time with ball-screws and linear rails. I did a quick search and didn't see a specific upgrade guide. Can someone point me to it if I missed it, or help me work up a parts list? Some additional info. Part of the work for the braiding frames involves putting counterbored holes on the end of the 1.25" square stock that can be up to 27" long, and I'm planning on cutting a hole through one of the V-slot table slats and the top of the bench I'm going to get for it so that I can orient it for this type of milling. Most of the benches that are in my price range only go about 30" deep, which is why I was thinking 6010 might also be an option. I've had 20 years machine shop experience, and about 8-10 years of that running and setting up CNC lathes and mills. (Lathes - Miyano, Mills - OKK, Brother, Makino (vertical and horizontal) Haas (vertical and horizontal). I've also been using OB control for my 4030, and like it quite a lot. Thanks in advance!
Did I screw up my question? The parts list I saw was this one: ...from Openbuilds 8mm Diameter Acme Lead Screw - 1040mm in Length - 3 Pieces C Beam Extrusion - 1000mm in Length - 3 Pieces V Slot 20x80 Linear Rail - 1000mm in Length -2 Pieces Lock Collar -6 Pieces Nut Block for 8mm Lead screw - 6 Pieces Thrust Bearings - 6 Pieces 3mm Aluminum Spacer (10 Pack) 2 Packs Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm - 12 Pieces M5 Low Profile Screws - 55mm(10 Pack) - 1 Pack X-Large C Beam Gantry Plate - 3 Pieces ...from Amazon 8mmx8mm Aluminum Coupler Drag Chain Vacuum Hose Boom - Shower curtain rod from Home Depot Suckit Vacuum Hose Boom 3D Print Model Onefinity Vacuum Hose Boom - Etsy It was from this video: Though looking at the size on the parts store, maybe 5 x 10 would be a better choice. Am I on the right track using that video for the guide, and just modifying it for the ball screws? (edit: misunderstood something, and removed the question that didn't make sense.)
I don't think you screwed up your question, I think that there probably isn't anyone on this forum that contributes regularly that has any experience with the machine in question. That may be why no one has responded. That being said, it looks like a simple conversion where you can reuse most of your existing components with his build list.
Yeah, what he said. Probably one of those things where you just start it, and then pick up the extra components that you missed. Might not be a single-afternoon conversion, which is what the kit's for, but doesn't look particularly complex to wing it, especially with your experience. I'd just check to see if those molded double-V rollers also fit on V-Slot, or if you'll need to change out the wheels too. If that's the case, things might get tricky with plates and hole placement.
Thanks! I wasn't sure since I was starting with a different machine, but I'm happy to get everything I can from Openbuilds. I'm just a little surprised that I wasn't able to find an earlier post about it given the video. However about the V-slot, the linear rails are used on the sides that don't have leadscrews, and it looks like the sides that do have the leadscrews and rollers use the same C-beam as I can get through OpenBuilds store, so I think the rollers will work. I'm also wondering if getting some of the parts will let me add in a RoutER to the order, or if you can only order it when getting a full kit. Thanks for the input. I'll probably be following up with photos and questions as I continue on with this.
Thinking a bit more about this upgrade, this is a machine I need to be working for most of the next couple of months. So, I think I'm going to go with the 8mm leadscrews rather than ball screws. I can switch to the ball screws later when I'm planning on some down time, and I know this list should work, as the only modification will be the size of the X-axis parts. Edit: Nut blocks are out of stock....
The machine I'm working on has 2 leadscrews on the Y-axis, so 2 per screw being replaced (2 Y and 1 X) would make it 6.
The nutblocks should have the anti-lash mechanism built in. No other reason to have two per axis unless you're gonna get really nerdy about averaging screw pitches.
I've never actually replaced a leadscrew, so I'm going off the video guide posted above. If I only need 3, I'll be happy with that. If/when I need more accuracy, I'll be switching to ball screws. Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated.
I see- he's doing flange mount brass blocks set up in an anti-lash configuration where they can be tightened against each other: The OB ones are Delrin in a block-mount setup and have a compliant hinge to tighten up the nut itself, like an adjustable double-nut (iirc, I'm not an OBPS expert). If you're doing brass nuts (and Amazon nuts won't fit OB screws and vice-versa, there's a whole thing about being "true 8mm" or not) then you'd need to do what the video shows.
If they come back in stock soon enough, I'll go with the OB ones. Edit: Looking in the store, the ones linked to that were out of stock are the plain nut blocks. The anti-backlash ones are in stock, so I ordered 3. Thanks again!
Well, that is what I get for ordering parts in the middle of the night and not heading out to take actual measurements. And I did watch the video guide and there was nothing about cutting down the X-axis V-rails to get them to fit right. But yeah, my machine is already longer than 500mm for the X-axis C-beam. A little annoying and it makes the build a little more expensive than it could have been, but will actually be less work in the long run. Though I'm wondering if it will be better to rotate the Y-axis C-beams to have the pocket on the outside to shield the leadscrews. The measurements might be right to use the new C-beam without modification. I'm still thinking if it is worth the effort and the loss of X-axis travel.
Thinking a little more about the parts sizes, I'm using 12150 extrusion for my table. If I use the 1000mm C-beams for my Y-axis, I'm going to need roughly 1050mm extrusions to reach both the X-axis rails to mount them. I'm only able to fine the 12150 in 1000mm. I'm not locked into that specific extrusion, but does anybody have a source they could point me towards? Thanks!
Oh joy, the leadscrews are in USPS limbo. Been "In Transit, Arriving Late" since the 22nd. Last time this happened to me, it took 6 weeks to show up.
I went ahead and ordered another set of leadscrews and had them sent Fed-Ex. They arrived right away. I've got them installed now. I need to cut the MDF bed to length, drill mounting hold to match the tapped holes on the front and back rails, drill another location hole for the limit switch bracket, and then I'll be ready to tram the spindle, and calibrate the leadscrews. Slight bow in the leadscrews, but they are long enough that I don't expect that to be a problem.
A new screw should not have a bow! If there is a bow in the lead screw expect some whipping when you run the machine. The higher the moving speed the worse the whipping. If you can tension the screws, using thrust bearings, do it and it will mitigate the whipping by a lot.
Thank you! I think either the guide I was going from lead me astray, or I misunderstood what they were saying. I have thrust bearings and lock collars, but from what you are saying, I think I have them on the wrong side of the blocks. I have them inside, to keep them in positions since the previous leadscrews had e-clips holding them in place with a turned down portion and groove for the clip. I'll post some pictures to show what I did, but I think I should move them to the outside of the end blocks so they will keep the leadscrew straight under mild tension.
This is what I have currently. So I'll move the one on the end away from the stepper motor so I can slide out just enough more to put a thrust bearing and lock collar on the outside portion (while doing this, I'll remove the one from the stepper motor end as well). Then I'll move the inside one back snug so this locks the location. Then put the 3rd thrust bearing on the outside of the block on the end with the stepper motor and snug up the collar to provide a little bit of tension to hold it straight. Does this sound like the a good way to correct my mistake?
You need to straighten the screw (prior to installation) because a bend isn't going to tension itself out, it's still going to want to whip (and/or simply be inaccurate). It's not uncommon for leadscrews and ball screws to arrive not-straight. Then you need the collars/thrust bearings on the outsides of the plates such that the screw is under tension- the second one being installed needs to pull on the screw, not just sit in place. The faster you're planning on driving the screw, the more important this is. No reason to have three- one bearing is just gonna stop the other bearing from tensioning the screw.
Got it. I suspect the bend I'm seeing is flexing from my screw-up, not an actual set in the screw bend, because I didn't notice it before installation. I'll verify before re-installing the thrust bearings correctly. This is what I get for working sleep deprived. Thanks for the catch. Hopefully I didn't put an actual bend in.
I may or may not post the videos I took, I'm not sure they really provide a benefit. Upshot: 1. The leadscrews are straight, no bends. Removed both of them entirely and verified. 2. Sleep deprivation and not verifying measurement will bite you every time. I've got to treat builds from a guide like I do setups at work when I take over after someone partway through. Verify all dimensions and locations. The anti-backlash nut blocks were 3mm out of line from the leadscrew's axis. Added another 3mm spacer and now everything fits together much better. 3. Thrust bearings are now out the outside of the end plates. Lock collar on the -Y side, and the +Y side with the stepper motors, I didn't have room for a lock collar, but the coupler worked just fine for that. The couplers now no longer have a slight alignment mismatch showing. Turning the stepper motors by hand is much easier now. Now I just need to drill mounting holes in the MDF bed, calibrate the axes, and mill pockets for threaded inserts. I do notice that I'm getting just a slight amount of flex in the middle of the bed when it is just sitting there without being screwed down. I'm wondering if a linear rail strut would be a good addition at this point? Thanks again for helping me find my errors.
Got the leadscrews calibrated in GRBL. 197 steps per mm gives it dead on accurate movement over 400mm. I'm having a tramming issue, but I'll post that on its own, so I can focus on it.
Since you have the option to do it, try (just for the kicks) to calibrate the axis on 800mm. If it's accurate there too you'll feel real good. I know, I've been there!
I'd be happy to, but I'd need to buy another scale/ruler, since the one I have only goes up to 450mm.
