Good move, Digger! 3dPrinter + CNC = Endless possibilities. I bought one, an UP2 which is very good and accurate. But in the planning is one with around a m3 of building space. Shauki Bagdadi has a very interesting concept and cheap to build. Check him out for some ideas.
Product Line: Torqspline® Major Diameter: 3/8" (in.) 9.525 mm or 11.112 Threads Per Inch: 5 (Threads/in.) Number of Starts: 5 Lead: 1.000 (in./rev.) 25.4 mm Effective Threads Per Inch: 1 (Effective TPI) Hand: Right Hand http://www.roton.com/Mating_Components.aspx?family=7060998 They have a bunch of sizes there and they only run from 10 to 20 bucks a foot is not metric but it's close to the specifications on the larger blog.
I don't know how big of a difference a 10 start versus a 5 start will make. But a 5 start is a lot cheaper.
I ordered som 8mm - 20mm lead assemblies from RobotDigg for $50 ea. with the NEMA 17's mattached. I will need to cut them to proper length and tur the end down to 5mm, but that is no problem. The big thing right now is to print a sleeve to take up the space in the size difference of the 8mm nut to fit in the plate carrier that is printed for a 12mm nut. I now have access to a printer, so I am deciding if I want to make a shim or reprint the plate with a smaller attachment point. At this point all of my builds are metric, and I just can't see fudging one part of one machine to have to be non-metric.
My stuff is metric also. But I don't know if I can pass up the price. I'm still working on my delta Griffen build so I'll be a couple months before start this one I'll keep on looking for leads screws.
Whether one has a screw made in metric thread vs. SAE inch, it become transparent to the user when you calibrate the system in step per mm. Cheers.......
I'm with you on mixing fasteners, etc. I'm building a variant for acrylic filament at 1000 mm by 1000 mm by 500 mm and like the 11.112 mm, aka 7/16 screw to be robust against flex at the longer axis lengths. My motivations are a little different, the higher performance and $ delta moving to 7/16" screw vs. other supplier options is hard to pass up.
Well...my Lautr3k is on hold while building 3 deltas. A Delta Six, a "Mutt" (name of new designed delta) and helping on a second "Mutt" The Mutts are very friendly builds with mostly printed paarts, radially directed 20x40 V-slot, Magnetic rods, and 32bit ARM electronics (Smoothie and Azteeg X5)
All my stuff is metric also, but the price at Roton is good & they offer an anti-backlash nut as well, which will, I hope make it well worth while.
I am just about to start reprinting all of the plastic pieces for the Panther. The originals, printer by someone else are way too light. I have the 8mm, 20mmleads from RobotDigg that look like they will work fine, and at $50 each (with motors), I think will be a great deal. The other one's someone is going to try are only turned down to 6mm on the ends. They were going to modify all of the needed plastic parts to work.
I would be inclined to go to an engineering shop or a friend with a lathe and have a truly concentric 5mm end. Just my opinion. Tweakie.
Yes, that is where this convo started. But if I did'nt have this as an option i would do as I suggested. The reality of this is the print plate is being held in plane by the carriage on the v-slot wheels on 4 corners. There is not a great deal of "extra" travel between there and the ends. A supported shaft end "machined" as I mentioned will work fine for this operation, in a pinch. Always better to use the correct tools...until you can't, then it is always betrter to complete the job.
I suspect that many of us out here have set the points in one of our old cars with a book match as our feeler gauge.
Just offering advice - From my experience I have found that reliability comes from precision but hey, it's your build and you should proceed as you see fit. Tweakie.
If in reference to the screws I posted about in the Lautr3k thread. I should update. ( I apologize if it is a bit off topic) I don't plan on changing any of the printed parts if I don't have to.Well just two, to fit the new 4 bolt acme nut bolt pattern, the nut it self is roughly the same size just a little smaller with a different mounting pattern!. I decided to have them turn down the one end to 7mm instead of 6mm (they will do 7mm and 6mm but not 5mm no clue why) This way I can just swap out for a new bearing the same size as the 605ZZ. I believe the 687ZZ would be the one to use according to my bearing ref. book... Same 14x5 outside dimension as the 605ZZ but with a 7mm ID. This way the printed parts do not have to be modified. The screws are a bit pricey, But cheaper then the unavailable Trintylabs screws use to be. Are a off the self 12mm Lead screw available in the US to a private party and Should be plenty fast with the 36mm lead and 6 starts. The fact I don't have to pay any one local to cut down or turn the ends for me is a bonus, the guy in town with a lathe is $$$. If ordered in small bulk you can get the price down to 50-80$ per screw and nut combo machined to spec. My price for the two needed is $97 each.
There is a F6-14G mini thrust bearing used in model helicopters that fits a 6mm shaft. Hobby shops advertise them.
Thanks for the info. I did not consider looking at thrust bearings, Off to Google.. When I was researching available 6mm bearing sizes I kept my search to Precision Ball Bearings.. Of which I found 686ZZ at 6x13x5 and 696zz at 6x15x5
Kyo, nice find on the bearing swap. I would think you would have no problem getting a group together to bulk buy. Tweakie. No lecture needed. I simply stated that if the machinist was not an option, one could make it work.
Hi there , where did you get your plastic parts printed and what are they printed from Ive printed some from pla but am worried about warping over time
I'll give them ago in abs , looks to perform well , I'm struggling to find 10 start rods and nuts to that spec at moment
Here are some pics of the new parts I am printing. The parts I had another guy print are just too lightweight for my liking. I have already cracked 3 pieces during mockup. Not a good start! Oh well, the new parts are much higher infill and I like the color better. And here is a shot of the infill. Much stronger:
Looking good those , struggling to find leads Screws have trinity labs closed permanently can't find same specs anywhere
Trinity Labs was just a reseller, PBC Linear made the screws and they are not available to us on a per person order.. Response I got from PBC. "We do not have any of the 12x25mm CFT lead screw assemblies that we used to supply to Trinity Labs in stock. We are still in the “Strategic OEM Phase” with our CFT lead screw product and are only supplying them to OEMs with volume applications. As such, we are not in a position to manufacture more if this specific lead screw assembly to meet your customer’s small quantity requirements." You can get the exact spec screw from Thompson, Printed parts will need to be updated to fit the new nut bolt pattern. Thompson will not sale direct, However they put me in contact with a local distributor here in WA, Just waiting for him to get in touch with me so I know the cost. 10 Start 12mmx25mm Screw- SRA10-12X2.5M Nut- XC_10-12X2.5M Igus can supply a 5 start 12mm x 25mm Lead screw. Screw- PTGSG-12x25-R-ES Nut- JFRM-2835SG12x25 Misumi can supply a 6 Start 12mm x 36mm Lead Screw Machined to size. ( will need to substitute 605zz for a 687ZZ ) Screw/Nut- MSSRW1236-373-F12-V6-S10-Q7 Other options included the robotdigg Nema 17 Lead Screw Combos / and Imperial Lead Screws from Roton / ect. . Each option will take a bit of updating to the original design you just have to decide which route you want to take and go from there. New Prints are looking great, looks like they are going to be be nice and solid.
Thnx for replys guys , shame about trinity , if you remember can you keep us updated when you get any info from Thompson distributor Kyo plz