G'day Gumpwa Luong, I note with interest your purchase from Robotdigg. Did they machine the ends for you? If so what did they charge for it? I intend using the same davices. Regards, George

 

Where was this from, please?

 

Nope, they did not charge me extra. *BUT* because it was a custom job it took nearly a month to ship. It cost $50 USD each, same price as http://www.robotdigg.com/product/236/Rapid-Threaded-Rod-Stepper-with-450mm-Tr8*20-Lead-Screw

 

Anyone make an adapter plate to get from "Wade-L3K" extruder to "X-Carriage tool side" ????

IT'S ALIVE...

Cheers
Scott

 

Thanks for the info. After finally reading ALL the forum entries, I am quite confused re what I should do. The Robotdigg choice is by far the cheapest, but I am concerned that being only 8mm, with heavy threading. the maincore is only about 5mm. this would be subject to fairly heavy loads & I worry that it will whip at speed. What does everyone think

 

My guess (as Mine is not together after a decision o rebuild the plastic parts) is that after many days of almost continuous printing and watching the almost continuous changing in directions of the screws and belts is that in the space between the motor (or the bearing on the other end) to the nut on the bottom of the printing plate is not likely to get much chance to whip like a CNC router making long travels. What thinks you guys?

 

Great looking printer project. A lot going on right, in those plan pics

 

Not much concern as far as whipping, but i'm a little iffy about how these screws are mounted. Whipping occurs when you hit the screws critical speed, which is determined by the root diameter of the screw and length between the supports. Depends on your screw, but with the ones from trinity labs in this configuration, you'd have to be running your printer well in excess off 1000mm/s before you had to worry about whipping.

As far as the mounting though...for a fixed/free system like this, the fixed end is supposed to be 2 bearings spaced 1.5x the shaft diameter and there should be some mechanism (lock nut or shaft collar) to prevent axial movement of the screw. Correct me if i'm wrong, but it seems like this configuration would put a lot of load on the motor and potentially lose repeatability from the screw sliding around (especially with flexible couplings)?

 

The RoboyDigg screws do not use couplers, as the screws are part of the stepper motor (axle and shaft in a single piece), and the far end is 2 bearings and 2 precision shims deep, for a length of 12mm. Because of this you can assemble the unit and "load" the shaft for end play. For those of you who don't want to redesign the print plate, I am posting a shim that we (Area515 MakerSpace) created to allow the 8mm shafts and existing nuts to work with the plates designed for the Trinity labs screws. Seemed better than redesigning several other parts and buying different bearings. Enjoy.

BTW, the shim is longer than the bearing intentionally, to allow the mounting screws to add an additional way to locate the nut/shim combo. I think it could be shortened to the length of the nut shaft, but have not had time to do I, and it doesn't hurt to have it, so...

 

Thanks for the reply. I've come to the realisation that I'm building a 3D printer, not a Space Shuttle! I've decided to go back to my original plan & use the Robotdigg combo.

 

Hi folks,

I'm using the following for my Z road (tr8*8 acme lead screw) : http://www.robotdigg.com/product/31/NEMA17-Threaded-Rod,-350mm-length-Tr8*8-Acme-Leadscrew

and for my X and Y I'm using (tr8*20 acme leadscrew): http://www.robotdigg.com/product/236/Rapid-Threaded-Rod-Stepper-with-450mm-Tr8*20-Lead-Screw

Anyone have good suggestions what I should use for:

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {128,128,200,495} // 495 for Bulldog XL.
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated

Thanks

 

Hi everyone, I read all the pages and i saw excellent woks!
I think that the lead screws system is very good, and I want to use it on my new printer but is a problem to find the right screws.
I'm from Germany and buying goods in USA is a suicide! To much cost! Import taxes, shipping, and long time for delivery.
I'm looking for a supplier in Germany but I have not found anything yet. I read about the UK supplier, is an option, but it is better if I find something here.
I have a couple of questions for you:
Can someone say me the features of the Z axis lead screws from Makers Toolworks? I'd like to find the same in Germany. Can I use the lead screws from Openbuilds for the Z axis?

I read that Robert Hummel (great job) tried the lead screws from Openbuild but they are to slow... How to slow? Up to 50mm/sec, 60mm/sec, 70mm/sec ???

Thanks to all!
Bye

 

Hello Kyo, thank you for your reply! Are you from Germany? I'm from Munich.
The Z axis screws are very simple, will not a problem to find them.
My new printer is a new project, I'm still designing it. When finished I will share it here.
The measures of the screws will be a little bit different, but your help is precious, so I can start to ask some informations.
About the screws... do you know how is the maximum speed reached from the screws of Openbuilds?

Thanks!

 

Has anyone found a source for the required x and y lead screws besides from robodigg? I already have spare stepper motors and several 3d printers for parts, but I don't have access to a machine shop or machinist to correct the dimensions so another source would be greatly appreciated . I may have to build something like the cbot if these screws end up being too tough to source.

 

Hi all, Great work!!!

I'm sourcing all the components for my build and I have 2 questions.

Sc00ter did you succeed using the igus leadscrew?

Can I use 2 20x20 V-slot to replace one 20x40 V-slot

Thank you

by the way I'm from Portugal

 

Is Trinity Labs still in business?

 

Nope, they didn't make it.

 

If they are no longer in business... where do I get my threaded rods, that is what runs the whole machine!

I really liked the TrinityLabs anti-backlash ones, so I need to find an EXACT or close replacement.

 

If you read the thread, or the TL google group, you will fibd you are in for a bit of a headache fibdibg "exact" replacements. There are OP on here who are naking use if different products, //thehey can give you rgeir successes or failures

 

Actually...no. My new puppy was laying in my lap a few weeks ago, and one of his brothers came through the room with a toy hedwcided he wanted. Ted jumped up and ran across my laptop keyboard and the keys and retainers flew everywhere. seems they aren't puppy toe nail proof! the result is a very frustrating typing situation.

Oh yeah.....then there is the stroke i had last February. Just a normal day in my life.

 

@CWidt

Take a look at this post: http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/lautr3k.274/page-11#post-10524

The post right after that is my first test print with those screws. I have 2 other friends using the same ones to build Lautr3ks too But they aren't done yet... They even machined the ends for me too, although it was a custom order that took like 20-30 days to ship. But worth it since I dont have the tools to do it myself.

I'll say again... really great printer! It is much faster and accurate then I expected!

 

I'd be interested in purchasing the printed components if anyone is willing, and the lead screw issue stabilizes. I'm in north Alabama.

 

Hi Kyo,

I contacted them last week and no response.
Did you ever contacted them for a quote?

Best regards,
Florian

 

Can I ask why anyone doesn't simply use the OB screws? This is just a 3D printer, there's a lot of other factors that will have to be checked before having to pay for expensive screws... I would be curious to compare a print from this printer to my belt and pulley Prusa i3...