Th Thanks mate, always appreciate your help. I will pull the whole thing apart including motors limits and vfd over the weekend. Might need to order a new Blackbox. I have 100% gotten more than expected use out of this lil guy
hi, Peter Van Der Walt i have question? My stepper motor wire's get hot all three of them, when running a job for three hours. is that normal or a problem? The DM542A stepper Drive are set to 2.83 Peak / 2.03 RMS on the dip switch., i guess 2.84A. The stepper motor's are 3.0A 1.8 425oz., My power system 24V@15A other people toll me change the 24v to 36v or 48v, they said the DM542A drive can do 36v to 48v mush better. is that true? best regard
I have those drivers on one of my machines and I use a 36V power supply. I have never noticed anything getting hot. However, the motors I have are 2.8 amp and I have my dip switches at 2.37 Amps peak.
current set at 2.83 Peak / 2.03 RMS setting down to 2.37 Peak/ 1.69 RMS i'll tested today, So 24v is good? or change to 36v
I'm digging the new grbl settings layout. It makes it easier even for me who has years of experience.
im using the same wire type that come out the stepper motor. The wire's that are getting hot are A+, on all three stepper motor, Also i change the dip switch's to 2.37 Peak/ 1.69 RMS. the stepper stay warm, not hot like before. But A+ wiring's are still a little hot. I'm to hard wire direct with solder to see if help.
Different PC with the Blackbox just connected to PC and different cables all saw the USB but couldn’t connect. Probable done somewhere between 3500-4000 hours on this unit and I consider that an epic run so I ordered a new one priority post to Australia.
those D-shell connectors are not really rated for Amps of current so I am not surprised if it gets hot at ~3A 'same wire type' is an illusion when it comes to making the wires longer (-: it needs to be a thicker wire the longer it is to ensure that the losses in the wire are minimized so the voltage and current you need actually arrives at the motor. If the wires are getting hot they are too thin. if only 1 pair of wires is getting hot then I think that means that the drivers are mostly stopping with that pair turned on, which is weird and probably indicates a fault or some setup thing we don't understand yet. What are you microstepping settings? is SW4 on or off? on means full current is always applied off means the driver goes to half current after not receiving a step pulse for 500ms. I would use this on X and Y but not on Z
thanks, D-shell DP15 they're rated for 0.024amp. Hard wire direct proble resolved. I ran in to problem with the openbuilds software.. i was making a dust plate in Cerveco pro maker. the spindle is 72.01mm / and vacuum hose is 29.98mm. the two LED lights 12.5mm so made the plate and send g-code openbuilds software. when it started to cut the first hole 72.01mm i pause the job and measure the first hole. i got 69.98mm instead of 72mm. had to re-calculate inorder to get 72mm exactly. follow me for a second. i had change 72.01mm to 93.1mm and run the g-cde again. this time i got 72.01mm exactly on point. which it didn't make any sense to me. So to make the plate i used {Area Clearance tool}. and end mill 6mm. see picture for my setting with Area clearance tool. And also has anyone had a problem openbuilds software crashing in the middle of job, in macOS and Windows.? Best regard
Only if the PC you are running on is old/slow - or if you forgot to setup Windows's power settings as described in section 4.2 of the BlackBox Documentation Did you change the size in CAD? Rather - calibrate your machine using the Wizards and Tools menu > Calibration. Of course, depends on your definition of "crash" - what exactly happens, log entry screenshots etc
No i didn't change size in CAD, Project is 4 holes 72.1mm , 29.98mm ,12.5mm x2 Material Acrylic fiberglass, Thickness 13mm I use the Wizards and Tools menu > Calibration the machine. And even before calibration of the machine, I ran the same project and got the same results. other project lake 2D and 3D carving ran perfect no problem. Only when cutting out hole. The software just freeze why still running the job, i had to reboot the system
hello, HELP openbuild blackbox setup. 0-10v working fine. i do M3 S24000 i install a new spindle AIr 220v 2.2kw With VDF 220v/2.2kw. But i run spindle, I get max speed of 12000rmp instead of 24000rpm / 200hz VDF info --> Huanyang 2.2kw /220v/3HP/ 0-400hz/ 11A Model HY02D223B 3HP 0-220VAC/2.2KW 11A/400HZ PD013=8 PD001=0 PD002=1 PD004=400 PD005=400 PD008=220 PD024=1 PD070=0 PD072=400 PD144=3000 Spindle info --> CNC Router Spindle Motor Square 2.2KW Air Cooled Spindle Motor ER20 220V/2200W/6A 400Hz 24000rpm
Wall outlet > estop > power strip > router/spindle/machine power supply/accessories Use one of these Safety Power Tool Switch That way, whatever the emergency is, you are covered
Thanks, i got one of those. what i mean is E-Stop by openbuilds software controller, Like (M) code., when working on a job and need stop., But Not kill power to hole system. but can continue working. E-stop switch has OC/NC. on my bcnc used E-stop for stop spindle/stop job., But re-enable E-stop works continue, Not shutdown the hole system power...
Option 1: Use the STOP/PAUSE/ABORT buttons in CONTROL Option 2: Use the CANCEL/ABORT buttons on Interface to first pause, or then stop the job. Option 3: Enclose the machine using OpenBuilds Modular Enclosure System and enable the Door switch: docs:blackbox:connect-door-sensor [OpenBuilds Documentation] E-Stops are not used to pause jobs! Emergencies should not be taken lightly and should never be a software dependant function. It should cut power. If your hands stuck in a router or your PSU is on fire - you'll understand why we advise that to be the case
flashback to watching 4 tons of machinery bouncing around the floor because the software based Estop did not stop anything at all. (not my software!) While the GRBL firmware defines a Reset/Abort pin it is not often used. This is because it must be wired correctly in order to be 'safe' and is an extra step that isnot really needed. This means a double sided Estop switch wired such that side 1 cuts power to the stepper drivers and router. side 2 connects RESET/ABORT pin to the Ardinbo GND pin. side 1 is critical, this is the 'real' safety side 2 is optional, it tells GRBL to stop, which in turn tells the GUI that it has stopped, which might let you know where you stopped to aid in resuming the job. I have never felt a need for this, my Estop cuts power, and that is enough. What you are wanting is a run/pause button, which is what the 'feedhold' and 'cyclestart/resume' pin do, AND the buttons in the GUI do it too. Maybe some external buttons like this https://www.amazon.com/Ecarke-Mechanical-Keyboard-Programming-Software/dp/B08P1GY3GN/ref=sr_1_20 can be linked to the run/pause functions and do what you want (this in addition to a real powercutting Estop of course) BTW a good way to toast a router bit is to pause the program with the bit running in the cut but not moving. This could set the wood or plastic on fire.
Hi everyone! I'm new to the community. First of all I'd like to say the Openbuilds Control app is amazing and well thought out. I'm currently testing it on a 7" touch screen (for a custom CO2 laser) and it worked amazingly well but when I go to open file it'll open another sub menu, that I always clicked on one of the options below the actual "file opening" option accidentally. That said, is there a keyboard shortcut to open up the file window directory directly? Or better yet, for a future release, I'd love to see an "open file" button without the submenu.
I'm running OpenBuilds Control on a Chromebook with the linux container, so it runs the .deb filetype. Worked great on 5/8 with the 1.0.321 version, but now when I go to open it the app just flickers and doesn't show any GUI. It seems to understand where buttons are in the application, as it changes from the mouse pointer to the hand. But still the app just flickers. I tried restarting the linux container, restarting the computer, and uninstalling / reinstalling the OpenBuilds Control software. Nothing helps. This app flickering issue doesn't happen with any other installed linux apps (gimp, Arduino IDE, etc). Anyone have any ideas for how to correct this?
Hey guys have to say I'm loving the Control software. makes using my new Lead1010 a blast... I happened to do a vulnerability scan on my network while the software was up the other day and noticed there's a vulnerability in the web server portion of the software. Who should I report that too?
lol cool... well this is what it gave me if that helps. 64-bit block cipher 3DES vulnerable to the SWEET32 attack (CVE-2016-2183).
Hello, friends Need help., openbuilds black box., new i install openbuilds Black Box. and updated to 1.0.317v install Limit switch Z- X- Y-., Ran home all. So far look like eveything ok. BUT? when ran Home ALL, all 3 axis when home to right direction. when i manually jog X,Y it moving in right direction. Now when i try to jog Z, it move in the wrong direction., for sample Z- move up, and Z+ move down. But, it dosn't do this when i Home ALL. in the Grbl setting. if i invert Z direction, it move the correct direction, But when i do Home ALL., Z axis start going up, look for limit switch., instead of it going down Z-. i try swaping stepper wiring A+A-/B+B-.,but goes the opposite direction, when i invert Z direction. Here is Video of my problem.
