Neil, like the upgrade and will be updating my Dash X as soon as I can find the extruder in stock.

Some questions:

1) Do you have a suggestion for an alternative build plate as the original Anycubic Ultrabase print surface, 310x310mm appears to be out of stock at my usual suppliers?

2) Can you suggest a source for the “yellow rod” that you used for the cable gantry?

3) Will you be posting the SolidWorks files soon?

thanks,
larosta

 

I downloaded the SolidWorks file from your Google Drive > uncompressed it >

When I try to open it with my version of SolidWorks 2021 I get a message that the file cannot be opened because it uses features is for a "future edition".

 

The "Dash X Direct.STEP" file opened in SolidWorks but I could not extract or open the individual part files.

Could you please post the .stl files for the "Hemera Mount" and the "5015_Hemera_Shroud_v0.3" as I believe that these are the only parts I need to make for the upgrade.

- larosta

 

I opened the STEP file in Fusion360 and have no problems at all with it.

 

I have the 2021-2022 Student Edition of Solidworks and am not sure why the files won’t open. That said the .3mf files you posted work great. Upgrade parts made and the extruded I on the way. Looking forward to upgrading an already great machine. Keep up the good work.

 

Hi Neil and others,

In 2019 I bought a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer. After about 2KG of many failed prints, and a wife who complained that the printer got more attention than she did, I decided that I needed to fundamentally change the design of the printer I was working with. It was wobbly, and regardless of how many 3D printed addons I created, it never achieved the "Set and forget" level of performance that I had first envisioned.

I can perfectly relate to Neil's experiences as mentioned and I could also write a book's worth of all my failed designs whilst not fully understanding why things are designed they way they are.
There are not many DIY entry level printers that are designed and built on solid engineering principles, and when I saw Neil's design, I was hooked. Considering that I have a penchant for perfectionism and have little cash to throw around, I introduced a few more physical and cost constraints. But considering family and work requirements, there has been little time left to continue building this impressive machine.

Before I continue further, I need to make serious mention that the time and effort to create a 3D printer like this can be longer than the time to master certain basic workshop skills. If you are not very focused on your objective, you can go down a long and winding path, trying to design and improve all sorts of machines. Along the way I bought an entry-level drill press with a collet that introduced wobble on the chuck, and, not being satisfied with the accuracy I could get out of it, I went further and bought a slide vice, which is a great tool, but only two weeks ago did I find a solution to stop the drill chuck from wobbling. Since then, I have so much more capability. Using the drill press to tap holes has also been a game changer. My slide vice has a thread pitch of 3mm, so I have recently realized that basic drilling can be done by counting the revs of the handle on the slide vice. To 3D print an object or not should be a consideration. I have designed about 5 or so designs that used elaborately 3D printed parts which in fact can actually be achieved using flat metal plates, which are infinitely more durable. What it cost me to print these parts likely far outweighs the cost of buying the stock parts, or being able to make basic parts from aluminium. If you think of it, this is what OpenBuilds is trying to achieve - standardization, which in turn reduces costs and allows people to focus on the outcome of creating things that other people can use.

I have posted a pic of my machine below (in the background). The machine is built by recycling 50% of the Tevo Tarantula's parts, and using as few parts as possible. This has turned out to be a 3d puzzle of note. I cannot tell how many times I have shifted things around on the printer to find a way to maximize the build volume, make everything fit, whilst keeping the costs low, and trying to make it as ergonomic as possible. The printer frame is 460 x 440 mm and I get an xy movement of 310 x 360mm in the XY plane. Not too worried about the height at this stage. There is still a bit of ground to cover, but in the coming months, if the tide turns, I will complete it and post the finished design.

We all need a bit of recognition from time to time, so thanks to Neil for the inspiration.

I have just recently learnt about a belt printer, and it seems that Creality has taken over the market for 3d printers in general, but guess a belt printer will be my next big project that will keep me engaged for the next few years

Cheers,
Mike

 

It may not appear to you that it's true but you'll achieve much better results if you put the printer on a solid surface and not on two surfaces one on each end.

 

Thanks Justin, it actually has screw mounts that I will use to bed it down properly when I get it finished

 

What slicer settings should I use to print out the parts? (ie layer density etc)

 

I converted the Dash X Direct.STEP file into a FreeCAD file, I will attach the file.

The only issue I have seen so far from converting the model from a .step file into the FreeCAD format is the orientation is off. When viewing the model in FreeCAD 0.21.2 and you choose top view, the front view of the model is given.

 

The E3D Hemera is getting phased out. What modes are required to use the lighter/smaller Hemera XS? Any thoughts on the BIQU H2 V2S Revo as a substitute?

Thanks in advance!