Scotty Orr submitted a new resource: C-Beam RIDE Boot - This is an adjustable height dust boot that attaches directly to a Z-axis C-beam. Read more about this resource...
If you decide to build a RIDE boot for yourself and have a different router (than my Makita), you should check the dimensions of your collet nut. I only have the Makita and I don't know if the RoutER11 or the DeWalt have the same size nuts. The design gives the Makita ~1.3mm clearance around the spinning nut.
The RoutER11 should be compatible. The collet nut wrench will not work on my other machine with a Makita because it is too small. Also, I thank you for saving me work. I was thinking of designing and building some thing similar since my previous dust boot is out of commission. Also, I wanted a see through design. I did not like my solid colored 3D printed design.
My previous design was also all 3D printed and I hated that I couldn't see what was going on. I've been cutting a lot of acrylic lately (for other things) and the old boot just didn't handle acrylic chips well at all and they stuck to everything! So far I'm very happy with this one.
I should also mention: if you have an OB led light ring, the wiring port will probably collide with this boot. You may want to cut out an extra notch in the side plate on that side.
been thinking about going with another dust boot, my 3d printed works decent but cannot run it all the time depending on what I am cutting. It is fixed to the router mount so sometimes it can be too close or too far from the work surface and how long the bit is. May give this one a shot, looks to work well and well designed and thought out!
My compliments to the chef This is one of the very few projects online which works/fits/builds exactly as described. Amazing. Everything worked perfectly. Had to make some minor adjustments: A) I could only source 10mm acrylic for the right and left plate. This meant that the holes on the top and middle plates would be off by 0.5mm on each side. So I 3d printed a little jig which a) offset the holes on the side of the R/L plates by 1mm and also marked the location for drilling (as I could not machine those). It worked like a charm. B) I use a Kress 1050 on my C-beam. This meant that I had to use an adapter to connect the Kress to the holder. Also, because the Kress is so "short" I 3d printed an extension plate to lower the Kress nearer to the machine base. This changed the center of the Kress by 10mm. So I offset the hole in the top plate by 10mm and made it's opening a bit smaller as the collet nut is smaller as well. It worked very well indeed. I would like to thank you for a super design which is really going to make life so much easier and cleaner! D