Maybe I overstated the "don't work" part just a bit...

I was told that because the endstops themselves use pull up resistors they will not work when connected through the standard limit/endstop pins on the smoothieboard. It was suggested that I could use other raw pins available on the board. However, on a five driver board with a lcd attached I'm not sure that solution would work. I might just switch over to "normal" micro switches.

Brian

 

I am in love with those end apps that Nick turned us on to. The fit perfect on the 20mm side of the extrusion.

 

What do you think of this configuration. I just decided to back these guys and got an extruder + fans and such for 99$. I like the concept of the interchangable nozzles based on print temps. Stacker 4 , I am not sure what I think of the printer design, but the extruder looks promising.

 

if u r talking about the 5mm hole, yes. That is strange, I would have thought that the membrane would cause support as opposed to the small addition for the smaller hole. Experience says it all. Thks.

 

Carl,

I've got a couple of questions...

1) What firmware and version/branch are you using? Could you provide a link?
2) Could you provide a copy of the configuration.h file that you are using?
3) Are homing to the upper/far left corner? Is that x-0 & y=0 or x=0 & y=ymax?

Thanks,
Brian

 

Strange. endstop pulls the line to ground. The smoothie board has a solder jumper to use 3.3v or 5v on the endstop inputs. That may have something to do with it - if it is set to 3.3v and the endstop have 5v supply. - THANKS, I just realized I wired my endstops to 12v on my build, got to change that before 1st power.

 

You have a horizontal, counter bore hole, with the narrow cylinder above the wider one. The narrow cylinder will try and print in the air. By putting in a .2mm layer in between it provides a surface for the narrow cylinder to be printed onto. The layer is thin enough that you really don't need to worry about while assembling, and on my printer is move of a few connecting threads versus a"layer". You can now print the part with no (slicer) support generated.

 

U mean VERTICAL don't u?? -- I guess I don't get it either. U r saying that what is printed is a "cylinder" and not a "hole" so the slicer creates support for empty space of an object "cylinder". Since the bottom hole/cylinder isn't that big there is no reason for it to create support for the layer above the bottom hole/cylinder. Then if it were a large bottom hole (maybe 20mm) it would end up creating support for the layer, so one would then make it connect to avoid TWO "support" structures? Weird! Glad I asked - another learning experience. Thx

 

So a horizontal hole, creates a vertical cylinder. I was using the plane the hole pierced as a reference. I might also add that adding this thin layer really does provide better support for the main bore. this is looking up at the bottom of the part. no support

With support 30%/70% infill / dense infill ( S3d varied the support density in between that range depending on the situation ) .

 

Carl,

Thanks! That's very similar to how mine is configured at this point though I'm still struggling with the endstops. Are you using all three wires from the endstops to the ramps board(signal, ground and VCC)?
Brian

 

Carl
What insures that the X axis homes first? If Y is at 0, and u home X, it seems like u have a crash into the endstop.
I put a estop on the hot end assy. Since I can't see the LED I may only run 1 wire and use a common ground with the thermistors. Otherwise there is no need for 5V. The inputs are pulled up on the bd. That gives me 4 wire for each tube.

 

I really don't know what's going on with my clone endstops but leaving the red (VCC) wire unplugged on the RAMPS board make them work properly. That's good enough for me at this point!

I also have what I think is some pretty good news. I'm have my printer homing the Y axis (max) first. This allows me to have the X & Y axis in the "correct" orientation as viewed from the front of the printer. I only need added one #define to the configuration.h file and some very small code changes to the marlin_main.cpp file. I'll post the code if anyone is interested.

Cheers,
Brian

 

Yes, the restriction on homing to maximums has been removed in the latest version of Marlin. I've already verified that my code changes work with my GLCD. Now I just need to do a bit more testing to make sure it works with other G28 variations (e.g. G28 X0 Y0). I'll post the code soon...probably tomorrow.

 

All of this repreap gcode and config file talk, has made me feel better and better about the mighyboard and .x3g

What are you opinions on filament oiling? I saw that Carl has one posting at thingi. I did some manual rubbing on some filament yesterday, and thought that it had printed a little better. I had always been against it, mostly due to my culinary background. I know about oils and smokepoints and what happens to oil when it breaks down / burns, and thought it was a bad idea to put it through a hot end.

 

Carl,

As promised, I've attached the code for my modified version of Marlin. Please test and let me know how it work.

Brian

 

Any suggestions for a product cooling fan mount?
I have 30mm fans mounted for the 2 hotends. Would like one 40mm fan for the product fan.

 

I have several blower style fans I use with great success on my Mini Kossel. I'm nowhere near ready to start assembling(still waiting on miter saw and some misc parts) but when I do I'll post an stl file of a mount for this style of fan:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Brushless-Cooling-Blower-5015S/dp/B008P72QYS

This type is available in 5V, 12V and 24V. I have run the 5V version from my Azteeg X5 12V fan output at 75% without it overheating. The 12v variant runs at 100% with no issues.

 

Hey Carl, I have been using your suggestion to split stl file parts up with slic3r but ran into an issue with the the H bar ends file where the parts I split up and export are showing up as invalid in netfabb and simplify3d. Any other suggestions on how to split them? I am able to split most files in netfabb as well but this particular file one is giving both programs a hard time.

Edit: Nevermind! managed to do it in Meshmixer

 

I was looking at the DVR8825s (actually bought a cheap set from China). In reading about them and the Ramps, I was getting conflicting information if they were true drop in replacements. I would see one person say they just plugged them in and they worked. Someone else would say they are drop in replacements *IF* you added some resistor across some pins.

So I was wanting to hear directly from someone who did it. Are the DVR8825 boards direct plugin replacements or did you have to do some mods to get them to work?

 

I got a Ramps 1.4 with five 8825s off of aliexpress. Everything seems to work fine. Granted I've only done some basic testing at this point--no actual printing yet.

 

Do they plug in the same orientation as the other one? Trim pot will go on the same side?