I am sure you will have already figured it out and got the VFD programmed and in operation but as I also have the same MKS DLC32 controller and was looking at the manual to see the outputs that could be used for controlling a VFD. It has a PWM voltage output 0V~12V or 0V~24V (depending on the voltage of the PSU) but this is used for Laser power modulation. There is also a Spindle speed output 0-12V or 0-24V. Considering most of the VFD controllers have 0-5v or 0 -10v input. I see a problem of how to control the 1.5kw spindles that usually have a speed range of 600-24000rpm when the MKS output range is 0-12v. Would one need to get some sort of a voltage reducing PWM PCB ?
The laser TTL signal wire is 5v and I’m 99% sure I can use it to drive the H100. Although TBH, it’s been a while since I did my research, so I’m hoping this is correct. This is what I used to drive the grb_spd controller. Edit: here’s a post on using 5v PWM: How to: H100 VFD & 1.5KW Air-Cooled Spindle Setup - Zhong Hua Jiang
Thanks for sharing the interesting How To article, I must say there are quite a few steps/workarounds needed in order to integrate different controllers to these VFD controllers. I was pleased to learn that you are already using the MKS 3 pin TTL Laser PWM output to good effect for speed modulation for your your existing Makita router.
They are impressively flexible, which is good for us hobbyists! I didn’t get much done today, just a 3D printed bezel for the VFD, and I shortened the remote cable to a sensible length.
I like the front panel layout - no clutter nice and simple. The internal wiring and layout of the components is very tidy and easily accessible for troubleshooting etc. You know as tinkerers, we never stop tinkering so for now best to focus on testing and configuring.
Thanks mate. I’m hoping to get the bulk of the wiring done tomorrow, and I’m still waiting for my 12v din mount PSU to arrive. Although that only prevents me from connecting the 12v cooling fan.
Curious to know. What is it like down under, can you drive to a local shop to get simple hobby electronic parts or is it mainly online sourcing from Aliexpress and the likes?
It’s generally pretty good, Jaycar has replaced Tandy Electronics (Radio Shack) since it was ruined by incompetent new owners (Intertan sold it to Woolworths who are unable to run anything that isn’t a supermarket or bottle shop). More specialised items need to be ordered online, but for general everyday emergency components and maker gear, Jaycar are pretty good. We do have a lot at really good specialist online retailers too, eg Altronics, Core Electronics, MakerStore etc. they have retail outlets too, but in very small numbers and frequently limited to a single state.
Tandy Electronics aka Radio Shack - oh that brings back old memories. Here in the UK they also had stores along with Woolworths who sold household goods. They all went out of business at the turn of the century. We had a few mailorder/retailers and I used own one of them specializing PCB fabrication, batch and prototype component assembly/soldering services and complimented it with supplying various TTL/CMOS and Linear semiconductors to hobbists and later started to supply retail/mail-order of spare/parts to the TV/VCR repair shops and independent engineers across the country but ater about 20yrs with the cheap far eastern imports the repair engineers were all put out of business and I branched out into the computing world since the mid 90's and thru in the towel due to health reasons a few years ago but still trying to keep the brain ticking by continuing to dable with electronics
Nice! I’m a little bit younger that you, I was born in 75 so started my career as a computer / printer technician in the mid 90’s, right as most components became consumables. Doh! Now I specialise in IT Service Management and run the Change, Incident and Problem function for the Asia pacific division of GPC (NAPA, Repco, Motion etc).
Yes I remember the good old ITIL that no one in management fully understood let alone followed. Hang in there!
These days it’s very firmly entrenched in IT, especially in Australia. I’m certified up to Practitioner level on v3, but haven’t been bothered to do v4. It’s really just “lean ITIL”, which is what I’ve always done anyway because I hate bureaucracy. You need a certain amount of process to de-risk the IT business, but everything after that is just getting in everyone’s way. I think that’s probably why people like me.
I settled on this layout with the PSU upside down, hopefully the electrons won’t fall out! edit: I think that worked well: But I’m not thrilled with the chain-flex cabling, it’s a royal pain to work with as its internal wire sheathing is not heat resistant at all. Other than that, it’s great.
With two Noctua fans circulating the air in/out with dust filters fitted there will be no issue with residue heat. With soldering of the GX terminals - first twist and tin all the wire ends. Then apply a touch of flux to each GX connector pin and solder the individual wires to get a perfect soldered joint where the wire appears as though it has fused with the connector.
I decided to just use 1 Noctua fan blowing in to produce positive pressure and hopefully reduce dust ingest. The soldering part wasn’t the issue and I did use flux, it looks bad because The wire insulation was melting almost instantly and I got frustrated. I was tired and that didn’t help. You’d think if I could manage 0.2mm pitch SMD QFP’s, I could manage 0.75mm2 wire. Very frustrating. My plan is to use longer wire sections and tidy things up with heat shrink.
That is a good point actually, I don’t recall what Reno I was using, but normally I run at about 300-320c. I might try 280c instead.
You better put a bucket under the PSU, to collect the electrons, and a perpetual motion pump or you'll run out of electrons eventually. Will that not be counter productive since it will blow dusty air in? I run my solder iron at 430c. I think you are running yours too cold and need to hold it to the solder point too long.
No, it creates positive pressure inside the case making it harder for dust to get in in the first place. Hmm, that is worth a try.
But if the source of the pressure is not filtered, its blowing in the dusty air Positive pressure systems for like clean rooms has filter array to clean air > fan to force clean air into room > clean room > vent with restrictions to build up pressure > release
I have filters on the intake and exhaust. I clean my equipment regularly, and my little blower thingy should come in handy for this cabinet. i mainly use it for drying pcb’s after they’ve been through my ultrasonic cleaner, but it’s great for dusting loads of things. https://youtube.com/shorts/jhJICbZ69pc?si=cH8Lx2yaD5hFt_hY
