I tapped the ends of all the axes using my m5x8mm screws. It took about 15min per screw. I used vegetable oil for lubricant and dabbed off the removed aluminum with a paper towel. I can definitely remove and rescrew the screws. I think self-tapping screws can have problems cause they will re-tap if you screw them in wrong the second time. Maybe if you just used one self-tapping screw on all the holes and then after it's tapped use a normal screw it will be reuseable?

 

Thanks, I don't really want to buy a dedicated tap and die for just a couple of holes, but I also know that pretty much every screw I have used has been in and out multiple times before I have worked out how it is supposed to go together.

Also, I borrowed your 20x80 z axis idea. Works better with my custom spindle mount, and should be a bit more stable.

 

Cheapest I can find in the UK is closer to $10.

 

Here are some files based on my version of the Routy CNC, I hope it helps in the parts list debate but bear in mind this version is slightly different from the openbuilds version.

1. I use Domed bolts a lot more, I think it helps make the machine look a little better than using T-Nuts or Low Profile screws
2. My Z axis is different, I think it is simpler and it utilizes the anti-backlash Delrin Nut featured on this forum elsewhere, mine has been adapted to suit V-Slot and Makerslide profiles and it is thicker than the one featured elsewhere.
3. I use Cast connectors rather than L plates a lot more on my builds, I think it gives the machine a bit more rigidity.... Routy-Y-Axis2.pdf
4. I use 4 hole Plates instead of 3.
5. Other stuff may be different as well!
6. I hope, given time, to produce a reference for the X and Y axis the same as I have on the Z, plus reference charts for the gantry sections, arms and other parts. I will upload them when they are complete.
7. The build will change again soon as I want to utilize other components to make the build simpler. I will post details again when the build changes.

 

hello all from spain!
I'm finishing the this project. I have used a cnc shield grbl (without soldering), arduino and pololu 4988.
This week will have a lead screw (from UK).
I will post photos soon! (I hope).
Sorry for my english.

 

Great job. I would prefer a thicker z axis if you are going to put a lot of weight on it though. Maybe even a double gantry plate somehow? Some of those routers are huge!

welcome, nice to see lots of builds coming together

 

I don't think the Routy as it stands warrants a thicker Z axis... in my eyes it is has been developed to cut ply woods, mdf, plastics, even thin soft metals like aluminium sheet. Of course given the right build and the right spindle with of course the proper tool bit it can cut far more materials than that as is proven by Mark's use of his Routy machine to cut Garolite, however I would still class the Routy as a very light CNC machine so putting a large router on the frame is expecting a little too much.

The OX is far better suited for the larger Routers.

 

This is how my Z axis works... it uses SK shaft supports which come in a great deal of sizes, any of which can be placed onto the 2020 horizontal profile.. and it is very rigid but it does lose a portion of the Y axis cut length.

 

I like the flexi shaft spindle on your site, but 43W seems a little light even for wood. How does it perform on a routy?

 

I hope to make a video of it cutting soon, lack of time just beats me. This spindle will actually cut brass and aluminium, but it is a light spindle, more of a hobby spindle if you like but it will cut a lot of materials with the correct tool bit. The correct tool bit is far more important than spindle ability or power.

 

I'm thinking of using a Raspberry Pi with the piTFT from adafruit to interface with my Arduino and GRBL shield.

http://www.adafruit.com/products/1601

 

Hey guys! Grand opening of Protodrake.ca!
10% of all orders this week using coupon code : grand opening
The 10% also works for the Routy kits!
Hope to see you all soon!

 

Back with another question. What are people using for lubricant on their leadscrew? A specialist product or something more general?

 

I don’t know if this is relevant but I have ballscrews and I just use a standard multigrade engine oil (sparingly).

Tweakie.

 

Could I use the same electronics bundle as used on the Ox? In the build sheet it says to use the version 5 shield. Also the guy who sells the bundle is out of stock anywhere else to buy them in the USA?

 

Yes, you could. There are lots of options for electronics, including the TinyG, the gShield and the protoneer CNC shield. All three are good choices for the Routy. You just need to make sure that whatever you buy can provide enough current for your motors.

 

I currently have it working with a gShield v5 (by synthetos, website says it will be back in stock mid-February ) on an Arduino U3. Loading software into Arduino was pretty simple ( https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Flashing-Grbl-to-an-Arduino using Windows and XLoader) and Sketchup with PhlatBoyz SketckUCam add-in. Still playing around cutting some 1/4" plywood for practice, to make better brackets to hold Dremel tool. I have ordered some garlite and aluminum from McMasters Carr which should get here today, then I may try some V-Plates. Playing around with different bits and speeds. Setup seems pretty robust, I had to change around the wires until I got everything running the right direction, and nothing burned out. Does seem I will need to run this pretty slow to keep accurate with multiple passes ... I plan to try tgFX and TinyG at some point in the future, plus the gShield v5 with Arduino Due as it will automatically switch to the 3.3 volts.

 

Were did you guys end up buying the lead screw and nut? I don't see it on the open builds site.

 

There was some info about this in earlier emails that I followed ... here is what I ordered. I modified the Flange Nut into a wood block ... note this includes two 12" lead screws ...

Shipping for 3-day Fedex was about $12 for sending to Texas ...

Seems to work good for me ... I measured and calibrated the setting based on actual movement.


Part NumberDescriptionQtyLengthUnit PriceLine Price
60764Hi-Lead Screw, 1/4 X .250, RH, Stainless Steel
Lead time: 1 - 2 business days212.00$14.94$29.88
91948Hi-Lead Flange Nut, 1/4 X .250, RH, Plastic
Lead time: 1 - 2 business days1$13.71$13.71
91186Hi-Lead Threaded Mount Nut, 1/4 X .250, RH, Plastic
Lead time: 1 - 2 business days1$27.29$27.29
Note:Sub Total:
Tax:
Shipping & Handling:

Total:$70.88
$.00
$.00

$70.88
All shipping & handling costs not billed collect will be prepaid and added to the invoice.

 

By the way, seems Mark and most people now though are recommending an 8 mm screw ... for a bit more heft.

 

I got a 8mm screw and ant backlash nut from QTecStore on ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOW-COST-...360?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257a92a348

(note 190mm, which will not give you a very large z travel). You probably need to adjust the spacing with an 8mm screw, as the nut is too deep for the current build. It was a real pain to get it right. (In fact the Z-Axis has been 10x more trouble than the rest of the machine, and I'm still not happy with it).

 

I made mine from threaded rod. I think it's 7/16" with 16 threads/inch. I used 608 bearings and ground the ends to hold the bearings and fit the flexible coupling. It's pretty fast with the right settings and my nema17 seems to be able to handle it.

 

Mine is teflon grease. The bottle says "breach plug" grease. It really stinks too. I think that spray on silicone lube might work too but not sure.

 

Breach plug grease? That sounds like something you'd use on a submarine.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll start with some 3 in 1 and see how I go.

 

Breech? Breach? I think the teflon is what matters... try this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Sherline-7550...&qid=1391681529&sr=8-7&keywords=grease+teflon

 

With certain plastic nuts, lubrication is not needed ...
I found out yesterday garlite cuts easier than plywood, at least with 1/16" Dremel tile grouting bit I am using which cuts it pretty good in 1.2 mm passes at speed of 400).