Rick, contacting Chris Laidlaw is likely what I will end up doing, I got my OX-cnc plates from him and his workmanship is pure art. I was curious if there were any other off the shelf options available for mounting a full sized router on a Open-Builds Z-Axis assembly before I bothered Chris. The Colt mount I have on my OX came from Inventibles and I see Mark now offers a similar sized mount here in the Open Builds parts store. I want to be able to run 1/2" shank bits on the Roto-OX so the Colt with its 1/4" collet will just not get the job done. I went with a full sized router from a national hardware chain here in Canada. Some of the stuff Canadian Tire sells is junk but their Mastercraft line of tools have always had a stellar reputation so I picked up a Mastercraft router for the Roto-OX (the fact that I had a $100.00 gift card for Canadian Tire didn't hurt either). I think I will Sketch-up a model of the router mounting barrel later this week and send it to Chris to see what he thinks about a mount. Doug M
Chris Laidlaw made mine for a DeWalt, that I think was 80+mm so I know he can do it. Came out nice and he made mount possibilities for dust collection in it. Give him a shout.
I know its quick and dirty but it can be adjusted to the size your after and its very strong! http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-ox-cnc-machine.341/
sorry, but I just cringe when I see that. My brain understands that it has the"strength" to hold it, but my experience says it doesn't have the accuracy to hold it for repeatable results. Should be close enough, but it is like plastic endstop holders on chrome hardened rod...eventually they slip just a tiny bit, but enough to be annoying. And really, if you thin about it...you are building a kick-@ss new tool, so why introduce hose clamps into the mix. Sorta like Taking the hot chick to the dance in a burlap sack
LOL so true Digger , but if your like me I usually get to this end point of a build and get excited to give it a go. I know its not the best for a permanent solution but being these straps are stainless they hold and I have never had one slip in all the cutting I have done (lots). So if your in one of those just gotta see it in action moods and not so worried on looks, this works
Sorry to be so slow with updates on the Roto-OX but I have been traveling quite a bit for work lately and have had limited opportunities to play with this project. The good news is I have had the Roto-OX moving under its own power and have managed to round off a square oak blank. I moved the Colt router assembly from my OX-CNC over to the Roto-OX to see how things would work until I have time to track down Chris Laidlaw and order up a mount for my larger router. I have been using some higher end carving software to generate the G-code for the Roto-OX but have not yet been able to get a code that will do quite what I expect it too. I defined the workpiece and set the zero at the top of the blank but then the G-code proceeds to lift the router up to something like 15mm-20mm above the blank before starting the cutting process. The lifting at the beginning of the cutting process means most of the process occurs completely off of the blank. I am likely not going to have too much time to try figuring out what is wrong with my G-code generation before the end of summer but I figured I would let you guys know that I have made some progress and aside from the software configuration issues, the Roto-OX is working essentially as I had planned (even with the 1/4" hardboard plates as opposed to aluminum). Stay tuned for more updates once summer starts to wind down. Doug M
Glad to see your back at it @dougsnash, I really like this project and hope to see some of the projects that can be done with it. My suggestions would be to check to see if your Z axis is not running in reverse. If it is just turn off the power and sway the two motor coils wires to run the motor in the opposite direction. Power back up and give that a go. If that does not work check your software (I know in Aspire I ran into a similar problem) and although I cannot remember what we did to fix it (of course) I believe it was something that we had to put a negative number on the Z safe travel, but I really am not sure now. You will need to check that if Aspire is what you use. There may be more guys here running the same software so you may want to ask here as well.
Mark, I was trying to avoid naming the software I was using but you nailed it. I will play with the safe height settings a bit when I get a chance and see if I can get the software to spit out better G-code. As for the Z-axis being wired backwards, no, the Z-axis is doing exactly what the G-code is telling it to do so I am sure it is a software issue and not mechanical/electrical. One issue which I have not completely sorted out yet is the motor settings for the A-Axis. I have the Tiny-G controller board and they have several different setup examples for the traditional X-Y-Z setups but the Tiny-G wiki has little information for how to set up the A-Axis. I have the A-axis running but I am not sure it is responding the the G-code quite right yet. I just need to find some time to play with the software some more. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Doug M
I thought that may have been the one. Very nice software, but I ran into this same issue I am sorry that I can't remember how to fix it but its one of those things that once you find it seems so simple. I wish you the best with it. One suggestion is you may want to scour their forums for the same question. As for the TinyG A axis issue. Not sure about that one as I have not used the TinyG yet. I am sure that one of the guys here who has will jump in to help field your question. You may also want to check out this TinyG Resources tutorial by Akfreak http://www.openbuilds.com/resources/how-to-setup-configure-an-ox-cnc-controlled-by-a-tinyg-v8.146/ Hope this helps Mark
G'day Doug, Have you got it all sorted? I was very happy with the results I was able to achieve, but the whole thing was a bit flexible. I've completely torn it down & am well on the way to a new build. All the joined up bits weren't a tearing success! If you don't mind me asking,what ended up being your Z axis problem?
Honestly, I kind of got distracted from this project. I did make some great progress on a monster 3D-printer project I've been working on but nothing on the Roto-OX. I have not disassembled the Roto-OX yet so I hope to get back to it once my work schedule settles down a bit. Mark suggested a fix in Aspire which will hopefully fix my Z-axis unusual behaviour. Also, I am not convinced the Tiny-G is necessarily the best board to run this machine. I have not found a better controller necessarily but I don't like the inability to jog all axis outputs that is a limitation to the Tiny-G. I will update when I make some more progress. Doug M
lathe Gcode can operate in 2 modes, radius and diameter. in radius mode feeding .5" will move the cutter .5 inch in diameter mode feeding .5" will move the cutter 0.25" to remove 0.5" from the diameter maybe your Z lifting too high is because the software thinks it is in one mode when the axis is in the other mode?
Hi guys last week i want to make an small (very small) lathe, to start and test how can later make an bigger one. I mainly wants, to work with small pieces of wood, for example 1" x 3" will be great to start, but think that the cost will be the same as if i build some mill for bigger wood pieces! I will use hiwin rails size 12 (or 15) for linear movements, and nema 23 (will be enough)? I will use ballscrews 16mm. Someone know from where can i purchase the Aluminum Profiles (from china)? and the Rotary Axis Spindle and Tailstock Set? Btw which size you think that will be the best cost-benefit
You might want to look at sources like Banggood. They have a few of the items you are looking for : http://www.banggood.com/SANOU-3-Jaw-Lathe-Chuck-K11-80-80mm-Manual-Chuck-Self-centering-Lathe-Parts-p-1121662.html http://www.banggood.com/Three-Jaw-Lathe-Chuck-M121-45mm-Chuck-for-Mini-6-in-1-Lathe-p-1118812.html http://www.banggood.com/63mm-Metal-Lathe-Chuck-Mini-Metalworking-Three-Jaw-Machine-Accessories-p-1118178.html http://www.banggood.com/MT2-Precision-Rotary-Live-Center-Taper-Metalworking-Lathe-Chuck-Stock-p-938413.html Along with a few other goodies which might help you get started at a low cost. They even have this (small) complete kit for less than 60$cnd (!!) which look like it would fit your early 'test' needs : http://www.banggood.com/DC-24V-Mini-Lathe-Beads-Machine-Polish-Woodworking-DIY-Tools-80-100W-p-1121255.html I would not expect much. But, heck, at that price, I might even give it a try before getting on the big (old) ShopSmith I got from my dad. I use mostly its table saw mode, sometimes its drill press mode but never got around to using its lathe mode.
It looks as if its been over 2 years since the last comment from the builder. I am looking to build a rotary carving CNC and this looks good, but i was wondering how this finally turned out. Any comments/suggestions on this or where else I might start?
Hey there, thanks for your interest in my build. As you can see, the original posting of this build was a few years ago. I really have no idea what the total cost was to get the project as far as I did. I never did get the build functioning with the controller or software I was using. The TinyG interface doesn't have a jog control for the A-axis which made things difficult to run in manual. Additionally, I was not able to get the version of Aspire I have to run the A-axis correctly. I still have the unit sitting on a shelf and now that I have converted my workflow over to Fusion 360, I might dust it off and give the Roto-OX another go one of these days. Doug M
Seriously considering this build - I need the length as I do work for a baseball bat company and this would be perfect. Any reason(s) I should not proceed...?
While it was state of the art 10 years ago, better solutions have come along since. Consider LEAD Lathe | OpenBuilds. It's easily modified if you need a longer length.
* Edit: Rick beat me by a couple minutes posting. I built a lathe with mostly off the shelf components. LEAD Lathe It could have been all off the shelf, but I needed to get rid on some small off cuts of aluminum so I made a couple myself. now Open builds sells a shim for the spindle mount for a smaller 65mm router so that would also be "off the shelf" compared to the one I had to order from overseas. It will cut just under a yard in length, but that is only because I had no need to go longer. The info is here to include the postprocessor for Vectric software. But to answer your last question, there is no reason not to proceed.