I requested the same in the notes of my order.

Sorry to be a hassle mark - but I want this first build to have a fighting chance

 

My Prusa I3 Rework is a dog and has given very little time in printing since I made it (Feb 2014) and thousands of hours tweaking until it no longer prints (long story). So, I am looking for something sturdy, and not too pricey, that I can just turn it on and print. Would be even cooler if I could do an interchangeable head where 3d printing or router. That would kill two birds with one stone though I would swap out the bed as one would be heated and the other the MDF sacrificial board.

 

Exactly. Being one of the not so experienced, I was just raising the point for the growing number of new comers. A 'beware' as some might be tempted to hog into the material and then blame the machine. With aluminium, one tends to skim the material in multiple passes although I have seen videos where some take much more than .3 - .5 mm at a time with no issues ... must be their speeds ? The machine used ? Not go off on a tangent, I'm sticking to the rule of thumb of "1/2 diameter of mill" working even with wood. However when using a router by hand, I've seen many go much deeper ... trenching in a single pass even ! I am still learning so I could be way off in left field ...

If not already done, maybe you could include some ... suggestions ... along with the C-beam Machine as to its proper use - the depth of cut, feeds, speeds, etc. Possibly with documented examples as a guide : we used this mill, at these speeds, feeds and depth of cut in this material centred on the table, taking x minutes to complete. I think I have seen a video recently with some of these aspects covered ...

The C-beam Machine is the new OX with a kit for entry level. Great starting point for many... We should make certain users understand their are limits with the starter configuration, not necessarily with the design : steroids not included.

 

For those that are looking for a way to cut the vslot by hand for there first build i found this build this morning. http://openbuilds.com/builds/v-slot-cutting-system.2138/#openbuilds_files

There are sketch up files in there so it should be possible to extend to 60x20 rather than just the 40x20 that it currently is.

 

Nice find!

 

I just went ahead and ordered the Bosch Colt before realizing that Precisebits is no longer supporting the collet kits. It seems I could get a better 1/4" and 3/16" still, but it appears the nut needed is not available??? I'll call when they open.

My question is: has anyone tried the Galaxy Products collets for the Bosch Colt?

Thanks

 

Thanks so much Mark!

It turns out that after speaking with Precisebits I canceled the Bosch order and went with the Dewalt 611. I know I'll need to shim it - but I've got a box of precision shim sheets from McMaster that should handle that nicely.

Really appreciate the cuts!

 

Hey. Who doesn't love some LED lights

I think the concern from Precisebits has been the more recent QC from Bosch for the Colt specifically, and they have since stopped providing collets and nuts for the Colt (there may be collets still available - but the required nuts are no longer on the site).

I wanted to follow your lead (and many others I've read) and replace the collet with something a bit more substantial, with tighter tolerances and less runout. Also, opening it up to 1/8" end mills was appealing. I accept this is a light machine - but it can't hurt to start with a decent baseline.

Any idea when these bundles will ship? I've got most parts on the way. Really looking forward to getting this build started, and appreciate all the support.

 

Mark i say that would be fantastic having the bits cut by default would be fantastic.

I am going to be using a spare Ridgid R2400 that i have had for a couple of years. The diamater is 56.5mm will it fit the mount that is coming or do i need to start printing out a mount

 

Just got the shipping notification! Things are about to get real exciting real quick

Appreciate the help.

 

Mark i have just up loaded a step file for the c-beam under the parts / resources. As the sketch-up file was well less than optimal when loaded in to fusion 360.

I see that in theory my parts could be out for delivery as we speak.

 

Woot Mark i have a package that has just arrived. Now the only issue is i am supposed to be best man at a wedding tomorrow not home building a cnc.

 

Wedding will have to wait

 

Wow a lot of info going on here. Im new to this and ordered a kit couple of days ago, so waiting on it. I found a Xpro board at sparks website and it just came in today.. Need to decide on which router to use and get it ordered. My question is there software to run on a mac to control the system or is everyone using PCs to run it. Ive got a couple of 3D printers and use mac and PI with octoprint to run them, but the CNC seems to be a little different, why I'm asking.. Thanks

 

Ordered the C-Beam Machine Bundle with the Motor Option. Great Design Well Done!! Question - The CNC xPRO V2 is out of Stock ... Is that the best one to use? Is there another controller that you feel might be a better option? Also, when it comes to power supplies, Should I order the 12v supply for Nema 23 Stepper Motors or the 24v? Once again the C-Beam is exactly what I have been wishing for Thank you!

 

caHopkins you can use Octoprint to do the CNC as well.

MetalDesigner you should use the 24v for Stepper motor. You may want to consider a TinyG it is about the same price and may do everything that you want. (It is what i am using in my build)

 

Davey Rance
Not sure but the Octoprint on PI is set up to send gcode to a Ramps1.4/mega2560 combo running Marlin code on the audrin.. I know enough about some of this stuff to get myself into serious troubles..
I went to spark-concepts.com and they had the Xpro board in stock and got it shipped to me in 3 days from them..
I ordered the 12V supply with the kit but thinking should have gone with the 24V one..
Ive been working with 3D printers and just learning the gcode for them, don't know how that will refers to the cnc though, more to study..

 

Looks like my machine is on the vehicle for delivery today! Thanks @Mark Carew and the folks at OpenBuilds

This is my first CNC build (built a Delta Rostock 3D printer last year) so I did a bunch of research on Gecko 540, and both the tinyG and the xPRO V2. I figured for my first build I would choose the cheaper, USB connectivity option.

Between the tinyG and xPRO I realized at one point that I didn't feel one was necessarily better than the other (or more likely I just didn't know enough about this stuff to know any better!), but that both seemed to have equal lists of pros and cons. So when the xPRO was out of stock at OpenBuilds, I ended up with the TinyG.

TinyG wiki mentions the use of Mac, and I will try that first. The most common program (chillipepper) needs Internet to function, which may be an issue for some whose shop doesn't have wifi. Apparently there are some other softwares that will work without the net though. I do have a PC laptop (running Windows 7) I could use, if driving the tinyG via mac becomes an issue.

Good luck guys. Seems like we will have a healthy community of noobs here to support one another with the builds - and the greater forum of experts to back is up when needed

 

Yes, I hadn't planed to use marlin , besides it won't run on the audrino chip on the Xpro board.. was why i was asking what control software I could get for my Mac or do I need to dust off a old pc machine to run the system? The drafting prog, is no problem already have sketchup and should be able to add the plugin for the cnc system but have not been able to find control software for the Mac just for PC ..

 

Ok Z and X axis are built. Great videos Mark it makes it super easy. Now need to go and do stuff for the rest of the day and tomorrow

 

Just got the delivery - both OpenBuilds parts and router arrived together.

And away we go!

 

@Mark Carew

I started piecing together the build based on your video (unbelievably helpful!). Found that the flex coupling for the Z axis will only allow me to place it onto the acme screw leaving 2mm gap from end plate. I know you said there should be .5mm, but will 2mm cause issues?

I looked inside the bore and can't see any burrs. Ran a needle file gently inside and polished the end of the acme screw a hair - but still no dice.

The flex coupler from the other bag fits all the way down onto the acne screw no problems.

Thanks

 

@Mark Carew

Shot you an email at the contact via parts store. Not sure if you're around on weekends. Need a few things.

Thanks.

 

A good option is Smoothieboard with Smoothieware
http://smoothieware.org
I'll use it on my C-Beam Machine Bundle.