Hey gang. Quick question as I circle ever-closer to actually getting this thing to cut something other than air...

After a few tests, I think I have my Y axis reversed. I'm using TinyG, and when I watch the display in Chillipepper, I realized that the 3D despiction shows the tool going toward the back of the machine - but in reality it's moving toward the front (because the bed is moving back). I'm afraid I've made a stupid mistake due to the X & Z moving typically, but the Y bed moving opposite to get the tool to the front - which is opposite of the way my brain works

Is this something that I need to flip in the basic TinyG setup (I used CoolTemp for setup)? Or is it due to the fact that I used the rear (Y max) limit switch as my homing so that the spindle would be front left for start?

I'm thoroughly confused.

Thanks for any light you can shed on this final darkness I'm having with this build!

 

The easiest thing is to just reverse one pair of wires for the stepper. IE on my steppers I have red, blue, black, green. If I want to reverse the direction I simply swap the red and blue so the new wiring would be blue, red, black, green.

 

Thanks so much for the reply!

You know, I just tried that in the TinyG software to test it out (polarity reverse - thanks Davey!). Now the jogging is moving opposite of the direction I'd assume/want. So if I hit jog Y(-) it moves the bed moves backwards. Y(+) makes the bed move forwards. So this means the spindle is moving to the front of the bed in minus/negative direction. I was under the impression that Y(+) was to the back of the bed (therefore bed forward on the frame.

Maybe being new to the CNC world, I'm married to the traditional thought process here???

If having the Y work in reverse is ok, next up would be figuring out how to make the spindle home itself to the front left corner. After reversing polarity - it's now shooting the spindle to the back to home itself. Should I just consider the back left corner of the bed "home" and call it a day?

EDIT: I got the homing to work the way I figured it should (front left corner). Just need confirmation that having Y(-) is cool for the bed moving back/spindle moving forward. I suppose if it works, it works...right?

Thanks for your patience.

 

I can't believe I missed that. I watched it twice - but I think I stopped short since I was using a different controller. Great video by the way!

I'm fine if this diagram works. Just goes against everything I've known from manual milling (the old point Left hand - fingers like gun trick).

Thanks folks. Appreciate the help.

 

Yep. Saw that - and @Davey Rance had already mentioned trying something different on that part - so it made sense when I saw you all talking about it.

I think I'm going to try my hand at setting up some t-slots, so I'll make the change when I get to that.

 

Does anyone know when the xPRO will be back in stock? Or where can one be purchased in the US (in stock)?

Do you have any other suggestions for places with extremely poor internet signal?

 

That's what I have always been taught. But in this case, the tool is moving opposite on the Y axis (exactly as shown in the drawing @Mark Carew posted).

The other axis are currently working as I've always been accustomed to, and the way you describe above.

 

Thanks David.

Currently, I have changed it using the controller only (polarity reverse in TinyG). I had planned on swapping the wires at some point instead - but you just saved me from having to monkey with those tiny screws

Unfortunately, it still acts reversed, based on the graphic depiction on the Chillipepper jog controls at least. I will try to jog using UGCSender and see if there is a difference. Haven't had a chance to try an air cut yet to see if in fact the machine is at least doing as its told (gcode-wise).

I'm also going to watch the end of @Mark Carew video to see if I'm missing something stupid.

I'm wondering if I've missed something in the tinyG settings that will account for this?

 

I got my C-Beam machine earlier today and went ahead and built it this evening. Very simple build with a great build video to go along with it. Took me about 3-4 hrs with some interruptions. Waiting on my smoothieboard controller to arrive and I can fire it up.

 

Just finished this design for a client, machine is 500x750mm based on the C-Beam Machine, more details, parts list etc. as soon as I get time.

 

possibly obvious, but wasn't to me when i first used the TinyG did you reboot it after changing settings? i monkeyed around with a stepper for ages not realising this the first time i used the tinyg after switching from the smooothieboard.

 

Thanks.

I did reboot. I basically reboot each time I make a change and then double check to make sure that the settings have taken hold

Seems like I am finally getting somewhere. The mechanical side of things have been very smooth. The software....not so much. But as of now - it looks like the darn thing is doing what it's told.

Fixing the plate/bed with bolts, and then I can move on to leveling the bed and first test cuts.

 

Charliex, Motopreserve there is a new firmware ending in 18 for the tinyg that fixes the you have to reboot the tinyg each time you make a firmware change.

Just make sure that you do the save settings in Chillippr or $$ copy and paste before you do it and nuke all of your settings in the firmware update.

 

I think that's the one I'm on. I just still reboot for major changes, because I don't trust it

Got the bed secure with bolts instead of the self-tapping screws. Much more solid now.

 

nice!

 

I personally think you would be fine with a spindle that tops out at 24k RPM - in fact you may find yourself wanting to work more in the lower rpm range that these routers can get to.

I ended up going with the Dewalt 611 - but ultimately I'd like to have a speed controlled spindle that operates at lower rpm for certain materials.

If I were you, I'd plug some numbers into a feed and speed calculator for the tooling/materials you plan on using. I think you'll find that lower rpm is a welcomed addition to the rig.

 

Sorry, I haven't even cut anything yet .

I am confident that it should cut fine for my initial needs (based on @Mark Carew video of milling aluminum). I would just be more comfortable with a spindle that is capable of lower RPM, but that's based on my experience with my vertical mill, which I always operate at a fraction of the speed of this router. I may end up being happy with this setup for quite some time - wouldn't be prudent to judge until I actually get some time with the machine in action.

I'm using the steppers that they sell at the OpenBuilds store. Again, Mark seemed confident that they would handle the basic tasks. I think this setup is looking good for what it is designed for. I think before I spentd too much time/money trying to make it something it's not - I'd probably move on to a second build that is tailor made for what I need, based on my experience with this one and using this machine to make the plates for a larger setup.

 

I confirmed with Mark before I purchased if he thought the 175oz (from store and video) would be an issue - knowing that was the one that came with the bundle. So he was confident at the time. But I can't imagine more would be worse

 

Thank goodness for that Mark... I dont think I would have been able to cut it myself...Thanks...Laurie

 

@Jonatan Rullman One benefit most likely of the water cooled spindle is that you should be able to control the spindle speed in software rather than having to do things like put a stripe on the speed control dial on the top of the router.

So depending on the board that you plan on controlling the unit with that may be a very good thing.

 

+1. This would be very nice to have!

 

Ordered my kit over the weekend. Can't wait for it to arrive!

 

Just got done building mine. The build video was very helpful and went along without a hitch. Seems like a really sturdy machine. I've got a 800w watercooled spindle & vfd that I'll be swapping on and off between my machines. I'm also printing a 65mm to 71mm adapter as I type this. I also designed the acrylic sides a tad shorter to be cut on my laser cutter. Jussst clears the 500mm beam.