I was surprised at the speeds achieved with the petg. I can not get more then 30 on my clone. identical hot ends, only thing different is the stepper. It must have gobs of torque.

 

I had to go open my mouth and say I was happy with my printer. Printed my first asymmetric part, turns out my x axis is mirror. That's going to be fun to chase down.

 

Carl!
I have been working on building the "fan shroud" from ur file in sketchup.
I have dnld it a number of times and apparently each time I did, I got the same one.
Apparently, there is a problem with one. I have been getting some strange messages from sketchup.
Today I dnld both of them and went thru my process on both and it does appear that the one with the fewest views/dnlds does have some problems. It might be good to remove that copy.

 

I can't wrap my head around what u mean by that. Can u explain it? It sounds like it would be a firmware issue not a printer issue. what firmware r u using?

 

Well, I think my build is officially completed. Everything is printed, attached, and working. Just need to do some calibrating. But couldn't wait and just tried printing anyways.

Test print in action:


Closer view of the dual hot ends. Can you guess they are E3Dv6?


Back side of the printer. Used a cable chain to keep the wires to the heated bed organized.


Power/Input panel on the right. Raspberry Pi/Octoprint on the left. Smoothieboard in the case behind the Pi.


Full Graphic Display panel.


Working on learning how to print with the dual extruders. I finally got Smoothieware and Repetier configured right, I think. Did try to print some test objects but the right side extruder is under extruding. Still need to get it calibrated.

 

Got the couplings from http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ67DMA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00. I first tried the ones from a seller by the name of SHINA STORE. They were suppose to fit the 8mm lead screw, but only had a 7.9mm opening. Had some issues trying to return them. Amazon took care of the issue and got my money back.

Here is the cable covers I designed. I print them on end so you don't need support. But if you make them too long, they tend to break off the bed because of the small contact area. 50mm is about the longest I have been able to successfully print them.

 

Oh. And I need to find a better solution for the bed. Just can't get things to work the way I want. Would love to find an aluminum bed I could use.

 

I am using sailfish. My issue is a stepper motor that's wired backwards, or just one pole is wired backwards, or my steppers X Y reversed, or my endstops will need to be switched, or most likely some combination of those four. I think I could just invert my axis in the firmware, but then my endstop will be in the wrong spot. On my printer, 0,0 is not in the middle of the build plate. My XY endstops are MAX while my Z endstop is MIN. This is mightyboard hardware, rememeber my printer is just a big MBI replicator.

Here is a cad render of the part I am trying to produce. Chamber heater for a enclosed Rep1. Notice the location of the vertical vent. It is ofset to the left side of the enclosure, assuming the fan mount is the front.

The part as printed, the hole is on the right side of the case.

 

Your LCD panel mount seems to be reversed versus Carl's which extends over the back side of the extrusion. Did you remix this part or am I just not seeing how it can be assembled this way? With it going off the back my Z arms are in peril of running into it and crushing it.

 

I remixed it because of the z arm crash problem. I can post my mod tonight when I get home if you are interested in it.

 

Yeah definitely would be interested, thanks!

My build could definitely use another 3-5cm of depth on the Y axis to prevent stuff like this and there's a little area of the bed I can't print on because the frame is slightly undersized for the 12" bed.

 

Here is the mod I did. This is a remix of the Pivoting LCD Frame for 20mm Extrusion (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:401244) on Thingiverse. I am including both the stl file and the OpenSCAD file I used to make the changes to.

 

Back to front. I'm not sure everyone needs it or if it is just me. I have 25mm of bed unused on the Y min side (the area closest to the Z bar), but 20mm of that is because the Y endstop sticks out. There's 15mm of extra carriage travel on the Y max side (the area closest to the user) but I can't move the build platform that way any further because my bed attachment mounts are there. I could probably redesign them and get at least half that back. So I think it might be just fine for most people?

Actually, now that I am looking at it, if I moved the extruder to the back of the carriage I could move the build platform back a bit and get very close to the whole bed used. I'm not all that concerned about it because I have this 12"x12" build area and I can get all of it from left to right so losing 25mm isn't a huge deal because I can print what this printer was built for, which is the two halves of object I need at once. Except because I went 12x12 instead of 12x8... I can actually print 2x the two halves at once!

@Elmo Clarity: Thanks for the files, I will print it up and worry no longer about the Z ends crushing things!

 

Hi from Spain!!

Sorry for my grammar and spelling, my english it´s quite small.

Thanks to all for this project, it´s fantastic. This is a love at first sight. I hope to receive all materials in a few days and star the construcction.

I´ve a small prusa i3 steelframe, with E3d V6. All print in PLA, because the ABS it´s very "cruel" with the electronic. The brain parts are a Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4 and a Rasberry Pi 2 to greet the world... In few days, I share the IP.





This it´s my firs mod, add a cooler and a capacitive sensor.




Saludetes
Edu

 

@sorianillo Can you share your stl file for your hot end mount?

 

Yes, you are very fast!!! jajajaja

I´m a computer technician, buy never designe nothing... My first steep, tinkercad for kids, jajajaja. My stl: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5QtiUy0tcXc-fantastic-curcan-gogo/

Ohh, the v-slot it´s comming. The hotend mount has never shot.

Saludetes
Edu

 

Thanks. Just discovered last night that my mount has cracked and needed to be replaced. Yours look really good and I thought I would give it a try.

 

I hope that the flow is sufficient with an 60mm fan for 2 extruders

 

Just to be sure I understand this part, this is just a replacement for the two separate hot end clamps. I still use the standard part that attaches to the v-rail?

 

Yes!, I need convert the small parts in a hard base to suport 1 cooler+ 1 sensor. I only mod this small parts.

 

Wouldn't mind at all. Glad to be able to help out.

 

I would second the need for a few more mm's(maybe 25) in the front to back of this build, I am missing about 10mm of what is my y axis.

On a second more tasty note, I think i made a connection tonight, we'll see if I'm right. I wanted to share the reason that started me down this whole 3d printing rabbit hole in the first place. I am classicly trained french chef, been at it quite some time. If today I was asked what i like to cook i will tell people I'm a slow cooking freak. I have buily my own immersion circulator, PID controlled crock pot, and my favorite tasty tool, the heater meter, an audrino for my charcoal grill. A 3d printed case for this great project I had built was the impetus for buying my CTC clone. After a few years of great service, and knowing there is a thermocouple version of said heatermeter, I decided to go and see about building the new version. Guess who's hosting the github...


Thank you @CapnBry

 

Finally have my C-bot working. Thanks to Eric for getting me started in S3D. I've a bunch of tuning to do. Using S3D tether to the Rumba board, I noticed I have to force continue occasionally. No idea or error to explain why. I'm running E3D V6 at the moment and have a Volcano in the wings. Here's my first torture test using a raft in ABS. I need to work up some juice to get things to stick. Pics to come.

 

Here's the Printer and the Torture Test file I ran.


The Torture Test did not complete. It was at 97% when the firmware stopped responding. Motors run slightly warm All seems good. Thanks to everyone for sharing your builds and experiences.

 

Wow, hey small world, yup that is my project! That is some mighty fine looking BBQ you got there too I am jealous. Is that a brisket flat? It looks so thick. I also bought my 3D printer first to make HeaterMeter parts, and HeaterMeter kit sales paid for the parts to my C-Bot too.

I added a 7-segment LED to my extruder so I could watch the filament pressure without needing to have a computer hooked up.


I'm up to 8mm of retraction with the E3D volcano (0.6mm nozzle) and still getting more blobs than I get on my i3 though. I am thinking about getting rid of the bowden and putting the extruder motor on the carriage. :/ What sort of retraction are you guys running on your bowden C-Bots?