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3D Printer - Big Size

Discussion in '3D printers' started by AK-Creation, Dec 4, 2013.

3D Printer - Big Size

3D Printer - Big Size

Discussion in '3D printers' started by AK-Creation, Dec 4, 2013.

I creat a open source 3D Printer to print big things. Print size: 400x500x300 mm. You can download the Drawing in PDF and in Inventor 2013 format. The unwinding drawings are also included. I take some detail photos for a better understanding.

3D Printer Big Size Open Source drawings
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  1. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    AK-Creation published a new build:

    Read more about this build...
     
    #1 AK-Creation, Dec 4, 2013
  2. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    @AK-Creation What is the largest part you have made on this bad boy!? :)
     
    #2 Mark Carew, Dec 5, 2013
  3. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    My largest part (many weeks) at the 3D Printer are the 3D constuction with the Inventor program. So I´m a mechanic and must learn by doing to construct with 3D. But the most nerf I lose by the connection between print software and the controller board.
     
    #3 AK-Creation, Dec 6, 2013
  4. Jeremy Butler

    Jeremy Butler New
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    Awesome build! I am interested in trying to replicate what you built. Do you have or would you be willing to do an English conversion?
     
    #4 Jeremy Butler, Dec 6, 2013
  5. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Hi Jeremy,
    It´s nice, when you like the building and want to replicate it!
    Yes, we can have a conversation in English. So I can improve my English. That good!!!:)
     
    #5 AK-Creation, Dec 6, 2013
  6. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Hi ADarkGerm,

    the cost are not the probleme! To build bigger, I must get longer V - Slot profile´s, .... the cost increase minimally!
    I want to use the building mainly to print 3D objects. So the most heatbed size are 200x200.
    I will create a heatbed for me with 400x400 mm size.

    So when I have a very big building (1200x1200), I can use only 400x400 printsize.

    But I'm interested to watch your XXXXL Building!:)

    Best greatings
    Andreas
     
    #6 AK-Creation, Jan 4, 2014
  7. Frank Steinhauer

    Frank Steinhauer New
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    Hi Andreas,

    nice build! Can you provide the CAD files (.stp or .igs)? That would be great.
    How much does it cost to import the parts to germany? I´m planing a similar project but i´m not sure what make more sense to import or to source from local suppliers (except the v-slots of course). So far i know there is no german distributor up to now!?
    regards,
    Frank
     
    #7 Frank Steinhauer, Jan 5, 2014
  8. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Hi Frank,

    I have problems to upload the Inventor files to Openbuild, but you can download the complete files at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190995.

    Import the parts to germany:
    Shipping from Openbuild: 97 ,- Eur
    Customs in Germany: 110 ,- Eur

    regards
    Andreas
     
    #8 AK-Creation, Jan 5, 2014
  9. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Heat bed would it not be easier to make the room the correct temperature?
    What about using hair dryers to blow hot air onto the peace near the tool head?

    ADarkGerm[/quote]

    Hi ADarkGerm,

    I heat the Heatbed to 50° up. To heat a room so hot???
    In the sauna would be a good idea, so you can sweat and print at the same time.:D
     
    #9 AK-Creation, Jan 5, 2014
  10. Torodd Indersund

    Torodd Indersund New
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    Hello, AK-Creations
    Nice build mate.. but can you please give me a hint here? I don't get the files (downloaded from thingivers) to load properly.. it seems that all bolts and nuts are missing pluss the bearings and fasteners... do you know why? is this because you might have a german inventor?
     
    #10 Torodd Indersund, Feb 12, 2014
  11. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Hello Torodd,
    thank you for your response!
    This is the first time, that I upload a complete Inventor drawing. Today I learn, that I must "Pack and go" the drawing, when I will that all parts be included (bearings, screws ..... and so).
    So I update by Thingiverse the "3D Printer - Drucker (Inventor 2013) - New 1" file.
    So you can download the file again and test it. (Folder: "Workgroups\NotInProject\3D Drucker").

    Please give me a feedback.
     
    #11 AK-Creation, Feb 13, 2014
  12. Torodd Indersund

    Torodd Indersund New
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    This seems much better, but still the bolts for the motors and the fasteners for the wheels are missing.. however this is a really nice build model
     
    #12 Torodd Indersund, Feb 14, 2014
  13. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Thank you for your feedback Torodd!

    My Pc performance is not so good, so I don´t inclued all screws, nuts ... etc. in the model.
     
    #13 AK-Creation, Feb 14, 2014
  14. Chrisko90

    Chrisko90 New
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    Hey,
    nice build!!
    Which software you use to build 3D Models and convert them to G-Code?
    Thank you!! :)
     
    #14 Chrisko90, Apr 21, 2014
  15. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Hi Chrisko90,
    I use "Invertor 2013" to create my 3d Models, and save it as STL File.

    I use for my printer a "Echinius controler board" (http://www.echinus.org/), that achieved the best results with Printrun (https://github.com/kliment/Printrun).
    But the better program is "Repetier Host" (http://www.repetier.com/download/).
    "Repetier Host " cooperate not so good with the "Echinius controlerboard" (Version 0.90C), this is a "old" Version.
    Download today is a Version 0.95F - work better???

    I use both programs!
    "Printrun" to create the G - Code (from a STL File) and Print.
    "Repetier Host" to watch the G - Code, make changes and watch the G - Code 3D Model.
     
    #15 AK-Creation, Apr 22, 2014
  16. Mark Carew

    Mark Carew OpenBuilds Team
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    That's a shame because it looks like it would be a great board to use. Thanks for this info and link @AK-Creation
     
    #16 Mark Carew, Apr 25, 2014
  17. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    In the next time, I will update the controller board and download the newest "Repetier Host" version.
    Behind a test of this both, I write a report and post him here.
     
    #17 AK-Creation, Apr 26, 2014
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  18. Chrisko90

    Chrisko90 New
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    Thank you for your info!
    I have another question..
    how big is your pipe cross-section of the cable for the motors and the heating bed? Did you use more than 0,75mm²? or would you recommend a larger cross-section?
    Thank you!! :)
     
    #18 Chrisko90, May 7, 2014
  19. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Hi Chisko90,
    I use shielded motor cable 4 x 0,5 mm². The heating bed I bought finished. It has a cable cross section of 0.5 mm². For the extruderheater I use cable cross section of 1 mm².
     
    #19 AK-Creation, May 7, 2014
  20. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    #20 AK-Creation, Jul 24, 2014
  21. belacesta

    belacesta New
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    Hi,
    I am new on this site and I am building 3d printer based on your construction. I would like to know if you have some problems with motors connected on the same output (x, y axes) because output current is only 1.5A? Your working table is very large, how will you heat it up? Do you think that multiple heated beds, 4pcs 200mmx200mm, covered by glass will be OK?
     
    #21 belacesta, Aug 12, 2014
  22. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Hi belacesta, be welcome on this site!
    No, I have no problems with two motors at one output. The printer work flawless.
    The 1,5A were split to each 0,75A per motor. The force were be also split per motor.
    But the performance from the two motors is the same as from one motor per axis.

    At the moment I use only a 200x200mm heatbed. Have no time to create a bigger one. But your Idee with 4pcs are good. That need a seperated controller board to heating up.
     
    #22 AK-Creation, Aug 12, 2014
  23. belacesta

    belacesta New
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    Great to hear that, because your work is really awesome!
    My build is going very slow. I am working with screws and LM guides. They are expensive and I am looking for low prices, but I am not in hurry.
    How are you satisfied with hot end and extruder?
    Hope I am not bothering you with my questions!?
     
    #23 belacesta, Aug 13, 2014
  24. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    "Hope I am not bothering you with my questions!?"
    --> No way, that what I know, I know it from other People. So we share here our knowing.

    My Z Axis work also with M8 threaded rod and it´s really to slow. Next time I would use "8mm Metric Lead Screw" from Open Build (http://openbuildspartstore.com/8mm-metric-lead-screw-acme/)

    For my next 3D Printer Projekt, I would test a other Extruder.
    This Extruder have o Long pipe and when it stop to print and move to other place, the PLA flows nevertheless. I make some test with Software Setting (retraction) and so, but it is not easy to print Details exactly (It is possible to make it better).
     
    #24 AK-Creation, Aug 13, 2014
  25. belacesta

    belacesta New
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    #25 belacesta, Aug 13, 2014
  26. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    Why do you will use "ball srews"? There are expensive. For a mill ok!?? But for a printer? The "8mm Metric Lead Screw" (from Open Build) moves 8mm pre one rotation. I think fast enough!
    The Extruder look good. But I dont know enough about Extruder to give you a hint.
     
    #26 AK-Creation, Aug 13, 2014
  27. belacesta

    belacesta New
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    I will get two screws with ballnut with machined ends for 70 eur, it seems to be a good price.
    Maybe 8mm Metric Lead Screw would be better choice, faster and cheaper!?
    I will buy that extruder and then we will see.
     
    #27 belacesta, Aug 13, 2014
  28. AK-Creation

    AK-Creation Well-Known
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    " I am building 3d printer based on your construction"
    --> The lower endstop from Z axis can be better. It is heavy to adjust it at 0.1 mm. For 3d printing is this important to make easy and fast this adjustment. By my next creation I will find a better solution. But you can make it now better.
     
    #28 AK-Creation, Aug 15, 2014
  29. belacesta

    belacesta New
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    "The lower endstop from Z axis can be better. It is heavy to adjust it at 0.1 mm."
    Do you mean adjusting to the heated bed? If so, maybe it is possible solve this problem with probe or micro switch beside the head, which touches three corners of working plate and do the reference.
     
    #29 belacesta, Aug 15, 2014
  30. belacesta

    belacesta New
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    G29-G32: Bed probing
    G29 Detailed Z-Probe

    probes the bed at 3 points.

    G30 Single Z Probe

    In its simplest form probes bed at current XY location.

    Some implementations allow more general behaviour: if a Pn field is specified the probed X, Y, and Z values are saved as point n on the bed for calculating the offset plane. Generally n is 0, 1, or 2. If X, or Y, or Z values are specified (e.g. G30 P1 X20 Y50 Z0.3) then those values are used instead of the machine's current coordinates. A silly Z value (less than -9999.0) causes the machine to probe at the current point to get Z, rather than using the given value. If an S field is specfied (e.g. G30 P1 Z0.3 S) the bed plane is computed for compensation and stored. The combination of these options allows for the machine to be moved to points using G1 commands, and then probe the bed, or for the user to position the nozzle interactively and use those coordinates. The user can also record those values and place them in a setup GCode file for automatic execution.

    G31 Report Current Probe status

    When used on its own this reports whether the Z probe is triggered, or gives the Z probe value in some units if the probe generates height values. If combined with a Z and P field (example: G31 P312 Z0.7) this will set the Z height to 0.7mm when the Z-probe value reaches 312 when a G28 Z0 (zero Z axis) command is sent. The machine will then move a further -0.7mm in Z to place itself at Z = 0. This allows non-contact measuring probes to approach but not touch the bed, and for the gap left to be allowed for. If the probe is a touch probe and generates a simple 0/1 off/on signal, then G31 Z0.7 will tell the RepRap machine that it is at a height of 0.7mm when the probe is triggered.

    In Duet-dc42 firmware, separate G31 parameters may be defined for probe types 0, 1/2, and 3 (probe types 1 and 2 share the same set of parameters). To specify which probe you are setting parameters for, send a M558 command to select the probe type before the G31 command.

    Duet-dc42 firmware supports additional parameters S (bed temperature in degC at which the specified Z parameter is correct, default is current bed temperature), and C (temperature coefficient of Z parameter in mm/degC, default zero). This is useful for ultrasonic and other probes that are affected by temperature

    G32 Probe Z and calculate Z plane

    probes the bed at 3 or 4 pre-defined points (see M557) and updates transformation matrix for bed leveling compensation.


    .... but i cant find that G codes except G30 for home in Echinus V1.7a G-code manuals
     
    #30 belacesta, Aug 15, 2014
    AK-Creation likes this.
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