I may lack some general workshop skills, or discipline, I am NOT much of a "mechanical guy".

I haven't had much confidence that the general system of tee nuts and cast corners is good at pulling things together "tight and square" - lack of which will probably show at some point.
Perhaps I'm over thinking this, or maybe some of you have a "feel" for just setting them in a tiny bit from the end of a section to make joints to tighten up square automagically ?

Today I came across this;

{I like it}
It may be proprietary, but it seems like an open source design could be developed that wouldn't infringe.

I got so impatient with the tabs that I filed ALL of them off of ALL the corners.
Whatever you do with them they still don't pull anything together, at best they merely HOLD things together and only the face or two where they are used.
I am NOT confident that setting cast corners a thou or so in from the end in order to get a bit of "pull in" won't cause distortion, in fact I think it will distort things.
The MayTec solution applies a more CENTERED pulling force and it remains after assembly is completed.

BTW, I am currently in US and have bought my parts directly from openbuilds.
My input is directed generally at the system of connecting aluminum extrusions, not at a supplier distributor or agent.

 

clamping the parts together helps, put the screws in loose, tighten up the upright one then the bottom one

I have just rebuilt mine as I wasn't happy with it, not long done my first cut with it apart from me setting the z to low - its 99.9% in tolerance

have a look at some of the T rail systems for ideas

Reason for the location is there in the US you have far more options than the UK

 

the maytec looks like it'd also need the cuts to be square as well. a machinists square and some tee hole joining plates will help square it a lot, or some larger 90o angle brackets. which doesn't rely on the end's being cut completely square.

 

There is no mention of size/scale on the site that I found the video on, though the suspended car suggests something.
Some other searches indicated that MayTec is sold in Australia and Germany, also that one of their lines has a 16mm standard thickness.
I'm looking at other extrusions and connectors, but of course that is only ONE part of a build.
Wheels, etc all have to fit on.

 

Great build @Mark Carew !!! I built mine with some spare extrusions and am working on getting all the cutting supplies ready. I was wondering if you had a link for the 2 flute end mill you use to do your cuts? Thanks in advance and happy cutting!!!

 

Hi guys, I just received my c-beam kit today from Ryan in the U.K. The kit came really well packaged and in good order i'm really looking forwards to building it up and watching it 'come alive'. I don't usually join forums for lack of experience with them, then again I have no experience with cnc either! so, i'm hoping if I get stuck with something you guys will be kind enough to give me a few pointers. I have virtually no idea what i'll be using the cnc for, I'm a woodworker but i dabble with metal also so the cutting aluminium parts I would like to try. Its good to meet everyone here, long may the group expand and continue!

 

I started tinkering tonight putting bits together, seems easy enough, i'll attempt to post a couple of pictures here and see what happens

 

thanks Ryan and Joe, I'm not sure if i posted messages and pictures in the wrong place here, if I do something wrong please let me know and ill do my best to correct it, at least i know now 2 people can see my posts and i'm not talking to myself

 

Do your lead screws move properly to the end of the travel ?? it looks a well packaged kit

 

Hi Flash, yes i think everythings adjusted properly, i 'm just going by 'feel', i'll find out once its all together. The packaging and labeling is superb, everything seperated into packaging for each part of the build, im chuft because its making my job a lot easier. I have done another wee bit of the build today as you can see in these pictures

 

going shopping for some m.d.f now then ill cut my 1 foot by 1 foot squares on the band saw and get some more of the build done tonight if nothing else crops up. still waiting on power supply from ebay.

 

well guys, i got some more done last night so ill post another picture......

 

Looking very good! Keep up the progress.

 

Hi Motopreserve, Thanks!

The kit is complete to the best of my ability, I have ordered the bling and other parts then ill need to sort the electrics and software. Ohh i still need to figure out what router/spindle to use! Quite a simple little starter cnc kit to put together thanks to the packaging with labels etc and of course the video.

 

Hi guys, I've read this whole thread twice and watched everything I can find on this machine. I'm interested in making multirotor frames and other stuff around the shop that my I3v printer can't handle.

This machine seems to fit the bill. I'd ask what is the most user friendly control setup, as I'm not a wizard with programming. I probably need to do more of my own research.

What I do want to ask is this: Can you extend the y axis by simply swapping in the 1000mm c-beam actuator? It seems like you'd then have 13.5 by about 24 working space. Would any other parts need to be changed?

I also wonder if I should pursue the 400w spindles. Are they really quieter? Any disadvantages?

 

Welcome aboard! I've been cutting multirotor frames with this machine already. Works well as long as the work area is sufficient for you.

I've been keeping it stock size for now, but may look into extending it a bit down the road.

 

Hello,

I would like to ask which changes should be made to make the machine taller.
I'm a total beginner into this. C-beam machine looks great, only problem seems to be the z axis. 6" sounds great if possible.

Thanks

 

I personally think the design is built smaller to keep the strength, any bigger might require a few modifications, i suppose its down to what its going to be used for and how hard its going to be worked.

 

I want to make it a multipurpose machine so might introduce a laser ect ect later on but i have to familiarize myself with software before that.

 

I can totally understand that. I need an all purpose cnc though, not just a plate maker, while actually rarely in need of a platemaker. I guess c-beam wouldn't work then. =\

 

Thanks for the replies. Shugster, that thing looks terrifying, of which I approve. I'm a certified aircraft mechanic which means I'll never fly on copters. Have you got video of you flying that thing?

I intend not to work it that hard, and understand enlarging comes with certain issues. However, since the x rail is stationary, enlarging the y merely means a longer table. A little heavier, maybe, but makes no difference to the are where the cut is actually happening. Unlike the z question above- lengthening that will definitely introduce flex.

I honestly think lengthening the y is better than that sketchup of the doubly y/wider x thing I've seen- and it looks like it would only require that you get the longer actuator setup. Correct me if I've got my axes confused.

I'm pretty close to ordering one of these if I can figure out exactly what I want and what controller to use. I'm very good mechanically but needed help to set up my 3d printer's control stuff.

 

I'm looking forwards to learning from others modification and experiences with the c beam, its a cheap affordable introduction to cnc which we can modify and change over time as our experience grows.

 

I have been playing with v carve pro, its not cheap but it might make things easier for a novas like myself, they have a trial version.

 

couple of things i noticed on the c beam, the aluminium plate the mdf sits on is quite thin, also the holes on the outside edges that we have to drill out are too close to the edge, i opted for bolts instead of the screw, there are 8 of them so it will be secure enough anyway. the rest of the build went smooth.

 

Is there a file for the build plate available somewhere?

 

that's the one. if the plate was an extra 6mm overall it would have better. i'm not complaining at all just making an observation

 

I just thought i'd mention... on the m.d.f sacrificial board i sprayed it with clear lacquer encase i'm going to use double sided tape to hold anything down, it should work better with that.