Interesting you might not get the full range of motion with multiple magnets, you'd need to play with the angle of the steel ball. It also depend on how long your arms are, with longer arms the angle at the furthest point is higher and the motion across the steel ball is less.

But I like the idea.

 

Getting the base part of my printer designed out and wired and looking at what will be next - the bed. I have a heated plate purchased already and looking at how best to mount it. I have some ideas, but one question is should I also be looking at a way to level it? I will be using a Z-Probe (Mini IR sensor) and Duet controller. Will the probing be enough if the bed is already pretty level? Should I put a leveling system on just in case? How are you dealing with your bed?

 

I don't have a bed leveling system on my Rostock, and I don't plan to have on on my delta-six. get the bed as square to the vertical bars as possible, and then let your probe do it's thing. I do extensive calibrations using calipers to get withing 90% of the height across the bed (your probe does this automatically for you).

 

I decided to build my delta based on this design, but changing the horizontals to the 3/4" EMT & the verticals to 2060's. The horizontals are currently 500mm in length. I used a pipe cutter & jig to cut them all to the same length. I will start a new build here once I have the vertices the way I want them. Here are some photos of my progress. The bottom vertex is taking about 15 and half hours (9.6oz) & I have 2 more of those to print. The top parts only took about 5 and a half hours each (3.7oz). I am designing some EMT connectors for different mounting options. I started to make the vertex parts with one screw to tighten it in, but realized it would be difficult to assemble all 3 sides in this way. I changed it to clamp it with 2 bolts thru the center of each end of the pipe. I made a jig for the pipe (shown in last photo) to make it easy to drill the holes in just the right place using my drill press. I tried just using a drill, but was off more than I would have liked. With the drill press they came out almost perfect. I am using slot holes on the motor mounts to tension the belt instead of at the top.

 

Justin, where can I find the print files for this belt capturing part? I need these, they're perfect!

 

Where'd you get the carbon rods?

 

After a long hiatus (f*ck you, cancer!) I am starting back up with my Δ6 build again.

I've got my frame completely put together, the carriages are installed as well as the motors and idlers. I've got my carbon fiber rods ordered as well as a a 24v power supply.

I'm getting to the point where I have to start considering the electronics. What does everyone recommend for a motor controller board? I'd like this to be a unit that can print without a computer attached - from either WiFi, USB or SD Card. I have no idea what to use, and would really appreciate some guidance in this area.

 

32 bit minimum for the processor on the controller. While you can run a RAMPS at 24, it takes some work. I am going with a Duet v0.8.5 board (Duet v0.8.5). About $150 with shipping to the US. It has a really nice web interface built in that gives OctoPrint a run for it's money. I was going to put an Raspberry Pi on my printer to run OctoPrint, but after seeing what came on the Duet, decided I didn't need to. I also have (had) a Smoothieboard on a CoreXY I am building. While the hardware looks pretty good, I have not been impressed with the firmware, nor the support for it. I have replaced it with a RAMPS for the time being until I can get another Duet.

 

Hey Elmo, thanks for the reply - but you're a little too fine grained for my current knowledge. Your whole reply pretty much went right over my head. I have no idea what a RAMPS is (looking that up now) or OctoPrint... you see what I mean?

I really need a resource where I can learn from a high level what the printer needs as far as power, controllers, fans, switches, what module plugs into where and which software works well with a particular board. What are the configurations required, what are the options, and how they're implemented. I've just started looking into the electronics aspect, so I'm completely ignorant here.

 

Info on available controller boards: List of electronics - RepRapWiki
The link also lists which firmware will work with each controller.

Any controller board based on the Arduino Mega, like RAMPS, Rumba, Rambo, is old technology and doesn't have the compute power for running a delta printer. While they can do it, they sacrifice speed/quality in the process.

As for the other items. You will need 3 endstops. There are lots of options but simple mechanical ones seem to work just fine. These are some I ordered from Amazon and they have worked fine for me: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDFBLJW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Fans. You will probably want some fans to cool the part when you are printing. What you use will depend on the effector you use. Look for one that has mounts for part fans on them.

You will also need a hot end. The E3D v6 are very popular. Those are the ones I use. E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit 1.75mm Universal (with Bowden add-on) (12v) and All-metal E3D (v6) Hotend | Filastruder are a couple of good places to order from. I have used both these places and have been very happy with the service from both.

Does that help any?

 

Can you tell me the dimensions of those endstops with the circuit boards? I want to see how they will fit in my design. I was planning to use just some simple endstops, but those seem like they would be easier to mount with no soldering required. I found some on ebay that show a dimension of 32mm x10mm. Is that the same for that one?

 

The boards are roughly 40mm x 16mm. All the endstops of this style are pretty much the same for mounting holes and parts placements. As far as I can tell, they are all built from the same design. I am including a STL file of an endstop mount that I have used with these. I have replaced all the CD Audio connectors on the units I use with Molex KK style connectors.

 

I was just looking at the lengths of the cables for these endstops & looks like they are too short for my 1 meter tall delta. Can you get these cables in longer lengths or would I need to make up my own? Looks like I need 140cm lengths instead of the 70cm lengths which seems to be the standard. Do you have a link to the plugs I would need if I make my own. Thanks for the stl file. I will take a look at that.

 

Here is an interesting housing that looks like it will fit that endstop. Mechanical endstop v1.2 Housing by green_domingo

 

Looks like it will work, but seems to be a bit of over kill.

These are the connectors that I use...
Male connector: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0022057048/WM2786-ND/2405485
Female connector: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0022011042/WM2022-ND/403290
Pins for Female connector: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0008500114/WM1114-ND/26475

I make my own cables using 3 or 4 conductor cables. That keeps all the wires nice and neat.

 

Thanks, Elmo, that helps a TON!

 

Thanks for the links. I will add those links to my delta links for reference when I get to the electronics.

 

Tridprinting

 

Still have a lot of work until my CNC is cutting, so I decided to print my carriages (should make them much lighter). Here are the prototypes I'm printing for the dry fitting:



The carriage is set to use threaded steal balls and bolts.

EDIT:
The spacing of the steal balls is set to ~48.15mm to be used with the effector I posted previously. I also updated the models to accommodate the eccentric spacers. Once I verify/update it to have the proper sizing I'll add the stl and project files.

 

I uploaded this part to thingiverse I mentioned in an earlier message using 3 magnets instead of 1 on the delta arms:
Three Magnet Connector for Delta Printer Arms by GeoDave

 

Interesting, I'll have to print this and mess around with it. I'm curious if the 3 magnets creates more friction on the steel ball than a plastic cup. The one's I've been printing have ~0.25mm gap between the steel ball and the magnet.

 

I made the plastic ball more for testing than using in real situation. I was planning to use something like steel ball bearings if I implemented this. When attaching the magnets, you might want to have their magnetic poles in the same direction for consistency. It does not seem to keep any of the three from connecting to a steel bolt head.

 

Final version ,the fit is really nice. I've countersunk the screw caps so they don't interfere with the magnetic arms. I've attached a zip with the stl and project files.

Edit:
Updated models a few posts down

 

So I updated my carriage to have a better belt clamp, it's a self locking mechanism I got from some random carriage on thingiverse. Unfortunately I can't get the things to align properly, one set is too loose and the next is too tight. I might need to ask someone to cut out some fancy aluminum ones

 

Delta Build Plate Support.

I figured I needed some sort of support for the build plate on the delta I am building, so I came up with a parametric build plate Parametric Build Plate Support for Delta Printer by GeoDave
Let me know if there is a better way to do this, but seems like this idea will work well for me.

I attached a photo of what this looks like attached to the top of my printer. I put it on the top to photograph it easier. My design is currently using 500mm length 3/4" EMT.

 

Figured out the spacing problem with the printed carriages. My countersink for the screw caps didn't allow for the movement of the essenctric spacer. I simply increased the size and they fit perfectly. I've attached the model and cad file for whomever wishes to play with it.

I also completely redesigned and modeled the effector I posted a ways back. I updated the fan mounts to use nut and bolt, and added an inductive sensor mount for auto calibration. Once I have working prototypes I'll post the models for those as well.

 

Hello Guys

I’m new to the forum and bin enjoying reading your posts.
I’m planning on building my own 1500 mm tall delta printer and a have a question.
Does anybody know of a delta design where the 20 mm side of the 2040 extrusions is facing the center of the printer instead of the 40 mm side as I’m seeing on the design showed here?

Thanks

 

I have seen a lot of designs that use 2020 extrusions which has a 20mm facing the center. Is there something specific you are looking for/at that requires the 20mm width?

 

Not in particular, it just seems to be a more well balanced and sturdier design, although this is only an assumption I have.
To determine if I’m correct I’m trying to find a build with this characteristic and see if there is a mention of added benefits of that configuration or not.

 

I wouldn't expect a 2040 turned with the 20 side to the middle would have any more strength in regard to torquing of the frame. It would support more weight, but weight isn't all that much. The higher the frame, torque is going to be a greater issue.