I meant this I was looking at the wrong kit but the right kit ( http://openbuildspartstore.com/c-beam-linear-actuator-bundle/ ) is $99.95 per leg (so 100 per leg) without a motor (I never quoted a motor because this design has no need of them).
Added some cable carrier track for all Axis. made some sizing adjustments to try and keep pieces at 500mm or less.
Thoughts on this Z belt config red Nema 17s with 20 tooth Pulley Green Idlers Blue 40 Tooth Pulley on ACME screw I like having two 17s working togethor. No sync issues with it sharing one belt.
Biggest drawback (a dirty little secret as well) to the Prusa et. al. style double Z motor printers is they share the same single motor controller and will never stay in 100% sync. I hate the double Z motor for those printers so how would this double motors sharing the same controller never lose sync as well? If the belt is to keep them insync I would think the gear would eventually slip under the belt or cause excessive wear to the belt as the out of sync condition worsens.
well the belt will help keep them in sync. but really the reason to have too is to reduce load on each.. vs having 1 Nema 23. if one nema 17 skips it will still be in sync. it wont slip
I would still prefer one Nema 23 over two motors (Nema 17 in this case) sharing the same motor controller. In a feedback type loop system using two controllers (one for each motor) then two smaller motors would be fine.
I still dont see why its not a good idea. so im still going with it until I can get more facts. before i switch to a single geared 17 or a nema 23 if one of the two 17's is slightly out of sync. it will simply skip a step to get back in sync. this will likely not happen very often. Im not concerned about belt wear. from my experience GT2 Belts are very durable. and also inexpensive to replace Once I build this unit. I will know. I can test all three configs. I have spare steppers updated design posted
Your build so good luck but please do report back after you have a year's worth of daily printing on it to let us know how it went because if you have to tweak it every so often it is a sign that config didn't work out. Single motors barely, if ever, need to be retweaked but so many Prusa I3 owners (see their posts all over the net) simply take it as a ritual that they have to tweak Z before a print or at the start of the day and that is due to that 2 motor sharing one controller nonsense. This two sharing one on the same belt I am unsure what it would do but I doubt good.
I do have a Prusa I3. I end up adjusting the Z every few months and I print 1-2 per week. I do wish the two Z motors were held in sync by a belt. But yes I will post a report on how the end results added up. Im also not worried about admitting im wrong and switching to a single motor.
Hey, try it and if it works without any adverse effects then heck yeah I am all for it but I am seriously wondering how it would work without those adverse effects since the motors do lose sync and if left untouched soon enough get pretty badly out of sync. Why Josef didn't just design one motor with a belt for both Z axis instead of two motors I don't know. First bad thing is that on a Ramps one motor can take full power it can safely give out but using two motors means I had to lower the ramps Z channel to about half of what X and Y are taking. It is barely enough to keep the Z motors from stalling since they are sharing the current.
with my current build. I have to atleast for now settle on two Z motors, I could not find a looped GT2 6mm belt that was 2 meters long
Going well so far. got the main assembly complete. just starting to wire it up and test movement. so far having trouble getting the rumba to be controllable from my PC no issue with updating firmware but i cant control it from the pc for some strange reason which is annoying.
DAMMMMM, its really nice. If you cant connect to the rumba there something using the port. Could be Aurduine IDE still connected. Come on i want to see it in action
I have a MakerFarm iv3 12" and it has been great to me so far. Other than the dual motor z-axis can you share what you dislike about it? I love the design of your Hulk-XY, thank you for sharing. I will be following this one closely and perhaps building it one day.
What are you going to use for your base? My printer is DoA for almost 2 years now as I barely got any printing on it but over 2-3k hours of tweaking then finally trying to get it to work at all due to MK2Bs from hell (mine is bent, literally, like an upside down taco shell) and everything I have purchased for my base/bed comes to me bent/warped so I have to return it for a refund. I suspect it is the horrible USPS and UPS doing it to me. So, a great printer if you can get it to lay down the first layer correctly otherwise it is a pile of junk. My printer is/was an I3 Rework and with any printer that has a moving Y like the Prusa models do if I go to something like a Mic-6 then add on a flexible heater (like a silicone one) the weight is about 3 pounds and I am just not sure the 8mm harden chrome rods, and the Nema 17 motors, could handle that much weight for hours upon hours of printing. I like your design (except for the dual motors but I understand) but is your bed/base stationary or does it go up and down? I think I see it goes up and down which is better than side to side like a Prusa. Having tools that can handle a 3.5mm counter sunk hole into a 1/4in (ugh, 6.35mm thick) tool plate is not easy as a standard drill press most people have wouldn't handle the 3.5mm very well.
bed is completely stationary. Gantry does XY and moves up and down. Once i add my bed. it will be a 1/8" alum plate with silicone heater underneath, + glass on top + PEI surface on top of the glass. MIC-6 is more expensive then Boroglass, costs be $80 for a 1/4" piece of MIC6 thats 13" x 13"
i tried a 2nd machine. arduino ide isnt running. still cant get simplify3d or pronterface to connect to it. not sure whats up
Cast Aluminum Tool & Jig Plate | Midwest Steel & Aluminum and is just the blank (I once did some research and it was flatter than Mic-6) Cast Aluminum Tool & Jig Plate 13.0000 13.0000 weight: 4.2673 # Price: $26.08 Shipping to me was about 12 dollars.
I figured with those prices you weren't in the US. Those people are the least expensive I have found even in the USA. Wish I lived close by I would get free shipping because I order it and drive by and pick it up then I would know if it was bent who did it, lol.
Adam, do you have any other means of communication? Maybe hangouts? I want to help you troubleshoot your issue with the board
That is absolutely beautiful. I'm in the process of building a CoreXY printer based on a different design, and one thing that I didn't think about until already in the process was the lack of a stationary bed.
Yeah, a stationary bed is a HUGE game changer imo. Goes like this: Stationary, Elevator, Front to Back in order of how good it is for your prints from less ringing to being able to print taller prints (taller prints with a front to back moving bed is a no-no or a go really slowly because you could simply jerk it off. That sounded bad but really it does jerk back and forth and the print can snap loose and fall over as a lot of people have found out with tall prints. The only recourse is to slow down and/or use a big brim.).