When assembling your E3D hotend you want to keep the black collet that retains the ptfe tubing. However instead of cutting the ptfe flush with the top of the black collet leave some extra. This extra ptfe will go inside the printed extruder body to meet with the hobbed bolt. You may need to drill out and counter sink this area of the extruder body depending on your print quality to allow room for the ptfe and black collet so your hot end sits flush.

This is not at all necessary, I have one with it and one without. How ever it does make filament changes much easier and I recommend it. Here is a cutaway photo example from E3D's website giving you a idea of how it should look.

 

I added the ptfe as a after thought so I already had the hotend installed. When I decided to install a length of ptfe tube I did it from the top down into the hotend with the hobbed bolt removed. I have not tried installing the hot end with the ptfe tube pre installed from the bottom. I can try and grab some pics tomorrow.

 

mgcrose, Here is a short video showing how I went about it.

 

Here are the new stl and skp files for the extruder main body with the enlarged filament ptfe tube hole. Increased in size to just over 4mm, This should allow for a nice fit for the ptfe tube to be installed.

 

I will have some real world numbers for you very soon, Work has kept me away from the house more then I like over the last few months. However rest assured I have not abandoned this build or the community here at openbuilds. I will be diving back into my builds and posting updates more regularly as soon as this current job is finished... Fingers crossed only another week or two..

Given the difference in screw specs, I know it will not be a direct comparison... I am comfortably printing with my Fina build at 80mm - 100mm/s depending on print with out pushing it. You can check out my Fina build and the Lautr3k build for screw specs and photos of prints I have done with that printer.

 

Scaling it up to have a wider and taller build area should not be a problem. Mgcrose did just that on page two for a full 305x305x305 build volume..

While my intentions for this build are to use all openbuild parts, including leadscrews and nuts.
It would not be to hard to adapt the tr8x20 leadscrews. New nut mounting plates would need to be drawn up. Or custom nuts made to match the OB units. I believe Gumpwa Luong and a few others have used that exact screw on there lautr3k builds with successes..

@Mark Carew, is the nut block available untapped? That would allow the builder to adapt screws like a 8x1mm for z axis or the above tr8x20 for x/y depending on their needs without having to change mounting plates for the nut. They could tap to suit..

@Gumpwa Luong , Could you chime in? What are you thoughts and experiences with the tr8x20 lead screw setup on your lautr3k?

 

No problem, I am happy to help. The community is a great resource and I myself have learned so much with each step and question. Everyone has always been so helpful to me I like to try and do the same.

You are correct it is indeed a 8mm diameter screw. What differs between the open builds tr8x8 screw and the robotdigg tr8x20 screw is the lead, pitch and starts.

openbuild screw.
tr8x8-2p = 8mm dia with a 8mm lead 2mm pitch

robotdigg screw.
tr8x20-2.5p = 8mm dia with a 20mm lead 2.5mm pitch

The robotdigg lead screw will travel 20mm per one full revolution and the openbuilds lead screw will travel 8mm for every one revolution.

While they are both 8mm lead screws they have a different number of starts and a diffrent number of tpi. So the openbuild nut I have designed around can not be used with the robotdigg lead screw.

However, like I was asking Mark. If the Openbuilds nut block could be purchased untapped given they are both 8mm lead screws. You could buy the appropriate tap and cut the thread to match any screw you wanted. Depending on the cost of the tap needed going this route for a single build may not be ideal.

In that case redesigning the two nut mounting plates for x and y axis to accept the robotdigg leadscrew nut. Would be a cheaper solution.

 

Oh I look forward to what could be done with the addition of rack and pinion to the line up..

Okay I am back to working on Adamantine, sorry for the hold up guys work has been crazy with me away from home for most of it. Now I am back in town and on night shift for a guy a few miles from my house, so I have my days to work on projects.

Placed a ebay order for a few things I still had to pick up. Here is a list (more of a self reminder ) of what still needs done.

-Filament spool mount
--draw up mount
--print and bolt up mount

-Mount heat bed
--cork
--springs
--glass build plate

-Mount Power supply and Ramps
--route wires
--clean up and shorten wiring

-Update and finalize sketchup model
-Finalize marlin and upload sketch

That is most of it, It is really not to far from printing, I have it set up next to my c-beam machine build in my new work space. ( aka: I have spread to another spare room.. hahaha )
I really look forward to getting the cnc up and running and cutting the plates for this... It is going to be a lot of learning which is a 90% of the fun for me...

I have had a couple of good ideas sent in via pm/email. So not right away but a V2 will also be arriving with.
-option to use the Anti-backlash nuts ( they do not currently fit my x-axis plate )
-Single z-axis motor driving both z leadscrews via a closed loop belt
-8mm x 1mm single start z-axis leadscrews
-32bit controller

 

It is printing well!! I just need to do final clean up, wire routing and electronics mounting. I will update with a current progress post then..

Parts I still have two ebay orders inbound ( misc. wiring some bearings ect. "Build Clean Up" parts ). But thought it appropriate my Pi's arrived on "Pi" day! One of them will run Adamantine. I am still working away on this printer slowly but surely not much more I can do in tell the last of my parts arrive I am afraid. I hate waiting lol

 

Thanks. I agree. Nothing like a crazy schedule to throw everything out of wack. Getting everything back on track though.

Tonight I started to make the replacement parts for Adamantine now I have the C-beam.. One part down several to go

 

It was finished and the parts I kept became other builds. The aluminum plates sit in my closet waiting for me to build the next iteration.

Not sure when I will get back to it. A lot of the updated cad files I modeled have been lost when my site was wiped. Notice a lot of missing images in this build? They were lost at the same time. I am still recoiling from the lost data I stored on my website. Luckily all of the original files were posted to the files tab. So not all has been lost.

Also check out the lautr3k build another awesome lead screw driven printer..